There was an important decision on today's route: La Pola or Hospitales. I learned that neither is the more authentic or original route, but that both are Primitivo routes. Back in the day pilgrims tended to take La Pola in winter or bad weather (it doesn't climb as high) and Hospitales in the summer (it is more intense in ups and downs, but shaves off a few k). When the Primitivo was first being walked pilgrims sometimes got lost on the Hospitales route (and some died... notice how I am telling mom and dad this now, after I've done it...Hi guys!!!) or were robbed. Even now, it's not recommended to take this route in bad weather and even on nice days you should go with a buddy. Good thing I have a Primitivo family. :) We organized, exchanged phone numbers and looked after each other throughout the day. We are from Spain, Italy, Argentina, Canada and the US.
Alfonso II ordered that the hospitals be built so he pilgrims would have safe stopovers, though now there are only ruins left. Hospitales is probably the most famous part of the Primitivo. One seasoned pilgrim told me, "for me, walking the Primitivo means taking Hospitales."
I would say it's the Primitivo's crown jewel, but also considered by some to be its thorn, since it is long and there are considerable climbs up and steep descents. It's other feature is that there are really no services all day, so you must carry all your own food and water (remember that the Camino Francés is known for its frequent and abundant services).
It was a long day. I was intimidated before I even began. I am quite confident in my ability to research, write, teach, speak...to be determined, and I guess it's that last one I am tapping on days like today.
(My friends approach me at a rest stop.)
Gorgeous and more gorgeous.
Below: the "main" street of one "town." Note the chickens.
Sometimes I can't believe I am here. It's fascinating to watch the scenery change over the course of the day.
I arrived at about 5:15, again another long day. I was happily greeted by family members and the special news of today is that I have my own room!
Today completes week FOUR on the Camino and I have shared a room every single night since I began. I splurged on this luxury single for €20. I have sheets! And towels! And a key to my very own space!!! I think I deserve it. :) Here's to a good night's sleep and another epic day tomorrow.
Kilometers walked: 28.64 (Fitbit), 31.42 (Buen Camino app). I don't have the numbers on how much we climbed...but a lot!!!
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