Day 28: Campiello - Berducedo

Sleep is important. M says that your rest the night before determines the quality of your walk the next day. I agree. I had great sleep last night and today was amazing. It was one of my top Camino days so far. 

There was an important decision on today's route: La Pola or Hospitales. I learned that neither is the more authentic or original route, but that both are Primitivo routes. Back in the day pilgrims tended to take La Pola in winter or bad weather (it doesn't climb as high) and Hospitales in the summer (it is more intense in ups and downs, but shaves off a few k). When the Primitivo was first being walked pilgrims sometimes got lost on the Hospitales route (and some died... notice how I am telling mom and dad this now, after I've done it...Hi guys!!!) or were robbed. Even now, it's not recommended to take this route in bad weather and even on nice days you should go with a buddy. Good thing I have a Primitivo family. :) We organized, exchanged phone numbers and looked after each other throughout the day. We are from Spain, Italy, Argentina, Canada and the US. 

Alfonso II ordered that the hospitals be built so he pilgrims would have safe stopovers, though now there are only ruins left. Hospitales is probably the most famous part of the Primitivo. One seasoned pilgrim told me, "for me, walking the Primitivo means taking Hospitales." 

I would say it's the Primitivo's crown jewel, but also considered by some to be its thorn, since it is long and there are considerable climbs up and steep descents. It's other feature is that there are really no services all day, so you must carry all your own food and water (remember that the Camino Francés is known for its frequent and abundant services). 

It was a long day. I was intimidated before I even began. I am quite confident in my ability to research, write, teach, speak...to be determined, and I guess it's that last one I am tapping on days like today. 

(My friends approach me at a rest stop.)

Gorgeous and more gorgeous. 

Below: the "main" street of one "town." Note the chickens. 

Sometimes I can't believe I am here. It's fascinating to watch the scenery change over the course of the day. 

I arrived at about 5:15, again another long day. I was happily greeted by family members and the special news of today is that I have my own room! 

Today completes week FOUR on the Camino and I have shared a room every single night since I began. I splurged on this luxury single for €20. I have sheets! And towels! And a key to my very own space!!! I think I deserve it. :) Here's to a good night's sleep and another epic day tomorrow. 

Kilometers walked: 28.64 (Fitbit), 31.42 (Buen Camino app). I don't have the numbers on how much we climbed...but a lot!!!

Day 27: Bodenaya - Campiello

Despite the super groovy vibes, I didn't sleep well last night. Worries danced in my brain as I lay in bed (yes, that can happen even on the Camino), I had weird dreams, I woke up in the middle of the night and even when David (our hospitalero) woke us up with gentle music and the sweet smell of fresh coffee, I didn't feel so fresh myself. Coffee and conversation helped. 

David is a super-hospitalero and had washed, dried and folded all of our clothes for us. 

I hugged David and said goodbye to this sweet place. 

It was the first rainy day in quite awhile and the first water I had seen on the Primitivo. Squish-squash as I went through the mud, rain jacket on and rain cover on my backpack. The mist made the mountains look pretty magical. There is a reason everything is all green!

Most of the path was okay, but some parts were quite muddy. Check out the mud and mushrooms here. 

I stopped to dry out and warm up with a tea in Tineo. I considered staying, but M, a lively and fast-walking woman from Madrid told me to move on!

Acorns underfoot. 

Wildflowers:

After the enchanted forest section of the walk, I was back in fields, passing cows. I had a snack sitting on a big, flat rock in the middle of the Camino and soaked in the sun (now out) and view. I felt like I was in a milk commercial (most of Spain's milk comes from this region of Spain).

I arrived at about 4... earlier than the last couple of days, but not really early. Oh well. I still had some time to rest, write and gear up for tomorrow. It's going to be another BIG day!

Kilometers walked: 26.41 (Fitbit), 25.37 (Buen Camino app). Some guidebooks quote 27...