Day 5: Trinidad de Arre - Uterga

Although the albergue last night was so cute, it took hours for me to settle in and get to sleep. With the early risers in our common room, I definitely did not get my 8 hours last night, which made today tough. 

I enjoyed seeing the almost full moon as I made my way out of town. I lost the arrows and shells (the Camino markers) and so lost some time backtracking and finding them again. 

The scallop shell is one of the symbols of the Camino and you can see many decorations along the way. 

Despite that "detour" I was surprised when I arrived to Pamplona, it wasn't far away! I met my walking friend from the day before for a coffee and then it was time to say goodbye (he was heading home after just doing a little of the Camino). Pamplona was just opening up, but I walked past, continuing on my way. 

It was a strange feeling walking out of Pamplona because now I am on a section of the Camino that I have walked before. I remembered where to go at the university on the way out of town to get a stamp and I remembered the climb up to the windmills and the towns after. It's an interesting experience knowing what is coming; it has its advantages and disadvantages. 

Rocky, dusty and hot as the morning wore on after Pamplona. I was on my way to those windmills! 

Making my way up...

Church in Zariquiegui

Typical snack shop; vending machines are common on the way too! 

There are even pop up food trucks!

Made it!

View and trail down the other side. 

Kilometers walked:  25.17 (Fitbit), 21.34 (Buen Camino app).

Day 4: Linzoáin - Trinidad de Arre

Today was the first day that my alarm woke me. Today was also the first day that I left in the daylight. In a shared room with just three beds (and people) I slept much better. After good rest, un café con leche de soja and great hospitality at Posada El Camino, I was ready to take on my third day. 

I ended up walking with another guest from the hostal and chatting made time pass quickly. We had breakfast and second coffees in Zubiri and continued. 

The weather was perfect and it felt satisfying to see a less busy camino before me. So far, walkers seem to be moving in very similar stages, which is a less tranquil experience walking and necessitates planning and reservations, something I prefer to avoid so that I can stay open to how my body feels and how the day unfolds. 

This is how you feel sometimes on the Camino. 

The trail threaded through some picturesque villages and followed the Arga River most of the day. 

My new friend and I ended up going farther... somehow we didn't find a village, but it all worked out. We are in the albergue connected to the church and they say it is the oldest on the Camino, dating back to the 12th century. There is a lovely grassy courtyard and it is peaceful. Pamplona is not far, so I will see busy city-ish stuff tomorrow. 

Kicking back for now. :)

There is a kitchen here so I visited the supermarket and and put together a simple salad dinner. 

There are guests from Cataluña, Navarra, France, Japan, South Korea and the Ukraine. At least, those are the ones I have chatted with so far!

Kilometers walked: 30.33 (Fitbit), 23.71 (Buen Camino app). Interesting variation, no?

Day 3: Roncesvalles - Linzoáin (Lintzoain)

First things first, why are there two town names above? I'm in the Basque Country and the second is the Basque name for where I am. Spain has a lot of geographical, cultural and linguistic variety - come and see! 

I wanted to sleep in until 7:15 or so today, but in the big albergues it can be difficult. Lots of people in one big room means a lot of noise... phones, snores and really early risers. When the lights switched on at 6, I figured that I might as well get up. 

(Before dawn selfie; only 790 k to go...)

I was out of town before 7, opting to walk a little before breakfast. It was still dark on the trail, but I met a sweet Swedish girl with a headlamp so we chatted until the next town (and breakfast stop). My body didn't feel so sore, but I just felt tired despite the food and caffeine. 

It was a drizzly morning, which is not bad for walking, but my clothes hadn't dried from the day before so I started looking at lodging options at my second coffee shop. I opted for an easy day and to avoid the stop that most were headed towards, in an attempt to escape the crowd. I think everyone has read that September has better weather and is less-crowded... so far it seems busy to me. However, it will probably even out as we strike our own paces a bit more. 

I found a lovely old house, which has been reformed into Camino lodging via my Buen Camino app. It's a new option on the Camino and the owner is very kind; the bonus is she has an adorable puppy, Nala. 

With my clothes on the line, a picnic lunch at the table inside my tummy and good wifi, I updated my blog and rested. 

The hostel is THE option for food and drink so I enjoyed a lovely meal of home-cooked, locally grown, fresh food for dinner. 

Kilometers walked: 19.13, definitely not a record for the Camino, but a good easy day. Not all of this was "on the Camino" as I explored around the village, stretching my legs after settling in. 

Day 2: St. Jean - Roncesvalles

Today will also be known as the hazing day of the Camino. Oh my, saying it was hard doesn't even begin to describe it. I left my hostel at 7:11am and didn't get here until 5:30... more than 10 hours on the trail does not mean that I was walking the whole time, but it does mean I was on the road for a very long stretch of time. The ascent was tough, the descent was steep. I had some great rest stops, conversations with fellow pilgrims, snacks and took some amazing pictures. 

I finally made to Roncesvalles and it was good I had made a reservation because all 180 beds were taken. Getting to the hostel late means less time to rest and that my hair and clothes are still wet. Most pilgrims finish their walking at 2-3 to take advantage of Spanish lunchtime and relaxing in the evening. Hmmm, that sounds nice!

It was a great day. It was just long and a brutal start in. If you do the Camino Francés I absolutely recommend that you break up this first stage. Your body is not used to the trail or your pack yet and it becomes a trial. 

I met quite a few Americans today and kept running into three men from Texas. As we chatted and also met other pilgrims people were so kind, asking them if all was okay with their homes and families. ❤️

This evening was busy. Self care (clothes washing, showering, Food!) took priority, but I did make it to the 8pm pilgrims' mass . It was a really special ceremony and all the pilgrims were called forward at the end to receive a blessing. 

My plan is for tomorrow to be a much shorter day. It will be good for my body to move and stretch but pushing it too much at the start is not a good idea. 

Kilometers walked: 25.83... though I'm starting to wonder how accurate my darling Fitbit is since that is shy of what the route marks... and I tend to trust the 1000 year old trail more than new technology. 😂 However, it is noteworthy that none of my walking registered today... instead the Fitbit picked up my activity as sport. Intense. 

Day 1: Madrid - St. Jean Pied de Port

Today marked an early start, especially by Spain standards, with a 5:30 am alarm. I got up, got ready and was out the door by 6. It was a day of travel on foot, by train, by plane and by car! And everything went smoothly! 

Soy milk café con leche, gluten free vegan bocadillo that I made the night before and a few other travel essentials. ;)

The French Basque Country is gorgeous and I had plenty of time to wander around town, check out the Monday market and get my pilgrim passport. St. Jean has a great energy to it and there is a buzz of nervous excitement as pilgrims prepare to embark on the Camino. I've already met new friends from Ireland, Poland, New Zealand, Australia, England and the USA. 

Picture above: 

Registering at the pilgrim office. The pilgrim passport cost €2 and is your "proof" as you move along the Camino. It also ends up being one of your best souvenirs. 

This photo shows the view from my accommodation, Gite Makila. 

I lit a candle inside the church today. 

I bought some snacks for tomorrow, anti-bedbug spray and walking poles. I wanted to try the poles this time - the downhill hurts my knees sometimes. 

The sun sets late; it's 8:30 pm as I finish this post and though the sun has slipped behind the Pyrenees (where I will follow, tomorrow!), it is still light out and the most pleasant temperature. 

Kilometers walked: 12.26 (not a Camino day, but not bad for just roaming around town).

Cambodia: Phnom Penh

My time in Phnom Pehn was short and it was cut even shorter by a transport snafu leaving Kampot (a broken van, a new van filled with boxes of seafood as well as people and finally a van stuffed full of people that did eventually get us to the capital). Unfortunately, I had to cancel my Girl Moto Tour, which is on the top of my list for my next trip. My hotel was adorable and excellent value and I rested up for my one big full day of sightseeing there.

In this first, short trip to Cambodia, I only gave myself one full day in Phnom Penh. This is an ambitious amount of time to explore any major city and Phnom Penh is no exception. I woke up early, enjoyed the tea at my hotel’s breakfast and negotiated a tuk-tuk driver to take me to the three sites I had selected: The Royal Palace, The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Choeng Ek Genocidal Center. As the soft morning breeze moved over my skin on the ride to my first stop, I smiled at the city world around me. The Royal Palace was breathtaking and appropriately regal, as any palace should be. There are abundant gardens, stupas, statues, rooms and tourists taking pictures. 

Roof detail

The main draw for visitors is the Silver Pagoda within the compound, which houses many precious relics, including an Emerald Buddha. Giant sterling silver blocks make up the floor of this small pagoda. As I wiggled my toes on one of the cool silver tiles and gazed up at the luminescent green Buddha, I could feel the peace and reverence of the place. I wandered through the rest of the grounds and gathered courage for my next two stops, which would have a very different feel.

Royal Palace complex

Tuol Svay Prey High School was converted into a prison known as S-21 under the command of Pol Pot during the Khmer Rouge’s brutal regime lasting from 1975 to 1978. In this short time approximately one quarter of Cambodia’s population was murdered. More than 17,000 men, women and children were held and tortured at this one site (one of 200) before being taken to extermination camps. I have never visited the Nazi concentration camps, but the Khmer Rouge’s bloody years in power parallel much of what happened in Nazi Germany. As I walked through the prison cells, viewing the photos of victims and actual torture devices and listening to the stories, I got constant chills. Many visitors stepped out to “take a break” from the audio tour guide, tears rolling down their cheeks. The stairwells radiated a visceral sensation of pure evil.

S-21 Prison

Courtyard at S-21

Map of S-21

Monument of remembrance to S-21's victims

The last stop was the the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, more commonly known as the Killing Fields. It is essentially a mass grave about 15 kilometers outside of town. It is estimated that about 20,000 men, women, children and babies were killed here during the Khmer Rouge Regime. Like the previous stop, it is an extremely well-organized and both sides are educational opportunities with audio guides and stops explaining what happened. 

Map of the Killing Fields

Seeing the mounds of earth with bones sticking out and the Killing Tree is a heavy experience, but what calls the most attention is the glass pagoda filled with skulls and bones that have surfaced, and where visitors now pay respects to the victims with flowers, incense and prayers.

Memorial Pagoda for the victims

It was a heavy day, but after reading about this time period in Loung Ung’s memoir and traveling the country for almost two weeks, it is an imperative time in history to learn about. I recommend that you include these stops in your tour of Cambodia. 

Instead of checking out Phnom Penh's pub street and night life, I opted for a quiet evening in my hotel, working on my yoga homework.

Where I stayed: The Teahouse Hotel is absolutely adorable and it would be an awesome spot to hang out if you wanted to take a rest day.

My darling room

Of course tea is their theme!

Restaurant leading out to the pool

What I ate: There are also many great options in this city, but I wasn't here long enough to sample all of them! One favorite was Dosa Corner, extremely affordable and delicious South Indian food.

Dosa and condiments

Cambodia, this is your last post (from 2017), but you blew me away and I can't wait to come back!