Day 44: Lires - Muxia

Once upon a time I started the Camino... and today I finished walking! There is no where left to go, I walked to Santiago, then the sea at the end of the world and now along the end of the world’s coast. Muxia is gorgeous in a wind blown, wild and less visited kind of way. 

But, first I had to get here... my internal alarm dinged just before 7 and I was awake. I did some stretching in bed and then gathered my things so I could pack up outside of the shared room. I went downstairs for coffee at 7:30 and happily sipped my americano, caught up with friends and family on the wonderful what’s app technology and ate some of my gluten free bread with strawberry jam. The television showed the news and it was all bad. I lingered as there was no reason to leave in the dark (sunrise is almost at 9 now). 

Around 8:20 the sky was dark blue so I set off. I gazed at the silvery sliver moon, carefully followed my shells and crossed a bridge leaving town. 

I didn’t take too many pictures to start because I was just really soaking in my last day. 

Storm and fire stories have been in the news, but I saw blue skies and only smelled pine, eucalyptus and farms. I walked and walked, not taking breaks. There are days, and times, when the Camino still feels very hard, my backpack very heavy or my body very tired, even with all my practice. But, I also feel stronger and I know my pace has picked up. 

I ran into a French pilgrim (heading to Finisterre) that I’d stayed with way back in Estella (Day 7). We stopped and chatted about post-Camino plans, the sea and what the way felt like now. We are both ready for the next thing. It’s good! It’s so crazy-cool how you can see someone weeks later and still have a sense of camrederie. 

Turning back towards the ocean has not lost its charm. 

At this point the Camino begins its descent into Muxia and it is absolutely unbelievably beautiful. 

Coming into town. 

I thought I would stay at one more Municipal Albergue, but it wasn’t open at noon as I passed, I thought I would have a coffee and a wander and head back, but then I remembered H’s recommendation from a few days earlier. I happily checked in to a private albergue in the center of town, received my Muxia Compostela certificate and visited the grocery store. I made a salad and some rice here and then it was nap time. 

Raquel, my backpack, next to my bed. This place is great - individual charging stations and night stands, privacy curtains and lockers. And they even let you use a real towel!

Wandering around Muxia is a great end to Camino life. The sea breeze, chilled out vibe and smiles from fellow pilgrims all add to the town’s atmosphere. 

First entering town:

The harbor:

Seaside street:

More boots and beaches:

Rain has blown in this afternoon, so I’ve had some time for writing, music and relaxing at the albergue. The scene has really changed. I am on the Coast of Death at the end of the world; it seems appropriate that the weather turn dark. Despite the clouds, rain and wind, I set out just before 7 in the evening to walk the last kilometer out to the edge of it all; I’m from Seattle!, rain won’t stop me, I thought. 

The beginning of the climb up:

The weather didn’t stop me, but it was fierce! I made my way carefully, following the arrows along the path and then rocks. 

They went past the cemetery. 

I saw a dog eating some chicken bones that someone had left and it stopped me. I realized it had been a long time since I saw a stray. 

I made it to the top of the hill and looked back at Muxia. Same town, but different look! And, the dog had followed me! He seemed to know where to go, we kept moving closer towards the coast. 

Laughing in the wind and rain; what else do you do?!?

The path evened out, and, well, became an actual path again. I followed my doggy guide. 

We saw the sites:

An amazing church stands out there:

And I took one last picture of the lighthouse before I started fearing for my phone’s wellbeing. I was drenched!

I zipped my precious in my raincoat pocket and hurried back to town and my albergue. 

Dinner at the albergue, using the dryer, catching up on the phone with Y and a little planning for tomorrow followed. Tomorrow: Santiago, Thursday: Madrid, Friday: Málaga!!!

I have at least two more Camino blogs to write (what I packed, the differences between the French and Original ways), but entry 44 ends this creative project on 17/10/17, 6 weeks after it started. I do like numbers. Thank you again to all my readers and to everyone who helped me get to the Camino. I hope you will experience it, too, one day. 

Buen camino a todos. 

Kilometers walked: 21.45 (Fitbit), 15.7 (Guidebook from the pilgrim office in Santiago). I walked all over town and out to the lighthouse and back. :)

Cambodia: Ream National Park (aka: The Beach)

After too few days in Siem Reap it was already time to pack up my bags and make my way to my next spot... So, what about my luggage? My bags were bulkier than I prefer. But, with hiking boots, a raincoat and fleece for cooler spots and laptop for yoga homework I had a lot to be prepared for! And it still all fit in a tuk-tuk. 

On the way to the airport.

Window seat for my one hour flight.

I flew from Siem Reap to Sihanoukville and it was an easy trip. It’s a small airport and a little beach town; you absolutely have the feeling that you are going somewhere special. I actually didn’t spend any time in Sihanoukville, though I hear it has some good nightlife, especially for the backpacking adventurer type. It’s also a jumping off point for Cambodia’s islands, which I only heard amazing things about, but I did not get to experience on this trip. I'll save those for next time!

Not an island, but I was very happy here.

Where I stayed:
A tip from a friend in Yangon pushed me on to Ream National Park. This is a gorgeous, and as of now, undeveloped area. I stayed at Monkey Maya, the only option around. Accommodation is quite basic (dorms and a few private rooms, no wifi, electricity only a few hours in the evenings), but the charm of this place is it’s chilled-out vibe and proximity to nature. The jungle is nearby for hikes, the terrace is wide for taking in the view and the beach is long and sandy. My favorite part was the bioluminescent algae. The beach was downright magical at night and swimming with these glowing beings was a trip highlight.

My basic bungalow

Million dollar view.

Looking up at my spot.

My new friend. :) Hey, I said it was in the jungle!

What I ate:

Where I stayed and where I ate was the same! There is only one option here! Monkey Maya - there was no reason to leave this paradise at all. The restaurant offers many options, both Western and Asian, caters to gluten-free and gluten-loving eaters and vegans or carnivores. Lots of drinks and a daily happy hour as well.

My favorite meal - gluten free pancakes with peanut butter and maple syrup and an iced coffee.

What I read:

As I mentioned, the lure to this place lies in its remote location. I walked on the beach, swam, worked on my yoga sequence and essays, stared at the sea and read. I decided to read a book about Cambodia and settled on the memoir: First They Killed My Father by Loung Ung. This is a well-written story and an incredible firsthand account of a young girl’s life under the Khmer Rouge takeover and regime. I highly recommend it.

Netflix is going to release the film version of this story in September. The author wrote the screenplay and it's directed by Angelina Jolie. Here's the trailer. 

Ah.

Meanwhile Back in Yangon...

My last lots of posts have focused on my travels, so I thought it would be good to circle back to life in Yangon. While Myanmar is very foreign to most of my friends in the west, it has come to be my familiar place, my home for now, over the last few years and a lot of what I do here is routine. In this post, I'll share a little of what that looks like!

I returned to Yangon at the end of July, the weekend before teacher meetings were set to begin and just over a week before students would return to school. It was a bit of a quick turnaround, but I had wanted to maximize my time in Spain. :)

It's not too fun to write a post about all the planning I do to get my four Spanish courses (six classes!) off the ground each August (though I do love the creativity of teaching and the newness of back to school always!), so this post focuses on what I am doing in my precious teacher free time.

First things first, I bought vegetables! Being able to cook healthy meals is a treat after traveling and having to rely on restaurants for most of your food. Beans, tomatoes, coconut milk, fresh cilantro, tofu, sweet potatoes, limes, ginger root, a lemon, green beans, purple cabbage and dragon fruit pictured below!

I love the variety and availability of great local produce!

I gazed at the familiar glowing golden-ness of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, while meeting and catching up with friends (this shot is from the Alfa Hotel's rooftop bar).

I enjoyed some teacher social events... My school's social committee hosts a lot of get-to-know-you events for the new teachers and it seems there is always somewhere to go or something to do... I never get bored!

K and I in the school bus on the way to a teacher appreciation dinner.

The parent association president (standing) with a table of teachers.

All school photo! Can you find me? ;)

Dance party! One of the many events hosted at a teacher house.

I ate some delicious Burmese food! I love Rangoon Tea House!

My Eggplant Curry, with sides, rice and soup...my friend's samosas and chicken wrap.

The rooftop bar tour was a bit of a theme in August... Here is Sule Pagoda from Yangon, Yangon.

I hosted a former student from Seattle who had recently graduated and done volunteer work, teaching English and sex ed, to community leaders in northern Thailand. B came with her friend C after their program ended and they visited me  for exactly one week. They made the most of their short visit as only young people can, doing a whirlwind tour of Myanmar, bussing to Bagan, scurrying all over Yangon and catching up on sleep in my extra bedroom (it is available for YOU too; email me to book!).

Though B and C were on a pretty tight budget, we decided to splurge on a fancy brunch at the Novotel. Brunching is a cultural experience and serious pastime among foreigners and well-to-do locals alike. 

B and I fancied up for brunch

Brunch complete with sushi chef.

My selection!

I made friends with the geckos in my apartment. We are buds; they eat the mosquitos and sing to me. Nothing tops my Desi-cat for at home company, but seeing as she is snuggled in with hew new family in Seattle...

Just one of the parade or processions that pass by in front of our apartment building on a daily basis. This is Myanmar!

And, on a long weekend in September, I snuck away to the gorgeous beach town of Ngapali!

This is what the coast of Myanmar looks like... in rainy season!

Yes, I work hard during the week, go to bed early and spend time on weekends grading and planning... but I do have lots of fun too!

This post is one day early! Remember to vote tomorrow, US friends! I already submitted my ballot from here.

 What I'm Listening to as I write this post:

Carla Morrison - A current student recommended her to me and I love her! I bought her Amor Supremo album and I really like it. It's a solid late at night or Sunday chill album; she has a beautiful voice and the lyrics are poetry.

What I'm Eating for Breakfast This Week:
Though this recipe is called Raw Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Bites it seems mighty healthy to me!

Vietnam, Part 5, Hoi An

After an all-day motorcycle tour from Hue, I arrived in Hoi An. I took a little wander around town and then crashed. My room was adorable; I could have moved in. I was excited to explore the next day and stay the rest of my break here.

A cozy spot for the week

Hoi An is a beautiful town, which is well-known for its windy streets, river canals and tailors. It has a European touch to it and I loved all the coffee shops and restaurants with al fresco dining options. Its lantern festivals are also famous. It just so happened I would get to experience one of these magical evenings during my week here! If you can adjust your travel plans to be in Hoi An for a lantern festival, I would recommend you do so!

Colorful lanterns on a Hoi An street

Sampling coffee and deciding what to bring back!

Downtown Hoi An is car and motorbike free, but there are a lot of bicycles. I rented one for a day and enjoyed cruising around. 

Hoi An Canal

Panorama of the main canal

Historic Brid

Banana flower salad... did you know that bananas have flowers? And, that you can eat them?

A sample of what a local tailor can do...

Dusk in downtown

Most of the teachers travel away from Yangon when we have school breaks. I love living in Yangon, but I also love getting out when we have a chunk of time off of school. As it turns out a friend and colleague, K, was also traveling through Vietnam at this time. I met up with her, and her visiting parents, for dinner and the lantern festival.

The four of us ate at a restaurant near the water as the sun set. After finishing our meal, we made our way towards the canals. Hoi An limits electric light on these special nights (the 14th day of each lunar month) and with just the flicker of lanterns, the town takes on a magical glow. It was easy to purchase paper lanterns and hop in a boat. Our captain rowed us out, where we released our lanterns, watching them as they drifted out until they mingled with the rest. 

Selfie from our rowboat

My lantern on its way out

Moon over the canal

Lanterns on the water

I ended my time in Hoi An by picking up a few new custom-made items from tailors and relaxing at the beach. The beach is absolutely lovely; it has enough development to be comfortable (beach bars, ice cream stands, seafood restaurants), but not enough to take away the calm and charm of the place. 

Beach near Hoi An

We've made it to the end of my Vietnam saga! I am sorry that my posts lag so far behind my adventures.

I am going to continue on my Tuesday publication schedule until the holiday break...so keep reading! Hopefully, this will let me catch you up on my goings and goings (if that is even possible - I have been in Yangon 1 out of the last 5 weekends...).

Favorite sweet treat:

A friend make these gluten free vegan cookie dough balls for a recent potluck and they disappeared FAST! I haven't tried the recipe yet, but it looks pretty easy and not too unhealthy.

Podcast Recommendation:

I don't follow many podcasts, but I have become hooked on Tea with BVP. It focuses on second language acquisition and it has been shaping how I think about what I do in the classroom.

Another Blog Recommendation:

One of my former students is studying abroad in Spain this year. Follow her journey and live vicariously through her adventures with El Mundo Loco.

Ha ha, this is what my backpack looked like when I got home! I took carry-on only for my two weeks in Vietnam!