Cambodia: Phnom Penh

My time in Phnom Pehn was short and it was cut even shorter by a transport snafu leaving Kampot (a broken van, a new van filled with boxes of seafood as well as people and finally a van stuffed full of people that did eventually get us to the capital). Unfortunately, I had to cancel my Girl Moto Tour, which is on the top of my list for my next trip. My hotel was adorable and excellent value and I rested up for my one big full day of sightseeing there.

In this first, short trip to Cambodia, I only gave myself one full day in Phnom Penh. This is an ambitious amount of time to explore any major city and Phnom Penh is no exception. I woke up early, enjoyed the tea at my hotel’s breakfast and negotiated a tuk-tuk driver to take me to the three sites I had selected: The Royal Palace, The Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Choeng Ek Genocidal Center. As the soft morning breeze moved over my skin on the ride to my first stop, I smiled at the city world around me. The Royal Palace was breathtaking and appropriately regal, as any palace should be. There are abundant gardens, stupas, statues, rooms and tourists taking pictures. 

Roof detail

The main draw for visitors is the Silver Pagoda within the compound, which houses many precious relics, including an Emerald Buddha. Giant sterling silver blocks make up the floor of this small pagoda. As I wiggled my toes on one of the cool silver tiles and gazed up at the luminescent green Buddha, I could feel the peace and reverence of the place. I wandered through the rest of the grounds and gathered courage for my next two stops, which would have a very different feel.

Royal Palace complex

Tuol Svay Prey High School was converted into a prison known as S-21 under the command of Pol Pot during the Khmer Rouge’s brutal regime lasting from 1975 to 1978. In this short time approximately one quarter of Cambodia’s population was murdered. More than 17,000 men, women and children were held and tortured at this one site (one of 200) before being taken to extermination camps. I have never visited the Nazi concentration camps, but the Khmer Rouge’s bloody years in power parallel much of what happened in Nazi Germany. As I walked through the prison cells, viewing the photos of victims and actual torture devices and listening to the stories, I got constant chills. Many visitors stepped out to “take a break” from the audio tour guide, tears rolling down their cheeks. The stairwells radiated a visceral sensation of pure evil.

S-21 Prison

Courtyard at S-21

Map of S-21

Monument of remembrance to S-21's victims

The last stop was the the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum, more commonly known as the Killing Fields. It is essentially a mass grave about 15 kilometers outside of town. It is estimated that about 20,000 men, women, children and babies were killed here during the Khmer Rouge Regime. Like the previous stop, it is an extremely well-organized and both sides are educational opportunities with audio guides and stops explaining what happened. 

Map of the Killing Fields

Seeing the mounds of earth with bones sticking out and the Killing Tree is a heavy experience, but what calls the most attention is the glass pagoda filled with skulls and bones that have surfaced, and where visitors now pay respects to the victims with flowers, incense and prayers.

Memorial Pagoda for the victims

It was a heavy day, but after reading about this time period in Loung Ung’s memoir and traveling the country for almost two weeks, it is an imperative time in history to learn about. I recommend that you include these stops in your tour of Cambodia. 

Instead of checking out Phnom Penh's pub street and night life, I opted for a quiet evening in my hotel, working on my yoga homework.

Where I stayed: The Teahouse Hotel is absolutely adorable and it would be an awesome spot to hang out if you wanted to take a rest day.

My darling room

Of course tea is their theme!

Restaurant leading out to the pool

What I ate: There are also many great options in this city, but I wasn't here long enough to sample all of them! One favorite was Dosa Corner, extremely affordable and delicious South Indian food.

Dosa and condiments

Cambodia, this is your last post (from 2017), but you blew me away and I can't wait to come back!