More on Yangon

And this post takes us back to life in Yangon!

Secondary school faculty - I'm in the back shady spot wearing my sunglasses!

One annual event in my life is traveling to Bangkok for my visa renewal. Yes, I have to visit the Myanmar embassy in Bangkok, Thailand in order to renew my Myanmar work visa... The good news about this yearly errand is that I get a trip to Bangkok! I usually shop, seek out health food stores for hard to find items, take care of doctor appointments, eat great food and sometimes sit by a pool, if time allows! This year was special because my former colleague, J, who now lives in Chiang Mai, Thailand, met me. It was so fun to catch up, do yoga and discover a great new health food store and restaurant, Lemon Farm, together. We weren't very good about taking pictures (we were having too much fun) and Bangkok isn't "new" to me anymore, so I guess I forget, but here is what captured my interest enough to pull out the camera.

My iced Americano, with a dash of rice milk, served in a pitcher! 

The cafe had cute cat art. Can you see me in the reflection?

A few days after I returned (one year visa in passport!), quarter one ended. This means grading, writing individual narrative comments for each and every one of my students and submitting everything for report cards. There is always something to do when you are a teacher. 

Playing bananagrams with my students!

Quarter one finishes with a Myanmar tradition: Homage Day. Students and teachers don traditional dress and students honor their teachers at a special assembly, featuring speeches, music, dances and singing. The culminating moment is when students' voices join in unison to thank their teachers and ask them to forgive them for any mistakes (in Myanmar language).

You already know what happens next! I book it to the airport and jet off to Bangkok to meet Y for our reunion on Koh Chang.

Upon returning to Yangon, there was a new quarter to start, parent-student-teacher conferences to have and friends to catch up with. The school community here is special. Our social committee is very active, sponsoring all kinds of events to explore the city and for us to just hang out with each other. However, a few times a year we celebrate our support staff, the cleaners and guards who help keep our school shining and safe throughout the year. These photos are from our Potluck and Bowling event at the end of October.

Right Track Bowling is a 30 minute walk from my apartment/the school.

Playing a game, yes, betting 3,000 kyats was involved!

In this winner-takes-all game the final rolls of the dice are intense!

I came upon this cute little church while wandering in downtown one weekend. Somewhere in here I also saw a great Italian movie at the international film festival, La grande bellezza. An epic story set in lovely Italy.

This coffee store is in my neighborhood, but it is never open. Can you see why it caught my eye?

Another social committee event - watching old silent films set to Radiohead.

And then came Halloween! My favorite holiday was celebrated with a Vegans Anonymous potluck and dress-up days at school.

Gluten free vegan witch finger sugar cookies

Vegan potluck spread

Alice, on her way to school. No getting distracted by white rabbits allowed!

Teachers dress up like students day! Sporting the school uniform.

Just finished reading:
Moon Over Manifest by Clare Vanderpool; a children's book recommended to me by a friend/former colleague. An entertaining story with a spirited young protagonist, historical fiction.

Twilight Over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess by Inge Sargent; her autobiographical account of her marriage to a Shan Prince and her time in Burma. This one is up for discussion at book club next week! There is also a film and a quick internet search displays a lot of articles about the controversy this book has encountered.

Just finished eating:
If you knew me when I was a kid... or teenager... or, okay, okay, a young adult, then you know my favorite food is/was Macaroni and Cheese. Since going gluten and dairy free in 2009 for health reasons, there has not been a lot of carb-y, cheesy goodness in my life. Which is absolutely worthwhile because I no longer suffer from daily stomach pain. However, I am always looking for creative ways to get my old fix. This vegan gf version of my old favorite does the trick.

Oh, and the witch fingers!

What I'm Listening to:
Cat Power! I had the pleasure of seeing her live at Cruilla this July in Barcelona and she is my favorite discovery from a weekend full of amazing live music.

Interview of the Week:
Conor Oberst (Bright Eyes, Monsters of Folk, Desaparecidos) and Matt Berninger (The National) get together to talk about the song-writing process and music in general! I felt like I was at a bar overhearing an intimate chat at the next table. This is also one of my new favorite podcasts. 

A Worthwhile Cause:
One of my colleagues and friends is trying to enact real change in the population of stray animals in our neighborhood with a catch, neuter and release program. It's the season of giving, so why not chip in a little to help the pups and kitties? A few US dollars goes a long way in Myanmar!

Ha ha, definitely not in Yangon! A throwback to Thanksgiving weekend last year in Ngwe Saung...
Photo credit to T and her fancy camera!

I hope everyone has a happy Thanksgiving! I am already starting to think about the end of the quarter, finals and holidays with my family!

A Different Kind of Vacation: The Camino de Santiago

Uh-oh! This post is a day late! I have had it just about ready for a few days, but I guess I got distracted reading articles relating to the US elections... Anyway, we aren't going to unpack that here - this post shows and tells you a little more about the Camino and why I decided to take it on.

I first learned about the Camino de Santiago as a 20-year-old undergrad in Spanish class. I had just returned from a study abroad in Granada and I was obsessed with all things Spain. One of my professors showed us photos of her trip and as I watched the beautiful nature shots and fun times with friends go by, I thought, “I want to do that.”

The Camino de Santiago (or The Way of Saint James) dates back hundreds of years as a religious pilgrimage. There are many different paths that arrive in Santiago, but the main route is the Camino Francés. Religion continues to be present along the Way, but people now walk with other motives also. 

A tiny chapel outside of Astorga.

I opted to make my Camino goal come true in the summer of 2016. I had put it off for years for many reasons, but lack of time, as it takes five to six weeks to do the entire trek, was my main excuse. I finally decided that doing part of the Camino was better than not experiencing it at all. 

Moonset just before sunrise, a little past Rabanal el Camino.

I was also looking for a different kind of summer vacation – lounging poolside quickly loses its sparkle and I liked the idea of being active. I love living in Myanmar and Yangon is a dynamic city, but it lacks green spaces and access to nature. It felt right to get out and just walk. The time to think about life and reflect on my goals that walking all day, every day, opens up was attractive as well. Being able to use Spanish and enjoy the cuisine along the way were, of course, big pluses. 

A dusty part of the Camino on a hot day.

Pilgrims make their way through one of the many small towns.

Approaching Molinaseca. 

Due to its well-trodden history, the Camino is an ideal trek for those who do not have a lot of backpacking experience. Yes, you do need to bring all that you need for your journey on your back, but there are opportunities to supplement your supplies or replace items along the route. Many towns exist because of the Camino and small pensions, convenience stores and cafes cater to pilgrims. Though most walkers complete about 20-25 kilometers a day, I met many people who hiked more or less. 

My 15 Euro splurge on a private room in Molinaseca.

My top bunk in a hostel room for four in Cacabelos.

In the end, I trekked 367 kilometers, about half of the Camino. If you ask me about my dream vacation, I have a lot of ideas! But, walking the entire Camino de Santiago would definitely be one of my answers. 

Me and my best friend Raquel, aka my backpack, on the Camino (somewhere between Pamplona and Navarrete).

Meanwhile Back in Yangon...

My last lots of posts have focused on my travels, so I thought it would be good to circle back to life in Yangon. While Myanmar is very foreign to most of my friends in the west, it has come to be my familiar place, my home for now, over the last few years and a lot of what I do here is routine. In this post, I'll share a little of what that looks like!

I returned to Yangon at the end of July, the weekend before teacher meetings were set to begin and just over a week before students would return to school. It was a bit of a quick turnaround, but I had wanted to maximize my time in Spain. :)

It's not too fun to write a post about all the planning I do to get my four Spanish courses (six classes!) off the ground each August (though I do love the creativity of teaching and the newness of back to school always!), so this post focuses on what I am doing in my precious teacher free time.

First things first, I bought vegetables! Being able to cook healthy meals is a treat after traveling and having to rely on restaurants for most of your food. Beans, tomatoes, coconut milk, fresh cilantro, tofu, sweet potatoes, limes, ginger root, a lemon, green beans, purple cabbage and dragon fruit pictured below!

I love the variety and availability of great local produce!

I gazed at the familiar glowing golden-ness of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, while meeting and catching up with friends (this shot is from the Alfa Hotel's rooftop bar).

I enjoyed some teacher social events... My school's social committee hosts a lot of get-to-know-you events for the new teachers and it seems there is always somewhere to go or something to do... I never get bored!

K and I in the school bus on the way to a teacher appreciation dinner.

The parent association president (standing) with a table of teachers.

All school photo! Can you find me? ;)

Dance party! One of the many events hosted at a teacher house.

I ate some delicious Burmese food! I love Rangoon Tea House!

My Eggplant Curry, with sides, rice and soup...my friend's samosas and chicken wrap.

The rooftop bar tour was a bit of a theme in August... Here is Sule Pagoda from Yangon, Yangon.

I hosted a former student from Seattle who had recently graduated and done volunteer work, teaching English and sex ed, to community leaders in northern Thailand. B came with her friend C after their program ended and they visited me  for exactly one week. They made the most of their short visit as only young people can, doing a whirlwind tour of Myanmar, bussing to Bagan, scurrying all over Yangon and catching up on sleep in my extra bedroom (it is available for YOU too; email me to book!).

Though B and C were on a pretty tight budget, we decided to splurge on a fancy brunch at the Novotel. Brunching is a cultural experience and serious pastime among foreigners and well-to-do locals alike. 

B and I fancied up for brunch

Brunch complete with sushi chef.

My selection!

I made friends with the geckos in my apartment. We are buds; they eat the mosquitos and sing to me. Nothing tops my Desi-cat for at home company, but seeing as she is snuggled in with hew new family in Seattle...

Just one of the parade or processions that pass by in front of our apartment building on a daily basis. This is Myanmar!

And, on a long weekend in September, I snuck away to the gorgeous beach town of Ngapali!

This is what the coast of Myanmar looks like... in rainy season!

Yes, I work hard during the week, go to bed early and spend time on weekends grading and planning... but I do have lots of fun too!

This post is one day early! Remember to vote tomorrow, US friends! I already submitted my ballot from here.

 What I'm Listening to as I write this post:

Carla Morrison - A current student recommended her to me and I love her! I bought her Amor Supremo album and I really like it. It's a solid late at night or Sunday chill album; she has a beautiful voice and the lyrics are poetry.

What I'm Eating for Breakfast This Week:
Though this recipe is called Raw Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Bites it seems mighty healthy to me!

Números

Numbers

During my 3 weeks on the Camino de Santiago...

I cooked 7 meals.

I had a choice of 2 shirts each day (turquoise or blue).

I found 2 four leaf clovers.
I drank from 1 wine fountain (part of a monastery).
I ate 4 gluten free baked goods (!). 

I spent 6 months beforehand dreaming and planning.

I lost 3 bobby pins.

I stayed in 13 albergues (hostels).
I found and returned 1 bracelet to its owner.
I swam 2 times.

I drank 9 bottles of wine.

I collected 67 stamps in my pilgrim's passport. Actually, I used 2 pilgim's passports... (because the first one filled up.)

I slept 1 night in a tent.

I went to mass 2 times.
I had 19 picnics.

I took 2 ibuprofens.

I saw 0 bedbugs.
I got lost one time... somewhere between Rabanal el Camino and Molinaseca... 

I drank 40 coffees.
I got 1 blister (right heel).
I took 0 taxis.
I sampled 2 servings of pulpo (octopus).
I hand-washed clothes 17 times... I used a washing machine 1 time. 

I made many acquaintances and new friends (from the US, Spain, South Africa, France, Hong Kong, Costa Rica, Italy, Germany, Finland, Sweden...).
I walked 367.6 kilometers (228.4 miles); this is about half of the Camino.

  

Reunion on Koh Chang

When you move abroad loads of people say they would love to visit. The reality is, though, that a lot has to come together for most of us to make an international trip happen. My friend, Y, made it a reality this year! I was delighted when she booked her flights and we threw around a lot of ideas for our week together.

We decided to meet up in Bangkok at the start of my fall break and then travel southeast to a Thai island called Koh Chang. A few of my colleagues had been before and they suggested it based on beautiful beaches, a cool vibe and plenty of options for fun while still relaxing.

All went smoothly with both of our flights and we jumped up and down and hugged repeatedly upon meeting at the airport hotel on Friday night. We took an early shuttle the next day, which allowed us plenty of time to chat and catch up on the way to the island.

Our top 10 from the week (in no particular order):

1. Beaches! That's why we visit islands, right? Well, Koh Chang is one of the biggest islands in Thailand and it has lots of them. We stuck to the west coast on this trip, staying at three different resorts, which allowed us to see different spots on the island. The west is more developed than the east, but it sounds like there are some great spots if you want to get away from it all on the east side. I heard that one small town is only accesible by boat!

My classic feet + beach shot

At some spots the beach is rocky...still gorgeous!

2. Shoulder Season! This means that we paid very fair rates for some very fancy places… it also means that there weren't lines, crowds or sunburns… However, it does mean we had some gray skies and got caught in a few monsoon showers. Luckily, the weather is warm and you can swim rain or shine. Also, the sun really made an appearance in the second half of the week.

So where did we stay?

Mercure - I booked this hotel for our first few days so that we would have a place to head to right away. It was beautiful! We loved the beachfront location, TWO swimming pools and attentive staff. We didn't love the "hideaway" location since it meant we had to get all meals, snacks and drinks from the hotel restaurant and it made it more difficult to explore. 

We decided we were basically on honeymoon together!

Modern room

AWA - After some scoping out, we decided to spend our next few days in Kai Bai, which is a nice stretch of beach and has one main street with plenty of shops and dining options. We didn't love the hotel, but we did like the location.

Pretty pool

The main street

Ramayana - I found this one through its great Trip Advisor reviews. And it was a find! We had relaxing massages here, dined poolside, hiked to a waterfall and dipped in the pool and jacuzzi. The only downside is that it's not on the beach (but it operates a shuttle to and from). The grounds are carefully landscaped, the food is good and our room was cute! 

Y contemplates the water.

3. Thai Food! Y is vegan and I am almost vegan and gluten free… communicating these needs to folks who don't understand a lot of English and who don't have the same cultural concept of food preferences and allergies can be a challenge. Y and I had many successful eating experiences on our trip with favorites being coconut curries, phad thai (it's a classic for a reason!), fresh coconuts and fruity cocktails (hey, it's vacation!).

Drinking coconuts and waiting for veggie Thai food.

4. Hikes! Well, technically we only went on one true hike. But, we walked and wandered a LOT this week. On our last day we found Klung Phu waterfall. We walked here from our hotel, enjoying the local scene along the way and then the national park trail along the river to a gorgeous waterfall. We even saw a river turtle (photos didn't turn out) and lots of fish nibble visitors as they swim!

Starting our hike

Y dives right in

P.S. Dad, this one is a national park! We even stopped at the visitor center and signed the guestbook. ;)

5. Animals! We saw lots of fishies on our day trip snorkeling, but we were surprised daily by frogs, huge bees and lots of tropical bugs! A lot of the shop and restaurant owners also keep pets that wander their establishments.

Temple kitten

The most beautiful bee

He was hopping along the main street!

This one visited us on our hotel porch

6. Good company! As you may have noticed, I do most of my adventuring alone. It was a real treat to have a true blue friend's company this week. We realized that we had never been on vacation together before, but that we had similar travel styles. The week was an excellent balance of exploring, resting, reading and doing yoga together.

Hanging our feet overboard on our snorkeling trip

When in Asia...

Yes...

...we played peek-a-boo.

7. Coffee! Yeah, we are both big fans. It was super fun to wake up each day, giggle with each other and get our coffee as we got going. Coconut milk was our favorite option for creamer and iced americano the preferred drink.

Poolside selfie with caffeine :)

8. Swimming pools! We played in the waves and sand, but each spot we stayed had beautiful swimming pools - the Mercure had two!

Y takes her victory lap at the Mercure!

9.  Books! We are both big readers. My genre of choice is fiction. During the week I read…

Diary of an Oxygen Thief by Anonymous - This was a recommendation from a former student. It is an intense and quick read and it won't be everyone's favorite, but I thought it was excellent. It's been described as a modern Catcher in the Rye and I can see why - you get into the narrator's head, hearing his thoughts about his life and the struggles he faces.

Tuck Everlasting by Natalie Babbitt - a young adult classic! I don't think I ever read it growing up. Worth a read if you are young or old!

And Y was working on: The Rift: A New Africa Breaks Free by Alex Perry. It was a BIG book and covered a lot of history; she didn't quite finish it, but she said she had heard that the end was hopeful. I hope so.

10. Movie nights! Neither of us were looking for big parties or late nights and we enjoyed winding down with films on several evenings. What did we watch or re-watch? Kill Bill (1 and 2), Girls Season 5, Twilight Over Burma (and after viewing we both decided to read the book upon which the film is based) and a few episodes of Orange is the New Black.

On a much more somber note, Thailand experienced a huge loss during our trip with the passing of the King. There is no shortage of articles about his life and what is next for Thailand, but one succinct story is here. 

And I would like to congratulate myself for publishing a post about a trip that I took just a couple of weeks ago - way to go CassyBee!!!

Bye bye, Koh Chang, we hope to return someday!

Article of the Week:
Expressions are one of the more challenging parts of learning another language. Read here if you are curious about all the different ways we can use milk in Spanish. The article is in English! :)

Recipe of the Week:

I think that I have mentioned this blog before, but I tried their Spanish Vegan Fabada this week and it turned out amazing! The flavors were delicious and it really was simple to make. I didn't have sweet paprika, only smoky (from Granada, Spain!), but the dish still turned out great. 

Drink of the Week:
Another from the Simple Vegan Blog! If you want a non-caffeinated, comforting and creamy hot beverage this fall, I recommend a Turmeric Latte. Turmeric has many positive health benefits, including being anti-inflammatory. I used coconut milk for mine this morning and it was delicious. You could also add a dash of nutmeg, ground cloves or cardamom. 

I had to include one last sunset.

Til next week! ;)