Day 29: Berducedo - Grandas de Salime

I slept great in my little room and headed out just before dawn with B, from Oregon. The misty rain felt refreshing and the black sky turned dark blue and then lighter still. We carefully followed the shells. 

We settled into our own paces and I walked ahead. We met again at a home in La Mesa, the family opened it up to pilgrims for breakfast and coffee in exchange for a donation. This kind of generosity is common on the Camino. The second cup of strong coffee helped propel me up a hill and soon there was a diversion. My app recommended I take it, so I did. I felt like I was looking down at a sea of clouds. 

Somehow I caught up with M (or she caught up with me?) and we walked together for a bit. She took this shot of me!

There are very hard parts of walking each day. The downhill today was long and brutal. The beauty of the Primitivo is you get distracted by how amazing your surroundings are! I feel so fortunate to be here. 

From the top I could see a dam below and the path slowly snaked its way down. 

I walked over it!

And the Camino took us back up... The sun contributed its part - gorgeous light sparkling through the leaves to the shade or an extra hot challenge boiling down... depending on which section of the path you were on. ;)

The beauty of fall is here on the Primitivo. 

I guess I should get to the big decision of today. Last night the family/tribe/group of us that had been coinciding called ahead to reserve in Castro. I arrived here just about 3, hot, tired and ready to rest (and still 5-8 k from Castro depending which map you look at). I decided to stay. It was a tough call because I will miss my friends, but one of the most important lessons (to me) of the Camino is that we all must walk our own way. I decided to stay in this lovely town and I made new friends from France and Italy. We are all cooking and sharing dinner (well, M, the Italian is taking charge, but how perfect that there will be gluten-free vegan pasta?). I helped prep some veggies. 

I also met another gluten-free blogger from France. Check out her voyage on the Camino del Norte and then Primitivo here: https://www.myatlas.com/colinejardin/go-to-camino-del-norte

It's a nice, clean and modern albergue and I know I made the right call to have a shorter day today. I hope I'll see old friends and stay in touch with new ones tomorrow. 

Kilometers walked: 25.54 (Fitbit), 20.08 (Buen Camino app). This time Fitbit wins! I read that the diversion I took added 4 k.  

Day 28: Campiello - Berducedo

Sleep is important. M says that your rest the night before determines the quality of your walk the next day. I agree. I had great sleep last night and today was amazing. It was one of my top Camino days so far. 

There was an important decision on today's route: La Pola or Hospitales. I learned that neither is the more authentic or original route, but that both are Primitivo routes. Back in the day pilgrims tended to take La Pola in winter or bad weather (it doesn't climb as high) and Hospitales in the summer (it is more intense in ups and downs, but shaves off a few k). When the Primitivo was first being walked pilgrims sometimes got lost on the Hospitales route (and some died... notice how I am telling mom and dad this now, after I've done it...Hi guys!!!) or were robbed. Even now, it's not recommended to take this route in bad weather and even on nice days you should go with a buddy. Good thing I have a Primitivo family. :) We organized, exchanged phone numbers and looked after each other throughout the day. We are from Spain, Italy, Argentina, Canada and the US. 

Alfonso II ordered that the hospitals be built so he pilgrims would have safe stopovers, though now there are only ruins left. Hospitales is probably the most famous part of the Primitivo. One seasoned pilgrim told me, "for me, walking the Primitivo means taking Hospitales." 

I would say it's the Primitivo's crown jewel, but also considered by some to be its thorn, since it is long and there are considerable climbs up and steep descents. It's other feature is that there are really no services all day, so you must carry all your own food and water (remember that the Camino Francés is known for its frequent and abundant services). 

It was a long day. I was intimidated before I even began. I am quite confident in my ability to research, write, teach, speak...to be determined, and I guess it's that last one I am tapping on days like today. 

(My friends approach me at a rest stop.)

Gorgeous and more gorgeous. 

Below: the "main" street of one "town." Note the chickens. 

Sometimes I can't believe I am here. It's fascinating to watch the scenery change over the course of the day. 

I arrived at about 5:15, again another long day. I was happily greeted by family members and the special news of today is that I have my own room! 

Today completes week FOUR on the Camino and I have shared a room every single night since I began. I splurged on this luxury single for €20. I have sheets! And towels! And a key to my very own space!!! I think I deserve it. :) Here's to a good night's sleep and another epic day tomorrow. 

Kilometers walked: 28.64 (Fitbit), 31.42 (Buen Camino app). I don't have the numbers on how much we climbed...but a lot!!!