Day 3: Roncesvalles - Linzoáin (Lintzoain)

First things first, why are there two town names above? I'm in the Basque Country and the second is the Basque name for where I am. Spain has a lot of geographical, cultural and linguistic variety - come and see! 

I wanted to sleep in until 7:15 or so today, but in the big albergues it can be difficult. Lots of people in one big room means a lot of noise... phones, snores and really early risers. When the lights switched on at 6, I figured that I might as well get up. 

(Before dawn selfie; only 790 k to go...)

I was out of town before 7, opting to walk a little before breakfast. It was still dark on the trail, but I met a sweet Swedish girl with a headlamp so we chatted until the next town (and breakfast stop). My body didn't feel so sore, but I just felt tired despite the food and caffeine. 

It was a drizzly morning, which is not bad for walking, but my clothes hadn't dried from the day before so I started looking at lodging options at my second coffee shop. I opted for an easy day and to avoid the stop that most were headed towards, in an attempt to escape the crowd. I think everyone has read that September has better weather and is less-crowded... so far it seems busy to me. However, it will probably even out as we strike our own paces a bit more. 

I found a lovely old house, which has been reformed into Camino lodging via my Buen Camino app. It's a new option on the Camino and the owner is very kind; the bonus is she has an adorable puppy, Nala. 

With my clothes on the line, a picnic lunch at the table inside my tummy and good wifi, I updated my blog and rested. 

The hostel is THE option for food and drink so I enjoyed a lovely meal of home-cooked, locally grown, fresh food for dinner. 

Kilometers walked: 19.13, definitely not a record for the Camino, but a good easy day. Not all of this was "on the Camino" as I explored around the village, stretching my legs after settling in. 

Holiday Letter

Dear family and friends,

Happy holidays! It has been a big year in my life, a lot has happened in your lives as well and the crazy world keeps spinning! But, here we are, at the beginning of 2017. I spent time with loved ones in New Mexico and Southern California this holiday season.

I started this blog in 2014 as I made my transition to international teaching in Myanmar. Here I am, two and a half years later, writing my "Happy Holidays" card to you, as I sit at my dining room table in my apartment in Yangon. :)

I hope that you have kept up with the blog, and there are certainly many details and photos in previous posts, but as I type now and reflect on the year, there are a few events that stand out. I welcomed 2016 with my parents in northern Myanmar! We explored Inle Lake and met the elephants at the Kalaw Elephant Sanctuary. 

I wrapped up my second academic year teaching Spanish here, including the pioneer (or hamster) class of Spanish 4. It was the first time that this course was offered at my school and the responsibility of setting routine, starting traditions and creating curriculum was mine. It was a project and an accomplishment, though I will never be done refining. One highlight was a visit from the Spanish embassy to my seniors' final project presentations in May.

I was delighted to return to Spain for June and July (it had been 7 years! too long!). Most of my time was spent hiking the Camino de Santiago, but I also completed my Spanish AP Language and Culture Certification in Madrid, reunited with an old grad school buddy for the Cruilla Music Festival in Barcelona and visited favorite haunts of Málaga and Granada in the south of Spain. Spain will always be my special place.

Spanish Teachers! This is just after our paella cooking class in Madrid.

English Teachers! I taught with these ladies 10 years ago! Reunion dinner in Rincón de la Victoria.

¡Profesores! We started teaching Spanish together in 2006 at the University of Washington... and we both survived grad school!

The chronic back pain that has been an off-again, on-again part of my life since I was 20 years old continues to nag at me, but I manage it with diet, exercise, yoga and, sometimes, medication. 

As the school year started again, the feeling of being overloaded and ready for a change of pace became more and more apparent in my life (What is my average teaching day like? Read this.). Like many teachers, I love what I do, but it can also be exhausting. A lot of time thinking has led me to a big decision regarding the direction of my life this year.

Announcement time! I am taking a sabbatical at the end of this academic year. I will finish teaching in Yangon in June, spend a few months in Asia, probably return to Spain (and maybe finally get to Morocco), visit folks in the states and then head south to Argentina. For now the plan is to do some traveling in Latin America and explore teaching, and other work options, there. 

Let me know if you want me to pass through your town, if you'd like to meet up to travel, or if you have contacts in South America, especially in Buenos Aires. I hope to catch up with many of you in the next year.

Peace,

CassyBee

P.S. The blog plan is to post twice a month, about every other Tuesday. Leave a comment if there is a topic (or place!) you want me to cover.

A Day on the Camino

Though many of my days on the Camino have a lot in common, I hesitate to use the word "average" in describing my experiences. Each day does bring a new surprise, challenge or mini-adventure. The experience of walking this pilgrimage is also quite personal... my average day will not necessarily look like what you have been through or will experience.

I did the first week of the Camino, from Pamplona to Navarrete with a friend and that experience was very different from the two weeks I walked alone from Astorga to Santiago. I liked both experiences and feel happy that I got to have some company and some solo time on my first Camino.

Still, many family members and friends are asking for more Camino stories and I do think I can round out my three week experience into a representative day here.
 

This is what I remember...

You wake up. Sometimes because of the light pouring in through the curtains of your private room, sometimes as a result of your alarm or perhaps because of the not-so-quiet roommates who have decided it is time to get their day started. The earliest I hit the trail was 5:30am (my last day, and yes, it was still dark, and yes, I was scared walking through the woods alone...despite logically knowing that the most dangerous place for a woman is in her own kitchen) and my latest was maybe around 10am, leaving Logroño after a bit too much wine the night before... The point is that getting up and getting out is the push every morning. Many of the albergues have check out times of 8am... it's not really a sleep-in kind of experience, but if you stay in hotels then you can leave when you like.

I splurged on a private room (10 euros) in Cacabelos.

You get coffee. Sometimes I would walk for an hour or so before stopping to caffeinate. Other times, an americano was required in order to get my legs moving. Most days you pass through quite a few towns and the Spanish are serious about their café so you are not lacking in options. One of the beauties of the Camino is that it has a very friendly set-up, with plenty of resting stop options. Most of the coffee is espresso, so small, strong servings, instead of the large, weaker cups that most people from the states are used to. Alternative milks have not made their way to Spain in abundance, so it was a rare day that I found a latte with soy milk.

A very lucky day! Soy milk latte and a gluten free chocolate muffin. 

You walk. Yeah, that's kind of the point of doing the Camino (for my Spanish rookies caminar = to walk)... but a lot happens during the walking. Maybe you talk to a friend, new or old. Maybe you put in ear buds and zone out to music. I usually preferred to be present to my surroundings, so I opted to use music to motivate me when I was really dragging or if there were noises I wanted to block out (traffic or loud school groups were usually the culprits). Maybe you think about how pretty Spain is, notice sore muscles or think about the plan for the day. Or maybe your brain just drifts...

Passing through another gorgeous Spanish town.

Steep climb as I enter Galicia

Windy path one foggy morning outside of Astorga

Follow the shells!

Wildflowers and Sunshine

You get stamps. When you start the Camino you need to get a pilgrim's passport. This shows that you are an official walker and it is necessary if you are checking into any of the albergues (hostels). It is also proof that you did the walk and you must show it in Santiago in order to receive your official certificate. You get stamps at cafes, restaurants, churches, sometimes stores and the hostels along the way. For many pilgrims this is their most treasured souvenir from the way.

Tip: Keep your passport in a plastic bag or sleeve so that it survives those occasional rain showers!

I filled up my first passport, so I had to get a second one.

Other side of my passports. 

You drink wine. Okay, so there was only one day in which a wine fountain was on the path, but it was a very cool stop. A monastery in Spain runs the winery and there is a spout especially for pilgrims. Check out their live webcam to see thirsty walkers sampling the vino (remember the time difference between where you are and Spain!).

Sampling the vino

The fountain - notice that there are two spouts, left is wine, right is water. Stay hydrated!

You walk. For me, wine during the day is counter-productive to walking, so most of the time after a water, coffee, snack or simple rest break, I would get back to the walking! My shortest day was a mere 12.5 kilometers (once again, after that night in Logroño...) and my biggest push was 28.7, when I set out from Cacabelos and finally stopped in Las Herrerías de Valcarce.

Entering Galicia.

These Columbia boots worked great for me.

You break. What worked best for me were short, frequent breaks. Sometimes I would have a snack, sometimes I would gaze out at the countryside and sometimes more coffee was in order! Below, are two pictures of donativos, these are rest spots set up for pilgrims that simply ask for a donation. There are some really lovely people on the way! 

  

You walk. Keep going! Just follow the shells and you will be okay! Promise.

This might have been the first day! Somewhere past Pamplona?

Repeat the rest and walk pattern. Remember to put your feet up (and even take off shoes and socks) during breaks. Another coffee is always a good idea. And keep drinking water!

You rest your feet. After you reach your spot for the night, there are a lot of daily to-do's! You find your lodging, drop your stuff, shower, do some hand-washing and rest your feet. There is a certain calmness in this routine and just focusing on taking care of the basics for yourself each day. I heard some horrible stories of blisters and lost toenails so feet-care is definitely a priority!

Swinging my feet off of the balcony in Portomarín

Soaking in the ice cold creek at Ribadiso

Enjoying the late evening sun and a glass of liquid sunshine in Palas de Rei.

You eat dinner. After walking all day it's pretty exciting when it is time to eat! Many local restaurants offer a pilgrim's menu, with a few courses, bread and wine for around 10 euros. This is a nice option if you want a lot of food. There are plenty of tapas options (small plates) and establishments to sample the region's wines as well. Many albergues offer kitchen use and I cooked some tasty meals of gluten free pasta and salad while on the road. 

Pulpo (octopus), served Galician style, with olive oil and smoked paprika. 

Gluten free beer and tapas in Pamplona

Hurray, tapas!

Tapas bar in Burgos

Evening entertainment. Maybe... Many pilgrims will flop into bed, read, write, listen to music, use social media and simply crash. If you have enough energy, then you meet up with fellow pilgrims, venture out for a drink, or wander around whatever small town you happen to find yourself in. Many nights I was in bed before sunset (which is quite late in summer in Spain). Oh, and don't forget to text your mom!

Martini in Burgos.

Checking out the next day's route and eating olives in Muruzábal.

Swimming pool at the hostel in Barbadelo

I believe this was Spain vs. Italy... it was quite an intense game!

There's Santiago! His likeness is all over the Camino.

You sleep. Despite the shared accommodation, basic facilities and sore muscles, I slept great on the Camino. I recommend wax earplugs to block out any noises and a sleeping sack.

 ---> So, who is joining me on my next Camino?!?

Wisdom from the Camino: Where are your dreams? Live them before dying. 

A Different Kind of Vacation: The Camino de Santiago

Uh-oh! This post is a day late! I have had it just about ready for a few days, but I guess I got distracted reading articles relating to the US elections... Anyway, we aren't going to unpack that here - this post shows and tells you a little more about the Camino and why I decided to take it on.

I first learned about the Camino de Santiago as a 20-year-old undergrad in Spanish class. I had just returned from a study abroad in Granada and I was obsessed with all things Spain. One of my professors showed us photos of her trip and as I watched the beautiful nature shots and fun times with friends go by, I thought, “I want to do that.”

The Camino de Santiago (or The Way of Saint James) dates back hundreds of years as a religious pilgrimage. There are many different paths that arrive in Santiago, but the main route is the Camino Francés. Religion continues to be present along the Way, but people now walk with other motives also. 

A tiny chapel outside of Astorga.

I opted to make my Camino goal come true in the summer of 2016. I had put it off for years for many reasons, but lack of time, as it takes five to six weeks to do the entire trek, was my main excuse. I finally decided that doing part of the Camino was better than not experiencing it at all. 

Moonset just before sunrise, a little past Rabanal el Camino.

I was also looking for a different kind of summer vacation – lounging poolside quickly loses its sparkle and I liked the idea of being active. I love living in Myanmar and Yangon is a dynamic city, but it lacks green spaces and access to nature. It felt right to get out and just walk. The time to think about life and reflect on my goals that walking all day, every day, opens up was attractive as well. Being able to use Spanish and enjoy the cuisine along the way were, of course, big pluses. 

A dusty part of the Camino on a hot day.

Pilgrims make their way through one of the many small towns.

Approaching Molinaseca. 

Due to its well-trodden history, the Camino is an ideal trek for those who do not have a lot of backpacking experience. Yes, you do need to bring all that you need for your journey on your back, but there are opportunities to supplement your supplies or replace items along the route. Many towns exist because of the Camino and small pensions, convenience stores and cafes cater to pilgrims. Though most walkers complete about 20-25 kilometers a day, I met many people who hiked more or less. 

My 15 Euro splurge on a private room in Molinaseca.

My top bunk in a hostel room for four in Cacabelos.

In the end, I trekked 367 kilometers, about half of the Camino. If you ask me about my dream vacation, I have a lot of ideas! But, walking the entire Camino de Santiago would definitely be one of my answers. 

Me and my best friend Raquel, aka my backpack, on the Camino (somewhere between Pamplona and Navarrete).