Holiday Letter

Dear family and friends,

Happy holidays! It has been a big year in my life, a lot has happened in your lives as well and the crazy world keeps spinning! But, here we are, at the beginning of 2017. I spent time with loved ones in New Mexico and Southern California this holiday season.

I started this blog in 2014 as I made my transition to international teaching in Myanmar. Here I am, two and a half years later, writing my "Happy Holidays" card to you, as I sit at my dining room table in my apartment in Yangon. :)

I hope that you have kept up with the blog, and there are certainly many details and photos in previous posts, but as I type now and reflect on the year, there are a few events that stand out. I welcomed 2016 with my parents in northern Myanmar! We explored Inle Lake and met the elephants at the Kalaw Elephant Sanctuary. 

I wrapped up my second academic year teaching Spanish here, including the pioneer (or hamster) class of Spanish 4. It was the first time that this course was offered at my school and the responsibility of setting routine, starting traditions and creating curriculum was mine. It was a project and an accomplishment, though I will never be done refining. One highlight was a visit from the Spanish embassy to my seniors' final project presentations in May.

I was delighted to return to Spain for June and July (it had been 7 years! too long!). Most of my time was spent hiking the Camino de Santiago, but I also completed my Spanish AP Language and Culture Certification in Madrid, reunited with an old grad school buddy for the Cruilla Music Festival in Barcelona and visited favorite haunts of Málaga and Granada in the south of Spain. Spain will always be my special place.

Spanish Teachers! This is just after our paella cooking class in Madrid.

English Teachers! I taught with these ladies 10 years ago! Reunion dinner in Rincón de la Victoria.

¡Profesores! We started teaching Spanish together in 2006 at the University of Washington... and we both survived grad school!

The chronic back pain that has been an off-again, on-again part of my life since I was 20 years old continues to nag at me, but I manage it with diet, exercise, yoga and, sometimes, medication. 

As the school year started again, the feeling of being overloaded and ready for a change of pace became more and more apparent in my life (What is my average teaching day like? Read this.). Like many teachers, I love what I do, but it can also be exhausting. A lot of time thinking has led me to a big decision regarding the direction of my life this year.

Announcement time! I am taking a sabbatical at the end of this academic year. I will finish teaching in Yangon in June, spend a few months in Asia, probably return to Spain (and maybe finally get to Morocco), visit folks in the states and then head south to Argentina. For now the plan is to do some traveling in Latin America and explore teaching, and other work options, there. 

Let me know if you want me to pass through your town, if you'd like to meet up to travel, or if you have contacts in South America, especially in Buenos Aires. I hope to catch up with many of you in the next year.

Peace,

CassyBee

P.S. The blog plan is to post twice a month, about every other Tuesday. Leave a comment if there is a topic (or place!) you want me to cover.

Santa Fe Style

Welcome back from the holidays and into 2017! More on this year coming soon, but for now, I take you back to some favorite spots from my trip to Santa Fe this holiday season.

Santa Fe is a great town for tourists, but the main reason I go is to visit my parents. There are always lots of dog walks, favorite foods, hanging out and catching up. I'll highlight some great restaurants here that are vegan and gluten free friendly and some ideas for activities around town.

A snowy Christmas Day dog walk with Mom and Bert

Perhaps these ideas will help you on your next visit to Santa Fe!

Food:

In order to conquer the jet lag, I make frequent visits to the nearby Java Joe's. My preferred drink is the spicy chai, with almond milk and a couple of shots of espresso. This place has three types of chai (sweet, spicy and ginger) and lots of options for milk.

El Comal is a cozy Mexican restaurant near my parents' house. It serves great Mexican food and makes incredible (and very large) glasses of sangria. I had the vegetarian enchiladas (no cheese) and they were delicious.

Mom and Dad and Beverages

After some errands, Ma & Pa and I visited Valentina's for lunch. Another homestyle Mexican place, with delicious food. I enjoyed the Camarones al mojo de ajo (Shrimp in garlic sauce), that came with rice, beans, grilled veggies and corn tortillas.

¡Qué rico!

Harry's Roadhouse offers an inviting restaurant space and many drinks and menu options. Some of the dishes are classic, but classy pub fare while others are more traditionally southwest. If you are there in nice weather, request to sit out on there patio.

On the day after Christmas we went to Tune-Up Cafe. This is a tiny, funky spot. I loved the Moroccan Stew and hot cider spiked with port and fruit, but be forewarned that it is not the place if you want a quiet or relaxing meal.

My parents' favorite Mexican fast food place is Burrito Spot. It's basically fast food, but I had some tasty bean tostadas and you can't argue with the price!

Activities:

Mom and I picked up an old tradition with tickets to the Nutcracker at the Lensic. The Lensic is a beautiful historic theater and the production was beautiful. Thanks, Mom!

Dad's Christmas present to us "kids" was an afternoon at the interactive art exhibit/mystery treasure hunt at Meow Wolf. It's a difficult place to describe and I actually think you wouldn't want to know too much before checking it out, but if you are ready for a different afternoon, go!

Sis and I howling at Meow Wolf

I always love picking up some local produce and checking out the arts and handicrafts at the Santa Fe Farmer's Market. Some favorites from this visit were fresh garlic, fingerling potatoes and goat's cheese.

The Jean Cocteau is a historic theater, but what gives it an extra twist of interest is that it belongs to George R. R. Martin. It shows mostly independent films, but the new episodes of Game of Thrones also premier there before HBO! We saw She Sings to the Stars, which I recommend if you get the chance to watch it.

A stroll around the historic downtown is a must-do on any visit to Santa Fe. A few snaps from our night outing of the plaza and church.

Going out:

I don't think that Santa Fe is world famous for its nightlife, but there are some fun spots for those who head out after dark. The "kids" visited Secreto Lounge inside the St. Francis Hotel and warmed up in front of an open fireplace at Del Charro.

Decked in plaid, ready to go out!

Just finished reading:

Chameleon in a Candy Store - This is the sequel to Diary of an Oxygen Thief. In it, you learn how the author-character published and publicized his first book and how he entered the world of online dating. I read the whole thing on my international trip from Yangon to LA.

Reading Again: 

My book club selected Ruth Ozeki's A Tale for the Time Being for our January book. It's a longer one, but totally worth it and I am enjoying my second run-through.

Tips for Long Flights

There are loads of tips out there for surviving and thriving on long haul flights. I won't try to compile an exhaustive list here, but I will share my favorite ideas to avoid utter exhaustion, as I prep for a trip half way around the world to celebrate the holidays with family in the charming Santa Fe, New Mexico.

The list appears more or less in the order in which I do these things:

1. Request a special meal. Most flights, especially big international carriers, cater to a lot of diets. Whether you have dietary restrictions or not, requesting a specific meal gives you some choice in what you eat AND it gets you your meal delivered before the service cart takes its trip down those long aisles. 
2. Download new music, podcasts and books to your devices before departing. Make sure those devices are charged (and maybe even keep chargers or a power supply handy - I like this little guy).
3. Pack a travel pillow, comfortable layers, earplugs and an eye mask in your carry-on luggage. Closing your auditory and visual senses can really help lull you to sleep.
4. Bring some vitamin D, hand wipes and lotion on the plane. These things help me feel clean and stay healthy (I always have snacks and teabags too).
5. Hydrate. This is so important; I know it's tempting to take advantage of the free booze... and it may help you sleep at first, but it will mess with your sleep patterns in the long run and you will arrive feeling much more run-down if you have imbibed. 
6. Be patient and have fun! The flight is part of your trip! 

What do you do to enjoy long flights? Post below! :) 

Not an example of traveling light, but this was taken when I was moving to Myanmar!

Recipe of the Week:
Simple Vegan Quiche! What?!? I made this for my Vegans Anonymous club and it was a hit! I was never a big quiche-lover, but this version offers a savory breakfast option without use of eggs or cream (it's probably a lot lower calorie too). The hashbrown crust makes it delicious and gluten free as well!

Just finished reading:
Burmese Days by George Orwell, a classic, albeit not exactly a heart-lifting or encouraging novel. Still, a recommendation for anyone interested in Myanmar.

The Uncommon Reader by Alan Bennett, another young adult novel. This is a fun fiction, what-if, story about the Queen (of England) and how she begins to become distracted from her royal duties because of... books!

The Art of Hearing Heartbeats by Jan-Philipp Senker, a more recent novel, set in Kalaw, Myanmar. My parents and I visited Kalaw last year and so I could really imagine the village and surrounding natural beauty described. This is a work of fiction, a bit of a mystery, but really an epic love story, that also reveals a lot about the culture and people of Burma. I started reading this on a Saturday night and finished less than 3 days later - it was quite the story!

I'll be flying a lot over the holidays, so look for more book recs coming in the new year!

A Day in my Teacher Life

Today is Wednesday December 7, 2016. I published my post about a Day on the Camino yesterday and I came home from work today with the best intentions - to put away the organic produce from my weekly delivery and to then work out. However, I felt my energy draining and my push waning as I sorted and organized the vegetables. It was almost 5 o'clock and all I wanted to do was sit down and be quiet for a few minutes, in ears, body and mind.

While I took a break under my blue mosquito net I reflected on the day. I hadn't had a moment to myself unless you counted while I was getting ready in the morning, going to the bathroom or checking email during my prep period!

Anyway, I thought I would share today, as a complement to the other post and for my non-teacher friends who wonder what I get up to all day.

6:30am - The alarm goes off! Here we go the day is starting! I feel pretty rested and I'm happy when I wake up. I put on Chvrches, make coffee, blend a smoothie and get ready for the school day.

7:30 - I arrive at school. The commute is amazing; I walk across the street. I drop my stuff in my classroom, switch on the air conditioning and go to fill my water bottle, pick up copies and order sushi for lunch.

7:40 - A Spanish 2 student finds me in the main office placing my lunch order... oops! I was supposed to meet her to show her part of a film that she missed. I rush back to the classroom and get the movie started so she can get caught up. A few other students wander in and also watch. I check my work email, load my gradebook and answer a few What's app texts from friends.

7:55 - Spanish 2 begins. I let the whole class watch a repeat of the first few minutes as they settle in. Then, we move through a warmer, I return their Diaries and Classroom Citizenship evaluations and we move into questions about the final. This is a high-achieving class - they have a lot and some good ones! For almost an hour, we have a back-and-forth of questions and clarifications. They are really focused and I love Spanish. It's a good time.

Just before 9am we move into a game which reviews verb conjugations. It's a lot of fun and this leads us up to the end of class at 9:29. Yes, that is what time first block ends. At this point, I have a whole seven minutes to transition between classes, take care of personal needs (water, bathroom) and touch base with students.

9:36 - Spanish 1 begins. I return their Diaries (Yes, there has been a lot of grading lately, and, yes, there is always a lot of grading.) and we move into homework correction. They've been working through a review packet in preparation for the final exam. We do a review activity and play a game in this class as well.

11:10 - Class finishes and it's time for lunch. Today I have a lunch meeting with some Student Council representatives and any high schooler who wants to pop in and give feedback about the uniform. We can't promise to make changes, but part of StuCo's role is to hear the student body's voice and present opinions and concerns to administration. I pick up my sushi delivery and help moderate the meeting until 11:50. After the meeting ends, I chat with my three StuCo reps about how it went. Then, they move on to class. I eat a few more bites of my lunch and look at my email.

12:03 - My colleague, former language teacher in the Chinese department, stops by for a Professional Learning Community. We discuss our recent integration and field trip, book ordering, plans for next year and more. I type up our notes and post them to our Google page.

During my "free" period, I float between emails, grading some late work, an impromptu meeting with my principal and refilling tea and then deciding to go for a small cup of coffee.

1:35 - Here comes my second Spanish 1 class! We repeat much of the previous lesson, but it is later in the day and every class is different, so I differentiate.

3:10 - School's out! I organize my room a little and my StuCo kids begin entering for our meeting. A Spanish 3 student stops by to make up a quiz and then we are rolling into our meeting. It's an intense one today, with one member resigning (we knew she was going to) and a lot of wrap up from first semester.

4:40 - The meeting wraps up and I pack up! I stop on the ground floor of the school to pick up my Fresco deliver box and run into some of the seniors who are excited to be finishing a music/choir rehearsal. I remind a Spanish 4 student about our coffee plan for tomorrow and carry my box home. I text my neighbor and she comes down so that we can divvy up the beautiful locally grown and fairly purchased products: carrots, potatoes, leeks, fennel, basil, radishes, zucchini flowers, rocket and more. I store this away.

5:15 - I flop down on my bed and do some of the thinking that I mentioned at the start of this post. :D
I love my job, but I would also like to have a little energy left over at the end of the day. I opted to read for a little bit, write this blog, cook some healthy food and finish watching A Day Without a Mexican instead of pushing on to the gym. It's important to me to have some quiet time.

Anyway, that's just one day. A lot happens besides teaching and I hope that it was informative for you to learn a little bit about what goes on for me at school. A busy day, yes, but not untypical. It's 8:37 now and I am going to shower, stretch, tidy up a bit, read and c-r-a-s-h. Tomorrow will be same-same, but different.

And please do grant me some extra credit points for two posts this week! :)

A Day on the Camino

Though many of my days on the Camino have a lot in common, I hesitate to use the word "average" in describing my experiences. Each day does bring a new surprise, challenge or mini-adventure. The experience of walking this pilgrimage is also quite personal... my average day will not necessarily look like what you have been through or will experience.

I did the first week of the Camino, from Pamplona to Navarrete with a friend and that experience was very different from the two weeks I walked alone from Astorga to Santiago. I liked both experiences and feel happy that I got to have some company and some solo time on my first Camino.

Still, many family members and friends are asking for more Camino stories and I do think I can round out my three week experience into a representative day here.
 

This is what I remember...

You wake up. Sometimes because of the light pouring in through the curtains of your private room, sometimes as a result of your alarm or perhaps because of the not-so-quiet roommates who have decided it is time to get their day started. The earliest I hit the trail was 5:30am (my last day, and yes, it was still dark, and yes, I was scared walking through the woods alone...despite logically knowing that the most dangerous place for a woman is in her own kitchen) and my latest was maybe around 10am, leaving Logroño after a bit too much wine the night before... The point is that getting up and getting out is the push every morning. Many of the albergues have check out times of 8am... it's not really a sleep-in kind of experience, but if you stay in hotels then you can leave when you like.

I splurged on a private room (10 euros) in Cacabelos.

You get coffee. Sometimes I would walk for an hour or so before stopping to caffeinate. Other times, an americano was required in order to get my legs moving. Most days you pass through quite a few towns and the Spanish are serious about their café so you are not lacking in options. One of the beauties of the Camino is that it has a very friendly set-up, with plenty of resting stop options. Most of the coffee is espresso, so small, strong servings, instead of the large, weaker cups that most people from the states are used to. Alternative milks have not made their way to Spain in abundance, so it was a rare day that I found a latte with soy milk.

A very lucky day! Soy milk latte and a gluten free chocolate muffin. 

You walk. Yeah, that's kind of the point of doing the Camino (for my Spanish rookies caminar = to walk)... but a lot happens during the walking. Maybe you talk to a friend, new or old. Maybe you put in ear buds and zone out to music. I usually preferred to be present to my surroundings, so I opted to use music to motivate me when I was really dragging or if there were noises I wanted to block out (traffic or loud school groups were usually the culprits). Maybe you think about how pretty Spain is, notice sore muscles or think about the plan for the day. Or maybe your brain just drifts...

Passing through another gorgeous Spanish town.

Steep climb as I enter Galicia

Windy path one foggy morning outside of Astorga

Follow the shells!

Wildflowers and Sunshine

You get stamps. When you start the Camino you need to get a pilgrim's passport. This shows that you are an official walker and it is necessary if you are checking into any of the albergues (hostels). It is also proof that you did the walk and you must show it in Santiago in order to receive your official certificate. You get stamps at cafes, restaurants, churches, sometimes stores and the hostels along the way. For many pilgrims this is their most treasured souvenir from the way.

Tip: Keep your passport in a plastic bag or sleeve so that it survives those occasional rain showers!

I filled up my first passport, so I had to get a second one.

Other side of my passports. 

You drink wine. Okay, so there was only one day in which a wine fountain was on the path, but it was a very cool stop. A monastery in Spain runs the winery and there is a spout especially for pilgrims. Check out their live webcam to see thirsty walkers sampling the vino (remember the time difference between where you are and Spain!).

Sampling the vino

The fountain - notice that there are two spouts, left is wine, right is water. Stay hydrated!

You walk. For me, wine during the day is counter-productive to walking, so most of the time after a water, coffee, snack or simple rest break, I would get back to the walking! My shortest day was a mere 12.5 kilometers (once again, after that night in Logroño...) and my biggest push was 28.7, when I set out from Cacabelos and finally stopped in Las Herrerías de Valcarce.

Entering Galicia.

These Columbia boots worked great for me.

You break. What worked best for me were short, frequent breaks. Sometimes I would have a snack, sometimes I would gaze out at the countryside and sometimes more coffee was in order! Below, are two pictures of donativos, these are rest spots set up for pilgrims that simply ask for a donation. There are some really lovely people on the way! 

  

You walk. Keep going! Just follow the shells and you will be okay! Promise.

This might have been the first day! Somewhere past Pamplona?

Repeat the rest and walk pattern. Remember to put your feet up (and even take off shoes and socks) during breaks. Another coffee is always a good idea. And keep drinking water!

You rest your feet. After you reach your spot for the night, there are a lot of daily to-do's! You find your lodging, drop your stuff, shower, do some hand-washing and rest your feet. There is a certain calmness in this routine and just focusing on taking care of the basics for yourself each day. I heard some horrible stories of blisters and lost toenails so feet-care is definitely a priority!

Swinging my feet off of the balcony in Portomarín

Soaking in the ice cold creek at Ribadiso

Enjoying the late evening sun and a glass of liquid sunshine in Palas de Rei.

You eat dinner. After walking all day it's pretty exciting when it is time to eat! Many local restaurants offer a pilgrim's menu, with a few courses, bread and wine for around 10 euros. This is a nice option if you want a lot of food. There are plenty of tapas options (small plates) and establishments to sample the region's wines as well. Many albergues offer kitchen use and I cooked some tasty meals of gluten free pasta and salad while on the road. 

Pulpo (octopus), served Galician style, with olive oil and smoked paprika. 

Gluten free beer and tapas in Pamplona

Hurray, tapas!

Tapas bar in Burgos

Evening entertainment. Maybe... Many pilgrims will flop into bed, read, write, listen to music, use social media and simply crash. If you have enough energy, then you meet up with fellow pilgrims, venture out for a drink, or wander around whatever small town you happen to find yourself in. Many nights I was in bed before sunset (which is quite late in summer in Spain). Oh, and don't forget to text your mom!

Martini in Burgos.

Checking out the next day's route and eating olives in Muruzábal.

Swimming pool at the hostel in Barbadelo

I believe this was Spain vs. Italy... it was quite an intense game!

There's Santiago! His likeness is all over the Camino.

You sleep. Despite the shared accommodation, basic facilities and sore muscles, I slept great on the Camino. I recommend wax earplugs to block out any noises and a sleeping sack.

 ---> So, who is joining me on my next Camino?!?

Wisdom from the Camino: Where are your dreams? Live them before dying. 

Los lugares turísticos en Myanmar

Esta semana ofrezco algo para mis amigos hispanohablantes. El siguiente es un proyecto de mi clase de Español 4. Lo publicamos en Edmodo y compartimos conversación con otros estudiantes alrededor del mundo. ¡Disfruta!

• Los lugares turísticos en Myanmar

Por nuestro tema elegimos cuatro lugares preciosos en Myanmar. Hay mucho que podemos describir pero empezamos con los lugares turísticos que les pueden interesar cuando vengan a este maravilloso país. Esperamos que les interesen lo que hemos escrito y estamos entusiasmados para contestar sus preguntas abajo.

Kyaikhteeyo (La piedra dorada)

-       Profe

Kyaikhteeyo, en myanmar, o la piedra dorada, es un lugar especial. A la vista es exactamente como se imagina, una piedra grande y dorada. Está encima de una montaña unas horas de Yangon. Su aspecto brillante llama la atención, pero su historia es mucho más interesante.

Los budistas cuentan que había un viajero que conoció al Buda y él le dio al hombre dos de sus pelos como reliquia por su homenaje. Después se hizo lo que ahora reconocemos como Kyaikhteeyo, un área sagrada. Los dos pelos hacen que la piedra flota y no se cae de la montaña. ¡Es realmente increíble!

Muchos budistas quieren visitar este lugar especial para rezar o meditar. Los turistas vienen para observar, sacar fotos y experimentar un poco de la cultura myanmara.

Hay dos maneras para subir al cima, en camión o a pie. Cada opción ofrece su propia experiencia y aventura. En al camión estás al aire libre y el carro va rápidamente por las curvas mientras sube. La primera vez que fui subí en el camión y el cielo abrió y cayeron gotas de agua todo el rato que subíamos.

La segunda vez que visité la piedra dorada, caminé para llegar al punto más alto. La excursión tomó seis horas pero las vistas eran impresionantes y había muchos lugares a dónde parar y descansar.

Si visitas Myanmar, recomiendo que no olvides de conocer Kyaikhteeyo.

El lago Inle

• estudiante X

El próximo lugar que recomendamos es Inle. Inle es un lago en el estado de Shan. Lo interesante sobre este lugar es que la gente vive encima del lago en barcos y casas altas. Típicamente, esos barcos y casas son hechos de madera. Es, básicamente, un pueblo en el agua. ¡Todos deben visitarlo! Recomendamos que vayan allí en noviembre o diciembre. No hace mucho calor ni frío durante esos meses. A cambio, hace un poco de fresco (mi clima favorito).  Normalmente, los turistas vuelan desde Yangon a Heho por avión y después van a Inle en coche o autobús.

Ngapali

• estudiante M

En Myanmar, hay tres playas famosas: Chaung Tha, Ngwe Saung y Ngapali. Chaung Tha y Ngwe Saung están en la región Ayeyarwaddy en el sur de Myanmar y Ngapali está en el estado Rakhine al oeste.

La playa que nos gusta más es Ngapali en el estado Rakhine por su arena blanca y agua cristal.

Puedes viajar a Ngapali por avión de Yangon (la ciudad más grande) o Nay Pyi Daw (la capital). El vuelo dura 55 minutos a Thandwe Aeropuerto. El pueblo Ngapali está a 15 minutos en coche de la playa.

La comida de Ngapali, Thandwe es muy deliciosa. Tiene muchos mariscos y pescados por ser una playa. Los hoteles tienen restaurantes buenos también pero la comida cuesta mucho más que en los restaurantes del pueblo de Thandwe.

La marea está alta durante la noche y el mediodía desde la 1 hasta las 3. Podemos nadar en el mar por la la mañana o por la tarde. ¡Pero, podemos tomar el sol todo el día!

Hay muchas actividades que puedes hacer en Ngapali también. Unos hoteles ofrecen equipo para kayak, parasail, bucear, andar en barco o visitar las islas cercanas.

Bagan

• estudiante A

Bagan es una ciudad antigua de Myanmar. Del siglo nueve a siglo trece, Bagan fue la ciudad capital de Myanmar. Hay más de 10,000 templos budistas en la región en el pasado pero ahora, hay solo 2200 templos y pagodas en la zona. Rey Pyinbya encontró la ciudad en el siglo siete. Después, en el siglo nueve, los birmanos entraron en la ciudad y en el siglo diez, Bagan se convirtió en la ciudad capital de los birmanos. Bagan era la ciudad que tenía muchas oportunidades educativas  y la religión del budismo era muy fuerte. El reino de Bagan se cayó en el siglo 12 cuando los mongoles lo atacaron.

Hoy Bagan es un lugar popular entre los extranjeros que están visitando Myanmar. La gente viene para las vistas de las puestas del sol, para explorar las ruinas de la ciudad y para aprender sobre la historia de Bagan. Ahora, Bagan tiene muchas hoteles y restaurantes para las visitantes, especialmente para los extranjeros. No vas a arrepentir tu experiencia en Bagan. Es definitivamente un viaje especial.