Though many of my days on the Camino have a lot in common, I hesitate to use the word "average" in describing my experiences. Each day does bring a new surprise, challenge or mini-adventure. The experience of walking this pilgrimage is also quite personal... my average day will not necessarily look like what you have been through or will experience.
I did the first week of the Camino, from Pamplona to Navarrete with a friend and that experience was very different from the two weeks I walked alone from Astorga to Santiago. I liked both experiences and feel happy that I got to have some company and some solo time on my first Camino.
Still, many family members and friends are asking for more Camino stories and I do think I can round out my three week experience into a representative day here.
This is what I remember...
You wake up. Sometimes because of the light pouring in through the curtains of your private room, sometimes as a result of your alarm or perhaps because of the not-so-quiet roommates who have decided it is time to get their day started. The earliest I hit the trail was 5:30am (my last day, and yes, it was still dark, and yes, I was scared walking through the woods alone...despite logically knowing that the most dangerous place for a woman is in her own kitchen) and my latest was maybe around 10am, leaving Logroño after a bit too much wine the night before... The point is that getting up and getting out is the push every morning. Many of the
albergues have check out times of 8am... it's not really a sleep-in kind of experience, but if you stay in hotels then you can leave when you like.
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| I splurged on a private room (10 euros) in Cacabelos. |
You get coffee. Sometimes I would walk for an hour or so before stopping to caffeinate. Other times, an americano was required in order to get my legs moving. Most days you pass through quite a few towns and the Spanish are serious about their
café so you are not lacking in options. One of the beauties of the Camino is that it has a very friendly set-up, with plenty of resting stop options. Most of the coffee is espresso, so small, strong servings, instead of the large, weaker cups that most people from the states are used to. Alternative milks have not made their way to Spain in abundance, so it was a rare day that I found a latte with soy milk.
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| A very lucky day! Soy milk latte and a gluten free chocolate muffin. |
You walk. Yeah, that's kind of the point of doing the Camino (for my Spanish rookies
caminar = to walk)... but a lot happens during the walking. Maybe you talk to a friend, new or old. Maybe you put in ear buds and zone out to music. I usually preferred to be present to my surroundings, so I opted to use music to motivate me when I was really dragging or if there were noises I wanted to block out (traffic or loud school groups were usually the culprits). Maybe you think about how pretty Spain is, notice sore muscles or think about the plan for the day. Or maybe your brain just drifts...
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| Passing through another gorgeous Spanish town. |
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| Steep climb as I enter Galicia |
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| Windy path one foggy morning outside of Astorga |
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| Follow the shells! |
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| Wildflowers and Sunshine |
You get stamps. When you start the Camino you need to get a pilgrim's passport. This shows that you are an official walker and it is necessary if you are checking into any of the
albergues (hostels). It is also proof that you did the walk and you must show it in Santiago in order to receive your official certificate. You get stamps at cafes, restaurants, churches, sometimes stores and the hostels along the way. For many pilgrims this is their most treasured souvenir from the way.
Tip: Keep your passport in a plastic bag or sleeve so that it survives those occasional rain showers!
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| I filled up my first passport, so I had to get a second one. |
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| Other side of my passports. |
You drink wine. Okay, so there was only
one day in which a wine fountain was on the path, but it was a very cool stop. A monastery in Spain runs the winery and there is a spout especially for pilgrims. Check out their
live webcam to see thirsty walkers sampling the
vino (remember the time difference between where you are and Spain!).
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| Sampling the vino |
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| The fountain - notice that there are two spouts, left is wine, right is water. Stay hydrated! |
You walk. For me, wine during the day is counter-productive to walking, so most of the time after a water, coffee, snack or simple rest break, I would get back to the walking! My shortest day was a mere 12.5 kilometers (once again, after that night in Logroño...) and my biggest push was 28.7, when I set out from Cacabelos and finally stopped in Las Herrerías de Valcarce.
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| Entering Galicia. |
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| These Columbia boots worked great for me. |
You break. What worked best for me were short, frequent breaks. Sometimes I would have a snack, sometimes I would gaze out at the countryside and sometimes more coffee was in order! Below, are two pictures of donativos, these are rest spots set up for pilgrims that simply ask for a donation. There are some really lovely people on the way!
You walk. Keep going! Just follow the shells and you will be okay! Promise.
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| This might have been the first day! Somewhere past Pamplona? |
Repeat the rest and walk pattern. Remember to put your feet up (and even take off shoes and socks) during breaks. Another coffee is always a good idea. And keep drinking water!
You rest your feet. After you reach your spot for the night, there are a lot of daily to-do's! You find your lodging, drop your stuff, shower, do some hand-washing and rest your feet. There is a certain calmness in this routine and just focusing on taking care of the basics for yourself each day. I heard some horrible stories of blisters and lost toenails so feet-care is definitely a priority!
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| Swinging my feet off of the balcony in Portomarín |
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| Soaking in the ice cold creek at Ribadiso |
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| Enjoying the late evening sun and a glass of liquid sunshine in Palas de Rei. |
You eat dinner. After walking all day it's pretty exciting when it is time to eat! Many local restaurants offer a pilgrim's menu, with a few courses, bread and wine for around 10 euros. This is a nice option if you want a lot of food. There are plenty of tapas options (small plates) and establishments to sample the region's wines as well. Many albergues offer kitchen use and I cooked some tasty meals of gluten free pasta and salad while on the road.
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| Pulpo (octopus), served Galician style, with olive oil and smoked paprika. |
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| Gluten free beer and tapas in Pamplona |
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| Hurray, tapas! |
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| Tapas bar in Burgos |
Evening entertainment. Maybe... Many pilgrims will flop into bed, read, write, listen to music, use social media and simply crash. If you have enough energy, then you meet up with fellow pilgrims, venture out for a drink, or wander around whatever small town you happen to find yourself in. Many nights I was in bed before sunset (which is quite late in summer in Spain). Oh, and don't forget to text your mom!
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| Martini in Burgos. |
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| Checking out the next day's route and eating olives in Muruzábal. |
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| Swimming pool at the hostel in Barbadelo |
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| I believe this was Spain vs. Italy... it was quite an intense game! |
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| There's Santiago! His likeness is all over the Camino. |
You sleep. Despite the shared accommodation, basic facilities and sore muscles, I slept great on the Camino. I recommend wax earplugs to block out any noises and a sleeping sack.
---> So, who is joining me on my next Camino?!?
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| Wisdom from the Camino: Where are your dreams? Live them before dying. |
