Day 30: Grandas de Salime - A Fonsagrada

After an on-again, off-again night's sleep, I decided it was time to get up just after 6. I made a green tea at the albergue, ate a nectarine and went through the now very familiar routine of packing my backpack. Once again I left in the misty night, but the "rain" wasn't even falling hard enough to warrant a jacket or backpack cover. After the lights of town ended I used my phone flashlight to track the shells. Sunrise has changed by almost an hour since I started walking. A headlamp would be a good thing to bring next time... (In June and July it's not necessary as the days are so long.) When it did get light I could see the tunnel-y, forest-y path. 

I love the stone houses here. 

I'm always impressed by how quickly the landscape can change - we are only moving on foot after all. 

And there are those highway crossings... often with no cars in sight. It can feel quite eerie. 

The big accomplishment of today was crossing from Asturias into Galicia. The path followed a long and steep climb, but my legs carried me up, over the top, I said adiós to Asturias and ¡HOLA! to Galicia. Santiago is in Galicia; this feels like progress! 

As I walked down the mountain I considered all that I still wanted to do on this Camino. Now is when. 

The pilgrim news is that the shell markers flip directions in Galicia. The top of the shell points the way (before it was usually the bottom). Can you see what I mean?

There were more amazing views but there hadn't been more than a water fountain all day. Good thing I am good at squirreling away snacks. 

I think every single pilgrim stopped at this bar/restaurant about 6k from A Fonsagrada for some kind of nourishment. Here's mine. Salad (€6), water (no charge).

It was a sunny afternoon as I set back off and I talked to my mom while the connection held. Then it was time for the final intense climb into town. I arrived hot, sweaty and happy to join many of my tribe members at the albergue. Showers, laundry and resting is usually the order of business and today was the same. B and I splurged on washer and dryer cycles so the treat of today was no hand washing!

A quick trip to the supermarket is providing my dinner (garbanzos with spinach), fruit for tomorrow and some gluten free breadsticks. The tentative plan for tonight is to attend the pilgrim's mass at 8. Folks are rallying to go out for traditional Galician fare after, but I'm not sure that will be in this pilgrim's plan tonight. 

Kilometers walked: 25.16 (Fitbit), 25.33 (Buen Camino app), 25.2 (gronze.com). Pretty nice agreement today. :)

Day 29: Berducedo - Grandas de Salime

I slept great in my little room and headed out just before dawn with B, from Oregon. The misty rain felt refreshing and the black sky turned dark blue and then lighter still. We carefully followed the shells. 

We settled into our own paces and I walked ahead. We met again at a home in La Mesa, the family opened it up to pilgrims for breakfast and coffee in exchange for a donation. This kind of generosity is common on the Camino. The second cup of strong coffee helped propel me up a hill and soon there was a diversion. My app recommended I take it, so I did. I felt like I was looking down at a sea of clouds. 

Somehow I caught up with M (or she caught up with me?) and we walked together for a bit. She took this shot of me!

There are very hard parts of walking each day. The downhill today was long and brutal. The beauty of the Primitivo is you get distracted by how amazing your surroundings are! I feel so fortunate to be here. 

From the top I could see a dam below and the path slowly snaked its way down. 

I walked over it!

And the Camino took us back up... The sun contributed its part - gorgeous light sparkling through the leaves to the shade or an extra hot challenge boiling down... depending on which section of the path you were on. ;)

The beauty of fall is here on the Primitivo. 

I guess I should get to the big decision of today. Last night the family/tribe/group of us that had been coinciding called ahead to reserve in Castro. I arrived here just about 3, hot, tired and ready to rest (and still 5-8 k from Castro depending which map you look at). I decided to stay. It was a tough call because I will miss my friends, but one of the most important lessons (to me) of the Camino is that we all must walk our own way. I decided to stay in this lovely town and I made new friends from France and Italy. We are all cooking and sharing dinner (well, M, the Italian is taking charge, but how perfect that there will be gluten-free vegan pasta?). I helped prep some veggies. 

I also met another gluten-free blogger from France. Check out her voyage on the Camino del Norte and then Primitivo here: https://www.myatlas.com/colinejardin/go-to-camino-del-norte

It's a nice, clean and modern albergue and I know I made the right call to have a shorter day today. I hope I'll see old friends and stay in touch with new ones tomorrow. 

Kilometers walked: 25.54 (Fitbit), 20.08 (Buen Camino app). This time Fitbit wins! I read that the diversion I took added 4 k.