The Mysterious Mrauk U

Mrauk U. This spot has been on my Myanmar Bucket List for quite some time. Say it kinda like "M-i-ah-oo." Mrauk U is a town and living archeological, historical and religious site in Rakhine State (northwestern Myanmar). Part of its allure is that it is not an easy spot to get to, so the trip requires more than a long weekend. Spring Break, or Thingyan (Burmese New Year), finally provided some time to make the journey.

My colleague, friend and travel buddy, B, and I began the trip on a Thursday morning. It was the first day of Thingyan, the Myanmar New Year celebration, which involves the whole country slowing waaaay down, stages constructed in every neighborhood, water fights, music and general partying all over. There is a spiritual aspect to the celebration as well, but it seems to be getting lost as the country develops. I was excited to experience the holiday myself as the last two years I have traveled during the entire break (Taiwan and Vietnam). I managed to secure a taxi driver who was working and he picked us up and safely drove us to the airport. Things didn't look too crazy yet; in fact, there was no traffic which is a rarity for Yangon!

It was a travel day; we had coffee, I ate vegetarian fried rice and we hung out at the airport. We were the only foreigners on our small plane to Sittwe and the just-over-an-hour flight flew by. Sittwe's airport is tiny and after checking in with immigration (this happens even for domestic travel in Myanmar for foreigners), we found a taxi driver who took us to the Shwe Thazin Hotel. We enjoyed watching the water festival revellers from the safety of the car, checked in to our room and relaxed at the hotel. The hotel restaurant serves great food and its roof deck offers excellent views. We worked to confirm our travel plans for the next day.

Sunset over a pagoda in Sittwe

We wanted to leave early for Mrauk U since Sittwe was basically a pit-stop, but our boat driver was out partying, so we were told we couldn't leave until 10am on Friday (hey, at least they were honest). B took advantage of the late start to go for a run and I slept in and did some reading. Another taxi ride later (and I did get splashed by a young boy on my way from the hotel to the cab parked just outside) and we were aboard and headed up river!

B enjoys the ride

It's about a 5 hour journey upstream from Sittwe to Mrauk U. Our boat was basic, but we napped, read and took pictures as we motored along. It was hot, despite the soft breeze and I would definitely recommend leaving earlier in the morning, especially if you make this trip in summer (like we did).

Approaching Mrauk U

View from the pier

We arrived late afternoon to a very quiet pier in the town of Mrauk U. Our boat driver called someone and we ended up on a tuk-tuk ride to our second Shwe Thazin Hotel. We didn't expect to stay dry and we didn't. As we drove through town, we were splashed with water by the celebrating locals. We felt like quite the spectacle. Technology was secure in waterproof cases and everything else dries, so it was all good.

Below is a video of one of the Thingyan floats. This one is playing traditional music, but it's not uncommon to hear heavy metal, pop or hip hop blasting as young people ride by crowded onto trucks.

The Shwe Thazin

After checking in, having snacks and renting bicycles at a shop nearby (1,000MMK for the evening, less than one dollar), we were off to explore some of the temples in the northern group. Here are a few of my favorite shots from the first evening.

First sunset in Mrauk U

Hallway to enter

And a peek inside

Our first full day in Mrauk U was Saturday and we had arranged for a car and driver for the day. Mrauk U is spread over miles of jungle and rural areas, so I'd recommend you do this, too. We scheduled a 5:30am pick-up and requested a sunrise view. Our driver parked below a small monastery on a hill and as we climbed past, I saw monks waking up and beginning their daily routine. There was a golden pagoda and we enjoyed the surrounding views as the light of day came over the area.

Magical? Yes.

Watching the morning come in

After breakfast back at the hotel, we set off again. Our morning consisted of exploring temples, wandering through monasteries and taking in the local life that is going on all around the historical sites. We started at Koe Thaung, probably one of the most photographed temples in Mrauk U.

Entering Koe Thaung

Koe Thaung in the distance

Our driver didn't speak much English, but he was cheerful and told us the names of each spot that we visited. We stayed mostly dry, as the water fights don't tend to be near the religious structures. 

I'm here!

The sound system at one monastery. Many monasteries broadcast services and chants.

We also got to observe more celebrations. It was a lot of fun to see everyone out and about, relaxed, smiling and celebrating. It's a challenge to capture, but I got a few pictures.

Most of the time Thingyan festivities looked like this...

Kids throwing water at our passing car.

We took an early lunch and a long afternoon nap to skip out on some of the heat. I think our young driver was happy to have a chunk of time off, too. He returned late afternoon to continue showing us around and we again asked for a place with a view for the sunset. It was a pretty amazing day!

B capturing the moment

Peek-a-boo

Temple dog

View looking back at the old castle's walls

The next day we were on our own so we rented bikes and set out to explore some more! There is something so adventurous and magical about going around and discovering these special spots. 

A steep climb to a small pagoda

Nature is working to re-claim this one

Action shot captured by B!

Celebrating Thingyan (water festival)

Sunset - photo credit to B

We had booked our boat back for Monday, but due to Cyclone Maruutha and storm warnings our travel agent cancelled the boat ride and set up a car instead. It took about three hours to drive from Mrauk U back to Sittwe. It was the last day of the new year celebrations and we enjoyed watching the festivities as we passed through many small towns on the way back to the airport.

The rest of my break was spent resting and relaxing in Yangon. I'm glad that I finally got to Mrauk U and that I was lucky enough to experience Myanmar New Year; both are truly memorable experiences.

What I'm Listening to:
I first "met" Tycho at Laneway. You can stream their album, Dive, but I recommend you buy it, too.

Just Finished Eating:
I've been a fan of Forks Over Knives for a long time. Today I tried their Crispy Baked Falafels. I don't have arrowroot powder, so I subbed tapioca starch. I also threw in some turmeric, smoky Spanish paprika and a little apple cider vinegar. The "dough" is pretty dry and it was hard to form the balls, so adding a little liquid helped.

This West African Peanut Soup is creamy, without cream! Give the combo of greens, peanut butter and tomato a chance. I used bok choy (instead of collard greens) and a red curry paste (instead of the sriracha) and it turned out great! I recommend serving it over brown rice.

Just Finished Reading:
This one is actually a re-read. I don't read a lot of books more than once, but Melissa Bank is a special exception. I strongly recommend The Girls' Guide to Hunting and Fishing. This collection of inter-connected stories will have you smiling, cringing and finally cheering. You can read the beginning of the book's first story here.

Tips for Long Flights

There are loads of tips out there for surviving and thriving on long haul flights. I won't try to compile an exhaustive list here, but I will share my favorite ideas to avoid utter exhaustion, as I prep for a trip half way around the world to celebrate the holidays with family in the charming Santa Fe, New Mexico.

The list appears more or less in the order in which I do these things:

1. Request a special meal. Most flights, especially big international carriers, cater to a lot of diets. Whether you have dietary restrictions or not, requesting a specific meal gives you some choice in what you eat AND it gets you your meal delivered before the service cart takes its trip down those long aisles. 
2. Download new music, podcasts and books to your devices before departing. Make sure those devices are charged (and maybe even keep chargers or a power supply handy - I like this little guy).
3. Pack a travel pillow, comfortable layers, earplugs and an eye mask in your carry-on luggage. Closing your auditory and visual senses can really help lull you to sleep.
4. Bring some vitamin D, hand wipes and lotion on the plane. These things help me feel clean and stay healthy (I always have snacks and teabags too).
5. Hydrate. This is so important; I know it's tempting to take advantage of the free booze... and it may help you sleep at first, but it will mess with your sleep patterns in the long run and you will arrive feeling much more run-down if you have imbibed. 
6. Be patient and have fun! The flight is part of your trip! 

What do you do to enjoy long flights? Post below! :) 

Not an example of traveling light, but this was taken when I was moving to Myanmar!

Recipe of the Week:
Simple Vegan Quiche! What?!? I made this for my Vegans Anonymous club and it was a hit! I was never a big quiche-lover, but this version offers a savory breakfast option without use of eggs or cream (it's probably a lot lower calorie too). The hashbrown crust makes it delicious and gluten free as well!

Just finished reading:
Burmese Days by George Orwell, a classic, albeit not exactly a heart-lifting or encouraging novel. Still, a recommendation for anyone interested in Myanmar.

The Uncommon Reader by Alan Bennett, another young adult novel. This is a fun fiction, what-if, story about the Queen (of England) and how she begins to become distracted from her royal duties because of... books!

The Art of Hearing Heartbeats by Jan-Philipp Senker, a more recent novel, set in Kalaw, Myanmar. My parents and I visited Kalaw last year and so I could really imagine the village and surrounding natural beauty described. This is a work of fiction, a bit of a mystery, but really an epic love story, that also reveals a lot about the culture and people of Burma. I started reading this on a Saturday night and finished less than 3 days later - it was quite the story!

I'll be flying a lot over the holidays, so look for more book recs coming in the new year!

Los lugares turísticos en Myanmar

Esta semana ofrezco algo para mis amigos hispanohablantes. El siguiente es un proyecto de mi clase de Español 4. Lo publicamos en Edmodo y compartimos conversación con otros estudiantes alrededor del mundo. ¡Disfruta!

• Los lugares turísticos en Myanmar

Por nuestro tema elegimos cuatro lugares preciosos en Myanmar. Hay mucho que podemos describir pero empezamos con los lugares turísticos que les pueden interesar cuando vengan a este maravilloso país. Esperamos que les interesen lo que hemos escrito y estamos entusiasmados para contestar sus preguntas abajo.

Kyaikhteeyo (La piedra dorada)

-       Profe

Kyaikhteeyo, en myanmar, o la piedra dorada, es un lugar especial. A la vista es exactamente como se imagina, una piedra grande y dorada. Está encima de una montaña unas horas de Yangon. Su aspecto brillante llama la atención, pero su historia es mucho más interesante.

Los budistas cuentan que había un viajero que conoció al Buda y él le dio al hombre dos de sus pelos como reliquia por su homenaje. Después se hizo lo que ahora reconocemos como Kyaikhteeyo, un área sagrada. Los dos pelos hacen que la piedra flota y no se cae de la montaña. ¡Es realmente increíble!

Muchos budistas quieren visitar este lugar especial para rezar o meditar. Los turistas vienen para observar, sacar fotos y experimentar un poco de la cultura myanmara.

Hay dos maneras para subir al cima, en camión o a pie. Cada opción ofrece su propia experiencia y aventura. En al camión estás al aire libre y el carro va rápidamente por las curvas mientras sube. La primera vez que fui subí en el camión y el cielo abrió y cayeron gotas de agua todo el rato que subíamos.

La segunda vez que visité la piedra dorada, caminé para llegar al punto más alto. La excursión tomó seis horas pero las vistas eran impresionantes y había muchos lugares a dónde parar y descansar.

Si visitas Myanmar, recomiendo que no olvides de conocer Kyaikhteeyo.

El lago Inle

• estudiante X

El próximo lugar que recomendamos es Inle. Inle es un lago en el estado de Shan. Lo interesante sobre este lugar es que la gente vive encima del lago en barcos y casas altas. Típicamente, esos barcos y casas son hechos de madera. Es, básicamente, un pueblo en el agua. ¡Todos deben visitarlo! Recomendamos que vayan allí en noviembre o diciembre. No hace mucho calor ni frío durante esos meses. A cambio, hace un poco de fresco (mi clima favorito).  Normalmente, los turistas vuelan desde Yangon a Heho por avión y después van a Inle en coche o autobús.

Ngapali

• estudiante M

En Myanmar, hay tres playas famosas: Chaung Tha, Ngwe Saung y Ngapali. Chaung Tha y Ngwe Saung están en la región Ayeyarwaddy en el sur de Myanmar y Ngapali está en el estado Rakhine al oeste.

La playa que nos gusta más es Ngapali en el estado Rakhine por su arena blanca y agua cristal.

Puedes viajar a Ngapali por avión de Yangon (la ciudad más grande) o Nay Pyi Daw (la capital). El vuelo dura 55 minutos a Thandwe Aeropuerto. El pueblo Ngapali está a 15 minutos en coche de la playa.

La comida de Ngapali, Thandwe es muy deliciosa. Tiene muchos mariscos y pescados por ser una playa. Los hoteles tienen restaurantes buenos también pero la comida cuesta mucho más que en los restaurantes del pueblo de Thandwe.

La marea está alta durante la noche y el mediodía desde la 1 hasta las 3. Podemos nadar en el mar por la la mañana o por la tarde. ¡Pero, podemos tomar el sol todo el día!

Hay muchas actividades que puedes hacer en Ngapali también. Unos hoteles ofrecen equipo para kayak, parasail, bucear, andar en barco o visitar las islas cercanas.

Bagan

• estudiante A

Bagan es una ciudad antigua de Myanmar. Del siglo nueve a siglo trece, Bagan fue la ciudad capital de Myanmar. Hay más de 10,000 templos budistas en la región en el pasado pero ahora, hay solo 2200 templos y pagodas en la zona. Rey Pyinbya encontró la ciudad en el siglo siete. Después, en el siglo nueve, los birmanos entraron en la ciudad y en el siglo diez, Bagan se convirtió en la ciudad capital de los birmanos. Bagan era la ciudad que tenía muchas oportunidades educativas  y la religión del budismo era muy fuerte. El reino de Bagan se cayó en el siglo 12 cuando los mongoles lo atacaron.

Hoy Bagan es un lugar popular entre los extranjeros que están visitando Myanmar. La gente viene para las vistas de las puestas del sol, para explorar las ruinas de la ciudad y para aprender sobre la historia de Bagan. Ahora, Bagan tiene muchas hoteles y restaurantes para las visitantes, especialmente para los extranjeros. No vas a arrepentir tu experiencia en Bagan. Es definitivamente un viaje especial.   

More on Yangon

And this post takes us back to life in Yangon!

Secondary school faculty - I'm in the back shady spot wearing my sunglasses!

One annual event in my life is traveling to Bangkok for my visa renewal. Yes, I have to visit the Myanmar embassy in Bangkok, Thailand in order to renew my Myanmar work visa... The good news about this yearly errand is that I get a trip to Bangkok! I usually shop, seek out health food stores for hard to find items, take care of doctor appointments, eat great food and sometimes sit by a pool, if time allows! This year was special because my former colleague, J, who now lives in Chiang Mai, Thailand, met me. It was so fun to catch up, do yoga and discover a great new health food store and restaurant, Lemon Farm, together. We weren't very good about taking pictures (we were having too much fun) and Bangkok isn't "new" to me anymore, so I guess I forget, but here is what captured my interest enough to pull out the camera.

My iced Americano, with a dash of rice milk, served in a pitcher! 

The cafe had cute cat art. Can you see me in the reflection?

A few days after I returned (one year visa in passport!), quarter one ended. This means grading, writing individual narrative comments for each and every one of my students and submitting everything for report cards. There is always something to do when you are a teacher. 

Playing bananagrams with my students!

Quarter one finishes with a Myanmar tradition: Homage Day. Students and teachers don traditional dress and students honor their teachers at a special assembly, featuring speeches, music, dances and singing. The culminating moment is when students' voices join in unison to thank their teachers and ask them to forgive them for any mistakes (in Myanmar language).

You already know what happens next! I book it to the airport and jet off to Bangkok to meet Y for our reunion on Koh Chang.

Upon returning to Yangon, there was a new quarter to start, parent-student-teacher conferences to have and friends to catch up with. The school community here is special. Our social committee is very active, sponsoring all kinds of events to explore the city and for us to just hang out with each other. However, a few times a year we celebrate our support staff, the cleaners and guards who help keep our school shining and safe throughout the year. These photos are from our Potluck and Bowling event at the end of October.

Right Track Bowling is a 30 minute walk from my apartment/the school.

Playing a game, yes, betting 3,000 kyats was involved!

In this winner-takes-all game the final rolls of the dice are intense!

I came upon this cute little church while wandering in downtown one weekend. Somewhere in here I also saw a great Italian movie at the international film festival, La grande bellezza. An epic story set in lovely Italy.

This coffee store is in my neighborhood, but it is never open. Can you see why it caught my eye?

Another social committee event - watching old silent films set to Radiohead.

And then came Halloween! My favorite holiday was celebrated with a Vegans Anonymous potluck and dress-up days at school.

Gluten free vegan witch finger sugar cookies

Vegan potluck spread

Alice, on her way to school. No getting distracted by white rabbits allowed!

Teachers dress up like students day! Sporting the school uniform.

Just finished reading:
Moon Over Manifest by Clare Vanderpool; a children's book recommended to me by a friend/former colleague. An entertaining story with a spirited young protagonist, historical fiction.

Twilight Over Burma: My Life as a Shan Princess by Inge Sargent; her autobiographical account of her marriage to a Shan Prince and her time in Burma. This one is up for discussion at book club next week! There is also a film and a quick internet search displays a lot of articles about the controversy this book has encountered.

Just finished eating:
If you knew me when I was a kid... or teenager... or, okay, okay, a young adult, then you know my favorite food is/was Macaroni and Cheese. Since going gluten and dairy free in 2009 for health reasons, there has not been a lot of carb-y, cheesy goodness in my life. Which is absolutely worthwhile because I no longer suffer from daily stomach pain. However, I am always looking for creative ways to get my old fix. This vegan gf version of my old favorite does the trick.

Oh, and the witch fingers!

What I'm Listening to:
Cat Power! I had the pleasure of seeing her live at Cruilla this July in Barcelona and she is my favorite discovery from a weekend full of amazing live music.

Interview of the Week:
Conor Oberst (Bright Eyes, Monsters of Folk, Desaparecidos) and Matt Berninger (The National) get together to talk about the song-writing process and music in general! I felt like I was at a bar overhearing an intimate chat at the next table. This is also one of my new favorite podcasts. 

A Worthwhile Cause:
One of my colleagues and friends is trying to enact real change in the population of stray animals in our neighborhood with a catch, neuter and release program. It's the season of giving, so why not chip in a little to help the pups and kitties? A few US dollars goes a long way in Myanmar!

Ha ha, definitely not in Yangon! A throwback to Thanksgiving weekend last year in Ngwe Saung...
Photo credit to T and her fancy camera!

I hope everyone has a happy Thanksgiving! I am already starting to think about the end of the quarter, finals and holidays with my family!