Day 8: Estella - Los Arcos

Here we go! I left Madrid with my little backpack one week ago today. I was just telling Ch, one of my roommates tonight, that I feel a little overwhelmed by my blog, not because it is hanging over my head to write, but because so very much happens in one day on the Camino and it is hard to remember everything and report back on it all! 

N was having another short day so we took a selfie and said see you later down the Camino. 

Highlights from today included pretty colors as the sun rose...

Hitting up the Irache wine fountain just after 8am...

The sign says you should drink if you want the strength to arrive to Santiago. ;)

And, of course, pretty parts of the Camino!

I had nice breaks and felt rested too. I arrived to Los Arcos just after 3 and wanted to stay since it was almost 7 k until the next village. However, I have gotten back on the main stages and I couldn't find a bed. There was one last place to try, but they were so disorganized they couldn't even tell me if they had space. While I waited and tried to think of a plan B (rest and then keep walking, take a taxi, find a bus...) some French pilgrims that I had kept seeing told me they had booked a room and had an extra space. I said I would take it! Camino magic! 

It turned out that their room for four was actually for 6 so we ended up adopting 2 more, including Ch. :)

Ch and I visited the church. Lovely, a must-see if you come here. 

The organ:

And our saint, Santiago:

The small plaza was crowded with pilgrims so we shared a table with a solo Belgian and laughed and communicated the best we could in French, Spanish and English. He insisted on picking up the check. 

Ch helped bandage his feet after dinner (she's a nurse) and we are all tucked in now. It's chilly; the winds really picked up tonight. Hasta mañana. :)

Kilometers walked: 23.86 (Fitbit), 21.40 (Buen Camino app). More in sync today!

Day 6: Uterga - Lorca

Today was a rough one. The Camino is not all skipping through vineyards and prancing in the sun. I thought that after a good night's sleep I would be ready for a more typical day, but the combination of ups, downs, sun, wind and rain wore me out. The last few kilometers to Lorca were brutal and I really wondered why I had decided to do this... 

I stopped in Puente la Reina (above) for a hot drink and an escape from the rain. As predicted, the rain stopped around 10. But, I think I had weather from all four seasons!

Puente la Reina is a gorgeous little town and it has more services than many of the small villages. I bought some kinesthetic tape at a pharmacy here and it made a huge difference in how my knee felt. 

Approaching Ciraqui (above) I felt pretty good. I had a rest, a snack and commited to the next 5-ish k to the next village. As you can see from the photo, I'm starting to get into Spain's wine country. 

The Romans marched along this part of the Camino. 

I think it's normal to question your motivation when you commit to something like the Camino. Sharing experiences with other pilgrims at the albergue renewed me and I vowed to take an easier day, or even more easier days, as I make my way. 

Typical house that has embraced the scallop shell, one of the Camino's symbols. 

Kilometers walked: 27.11 (Fitbit), 20.44 (Buen Camino app). I know I took a wrong turn early in the day, so 2-3 k of variation here is probably due to that. 

Day 3: Roncesvalles - Linzoáin (Lintzoain)

First things first, why are there two town names above? I'm in the Basque Country and the second is the Basque name for where I am. Spain has a lot of geographical, cultural and linguistic variety - come and see! 

I wanted to sleep in until 7:15 or so today, but in the big albergues it can be difficult. Lots of people in one big room means a lot of noise... phones, snores and really early risers. When the lights switched on at 6, I figured that I might as well get up. 

(Before dawn selfie; only 790 k to go...)

I was out of town before 7, opting to walk a little before breakfast. It was still dark on the trail, but I met a sweet Swedish girl with a headlamp so we chatted until the next town (and breakfast stop). My body didn't feel so sore, but I just felt tired despite the food and caffeine. 

It was a drizzly morning, which is not bad for walking, but my clothes hadn't dried from the day before so I started looking at lodging options at my second coffee shop. I opted for an easy day and to avoid the stop that most were headed towards, in an attempt to escape the crowd. I think everyone has read that September has better weather and is less-crowded... so far it seems busy to me. However, it will probably even out as we strike our own paces a bit more. 

I found a lovely old house, which has been reformed into Camino lodging via my Buen Camino app. It's a new option on the Camino and the owner is very kind; the bonus is she has an adorable puppy, Nala. 

With my clothes on the line, a picnic lunch at the table inside my tummy and good wifi, I updated my blog and rested. 

The hostel is THE option for food and drink so I enjoyed a lovely meal of home-cooked, locally grown, fresh food for dinner. 

Kilometers walked: 19.13, definitely not a record for the Camino, but a good easy day. Not all of this was "on the Camino" as I explored around the village, stretching my legs after settling in. 

Day 2: St. Jean - Roncesvalles

Today will also be known as the hazing day of the Camino. Oh my, saying it was hard doesn't even begin to describe it. I left my hostel at 7:11am and didn't get here until 5:30... more than 10 hours on the trail does not mean that I was walking the whole time, but it does mean I was on the road for a very long stretch of time. The ascent was tough, the descent was steep. I had some great rest stops, conversations with fellow pilgrims, snacks and took some amazing pictures. 

I finally made to Roncesvalles and it was good I had made a reservation because all 180 beds were taken. Getting to the hostel late means less time to rest and that my hair and clothes are still wet. Most pilgrims finish their walking at 2-3 to take advantage of Spanish lunchtime and relaxing in the evening. Hmmm, that sounds nice!

It was a great day. It was just long and a brutal start in. If you do the Camino Francés I absolutely recommend that you break up this first stage. Your body is not used to the trail or your pack yet and it becomes a trial. 

I met quite a few Americans today and kept running into three men from Texas. As we chatted and also met other pilgrims people were so kind, asking them if all was okay with their homes and families. ❤️

This evening was busy. Self care (clothes washing, showering, Food!) took priority, but I did make it to the 8pm pilgrims' mass . It was a really special ceremony and all the pilgrims were called forward at the end to receive a blessing. 

My plan is for tomorrow to be a much shorter day. It will be good for my body to move and stretch but pushing it too much at the start is not a good idea. 

Kilometers walked: 25.83... though I'm starting to wonder how accurate my darling Fitbit is since that is shy of what the route marks... and I tend to trust the 1000 year old trail more than new technology. 😂 However, it is noteworthy that none of my walking registered today... instead the Fitbit picked up my activity as sport. Intense. 

Holiday Letter

Dear family and friends,

Happy holidays! It has been a big year in my life, a lot has happened in your lives as well and the crazy world keeps spinning! But, here we are, at the beginning of 2017. I spent time with loved ones in New Mexico and Southern California this holiday season.

I started this blog in 2014 as I made my transition to international teaching in Myanmar. Here I am, two and a half years later, writing my "Happy Holidays" card to you, as I sit at my dining room table in my apartment in Yangon. :)

I hope that you have kept up with the blog, and there are certainly many details and photos in previous posts, but as I type now and reflect on the year, there are a few events that stand out. I welcomed 2016 with my parents in northern Myanmar! We explored Inle Lake and met the elephants at the Kalaw Elephant Sanctuary. 

I wrapped up my second academic year teaching Spanish here, including the pioneer (or hamster) class of Spanish 4. It was the first time that this course was offered at my school and the responsibility of setting routine, starting traditions and creating curriculum was mine. It was a project and an accomplishment, though I will never be done refining. One highlight was a visit from the Spanish embassy to my seniors' final project presentations in May.

I was delighted to return to Spain for June and July (it had been 7 years! too long!). Most of my time was spent hiking the Camino de Santiago, but I also completed my Spanish AP Language and Culture Certification in Madrid, reunited with an old grad school buddy for the Cruilla Music Festival in Barcelona and visited favorite haunts of Málaga and Granada in the south of Spain. Spain will always be my special place.

Spanish Teachers! This is just after our paella cooking class in Madrid.

English Teachers! I taught with these ladies 10 years ago! Reunion dinner in Rincón de la Victoria.

¡Profesores! We started teaching Spanish together in 2006 at the University of Washington... and we both survived grad school!

The chronic back pain that has been an off-again, on-again part of my life since I was 20 years old continues to nag at me, but I manage it with diet, exercise, yoga and, sometimes, medication. 

As the school year started again, the feeling of being overloaded and ready for a change of pace became more and more apparent in my life (What is my average teaching day like? Read this.). Like many teachers, I love what I do, but it can also be exhausting. A lot of time thinking has led me to a big decision regarding the direction of my life this year.

Announcement time! I am taking a sabbatical at the end of this academic year. I will finish teaching in Yangon in June, spend a few months in Asia, probably return to Spain (and maybe finally get to Morocco), visit folks in the states and then head south to Argentina. For now the plan is to do some traveling in Latin America and explore teaching, and other work options, there. 

Let me know if you want me to pass through your town, if you'd like to meet up to travel, or if you have contacts in South America, especially in Buenos Aires. I hope to catch up with many of you in the next year.

Peace,

CassyBee

P.S. The blog plan is to post twice a month, about every other Tuesday. Leave a comment if there is a topic (or place!) you want me to cover.

A Different Kind of Vacation: The Camino de Santiago

Uh-oh! This post is a day late! I have had it just about ready for a few days, but I guess I got distracted reading articles relating to the US elections... Anyway, we aren't going to unpack that here - this post shows and tells you a little more about the Camino and why I decided to take it on.

I first learned about the Camino de Santiago as a 20-year-old undergrad in Spanish class. I had just returned from a study abroad in Granada and I was obsessed with all things Spain. One of my professors showed us photos of her trip and as I watched the beautiful nature shots and fun times with friends go by, I thought, “I want to do that.”

The Camino de Santiago (or The Way of Saint James) dates back hundreds of years as a religious pilgrimage. There are many different paths that arrive in Santiago, but the main route is the Camino Francés. Religion continues to be present along the Way, but people now walk with other motives also. 

A tiny chapel outside of Astorga.

I opted to make my Camino goal come true in the summer of 2016. I had put it off for years for many reasons, but lack of time, as it takes five to six weeks to do the entire trek, was my main excuse. I finally decided that doing part of the Camino was better than not experiencing it at all. 

Moonset just before sunrise, a little past Rabanal el Camino.

I was also looking for a different kind of summer vacation – lounging poolside quickly loses its sparkle and I liked the idea of being active. I love living in Myanmar and Yangon is a dynamic city, but it lacks green spaces and access to nature. It felt right to get out and just walk. The time to think about life and reflect on my goals that walking all day, every day, opens up was attractive as well. Being able to use Spanish and enjoy the cuisine along the way were, of course, big pluses. 

A dusty part of the Camino on a hot day.

Pilgrims make their way through one of the many small towns.

Approaching Molinaseca. 

Due to its well-trodden history, the Camino is an ideal trek for those who do not have a lot of backpacking experience. Yes, you do need to bring all that you need for your journey on your back, but there are opportunities to supplement your supplies or replace items along the route. Many towns exist because of the Camino and small pensions, convenience stores and cafes cater to pilgrims. Though most walkers complete about 20-25 kilometers a day, I met many people who hiked more or less. 

My 15 Euro splurge on a private room in Molinaseca.

My top bunk in a hostel room for four in Cacabelos.

In the end, I trekked 367 kilometers, about half of the Camino. If you ask me about my dream vacation, I have a lot of ideas! But, walking the entire Camino de Santiago would definitely be one of my answers. 

Me and my best friend Raquel, aka my backpack, on the Camino (somewhere between Pamplona and Navarrete).

Números

Numbers

During my 3 weeks on the Camino de Santiago...

I cooked 7 meals.

I had a choice of 2 shirts each day (turquoise or blue).

I found 2 four leaf clovers.
I drank from 1 wine fountain (part of a monastery).
I ate 4 gluten free baked goods (!). 

I spent 6 months beforehand dreaming and planning.

I lost 3 bobby pins.

I stayed in 13 albergues (hostels).
I found and returned 1 bracelet to its owner.
I swam 2 times.

I drank 9 bottles of wine.

I collected 67 stamps in my pilgrim's passport. Actually, I used 2 pilgim's passports... (because the first one filled up.)

I slept 1 night in a tent.

I went to mass 2 times.
I had 19 picnics.

I took 2 ibuprofens.

I saw 0 bedbugs.
I got lost one time... somewhere between Rabanal el Camino and Molinaseca... 

I drank 40 coffees.
I got 1 blister (right heel).
I took 0 taxis.
I sampled 2 servings of pulpo (octopus).
I hand-washed clothes 17 times... I used a washing machine 1 time. 

I made many acquaintances and new friends (from the US, Spain, South Africa, France, Hong Kong, Costa Rica, Italy, Germany, Finland, Sweden...).
I walked 367.6 kilometers (228.4 miles); this is about half of the Camino.