The Mysterious Mrauk U

Mrauk U. This spot has been on my Myanmar Bucket List for quite some time. Say it kinda like "M-i-ah-oo." Mrauk U is a town and living archeological, historical and religious site in Rakhine State (northwestern Myanmar). Part of its allure is that it is not an easy spot to get to, so the trip requires more than a long weekend. Spring Break, or Thingyan (Burmese New Year), finally provided some time to make the journey.

My colleague, friend and travel buddy, B, and I began the trip on a Thursday morning. It was the first day of Thingyan, the Myanmar New Year celebration, which involves the whole country slowing waaaay down, stages constructed in every neighborhood, water fights, music and general partying all over. There is a spiritual aspect to the celebration as well, but it seems to be getting lost as the country develops. I was excited to experience the holiday myself as the last two years I have traveled during the entire break (Taiwan and Vietnam). I managed to secure a taxi driver who was working and he picked us up and safely drove us to the airport. Things didn't look too crazy yet; in fact, there was no traffic which is a rarity for Yangon!

It was a travel day; we had coffee, I ate vegetarian fried rice and we hung out at the airport. We were the only foreigners on our small plane to Sittwe and the just-over-an-hour flight flew by. Sittwe's airport is tiny and after checking in with immigration (this happens even for domestic travel in Myanmar for foreigners), we found a taxi driver who took us to the Shwe Thazin Hotel. We enjoyed watching the water festival revellers from the safety of the car, checked in to our room and relaxed at the hotel. The hotel restaurant serves great food and its roof deck offers excellent views. We worked to confirm our travel plans for the next day.

Sunset over a pagoda in Sittwe

We wanted to leave early for Mrauk U since Sittwe was basically a pit-stop, but our boat driver was out partying, so we were told we couldn't leave until 10am on Friday (hey, at least they were honest). B took advantage of the late start to go for a run and I slept in and did some reading. Another taxi ride later (and I did get splashed by a young boy on my way from the hotel to the cab parked just outside) and we were aboard and headed up river!

B enjoys the ride

It's about a 5 hour journey upstream from Sittwe to Mrauk U. Our boat was basic, but we napped, read and took pictures as we motored along. It was hot, despite the soft breeze and I would definitely recommend leaving earlier in the morning, especially if you make this trip in summer (like we did).

Approaching Mrauk U

View from the pier

We arrived late afternoon to a very quiet pier in the town of Mrauk U. Our boat driver called someone and we ended up on a tuk-tuk ride to our second Shwe Thazin Hotel. We didn't expect to stay dry and we didn't. As we drove through town, we were splashed with water by the celebrating locals. We felt like quite the spectacle. Technology was secure in waterproof cases and everything else dries, so it was all good.

Below is a video of one of the Thingyan floats. This one is playing traditional music, but it's not uncommon to hear heavy metal, pop or hip hop blasting as young people ride by crowded onto trucks.

The Shwe Thazin

After checking in, having snacks and renting bicycles at a shop nearby (1,000MMK for the evening, less than one dollar), we were off to explore some of the temples in the northern group. Here are a few of my favorite shots from the first evening.

First sunset in Mrauk U

Hallway to enter

And a peek inside

Our first full day in Mrauk U was Saturday and we had arranged for a car and driver for the day. Mrauk U is spread over miles of jungle and rural areas, so I'd recommend you do this, too. We scheduled a 5:30am pick-up and requested a sunrise view. Our driver parked below a small monastery on a hill and as we climbed past, I saw monks waking up and beginning their daily routine. There was a golden pagoda and we enjoyed the surrounding views as the light of day came over the area.

Magical? Yes.

Watching the morning come in

After breakfast back at the hotel, we set off again. Our morning consisted of exploring temples, wandering through monasteries and taking in the local life that is going on all around the historical sites. We started at Koe Thaung, probably one of the most photographed temples in Mrauk U.

Entering Koe Thaung

Koe Thaung in the distance

Our driver didn't speak much English, but he was cheerful and told us the names of each spot that we visited. We stayed mostly dry, as the water fights don't tend to be near the religious structures. 

I'm here!

The sound system at one monastery. Many monasteries broadcast services and chants.

We also got to observe more celebrations. It was a lot of fun to see everyone out and about, relaxed, smiling and celebrating. It's a challenge to capture, but I got a few pictures.

Most of the time Thingyan festivities looked like this...

Kids throwing water at our passing car.

We took an early lunch and a long afternoon nap to skip out on some of the heat. I think our young driver was happy to have a chunk of time off, too. He returned late afternoon to continue showing us around and we again asked for a place with a view for the sunset. It was a pretty amazing day!

B capturing the moment

Peek-a-boo

Temple dog

View looking back at the old castle's walls

The next day we were on our own so we rented bikes and set out to explore some more! There is something so adventurous and magical about going around and discovering these special spots. 

A steep climb to a small pagoda

Nature is working to re-claim this one

Action shot captured by B!

Celebrating Thingyan (water festival)

Sunset - photo credit to B

We had booked our boat back for Monday, but due to Cyclone Maruutha and storm warnings our travel agent cancelled the boat ride and set up a car instead. It took about three hours to drive from Mrauk U back to Sittwe. It was the last day of the new year celebrations and we enjoyed watching the festivities as we passed through many small towns on the way back to the airport.

The rest of my break was spent resting and relaxing in Yangon. I'm glad that I finally got to Mrauk U and that I was lucky enough to experience Myanmar New Year; both are truly memorable experiences.

What I'm Listening to:
I first "met" Tycho at Laneway. You can stream their album, Dive, but I recommend you buy it, too.

Just Finished Eating:
I've been a fan of Forks Over Knives for a long time. Today I tried their Crispy Baked Falafels. I don't have arrowroot powder, so I subbed tapioca starch. I also threw in some turmeric, smoky Spanish paprika and a little apple cider vinegar. The "dough" is pretty dry and it was hard to form the balls, so adding a little liquid helped.

This West African Peanut Soup is creamy, without cream! Give the combo of greens, peanut butter and tomato a chance. I used bok choy (instead of collard greens) and a red curry paste (instead of the sriracha) and it turned out great! I recommend serving it over brown rice.

Just Finished Reading:
This one is actually a re-read. I don't read a lot of books more than once, but Melissa Bank is a special exception. I strongly recommend The Girls' Guide to Hunting and Fishing. This collection of inter-connected stories will have you smiling, cringing and finally cheering. You can read the beginning of the book's first story here.

The Best of Chiang Mai

I've wanted to get back to Chiang Mai ever since I visited with students for a school trip. A friend who moved there a couple of years ago and an awesome professional development workshop (Proficiency Models in the Foreign Language Classroom!) finally gave me the reason to return.

I flew out on Myanmar Air on a Friday evening.

You walk out on the runway to catch this plane!

My window seat.

Pretty dusky views... BUT that colorful haze is pollution. Yangon is one of the worst cities in SE Asia. :(

My friend, J (yes, of Laneway fame), picked me up at the airport and off we zoomed on her scooter. We enjoyed gluten free, vegan pasta and duty-free Spanish wine with her boyfriend, cat and three dogs and we set our plan for the weekend...

The Best Coffee: Ristr8tto - great selection of beans and beverages, artfully crafted. Coffee should be treated like art, in my opinion.

...with soy milk and water to stay hydrated. 

The Best Wrap: Food for Thought - Being gluten-free, I don't eat a lot of wraps, but Food for Thought makes their own and they are amazing!

Avocado wrap and sweet potato fries

Best Place to Wander: Downtown - While Chiang Mai may not be as pedestrian-friendly as parts of Europe, it is a much more walkable city than Yangon. Parts of downtown are closed from traffic, there are great night markets, plenty of massage parlors and loads of shops.

A temple near downtown

There are pedestrian paths along these canals for miles.

Best Saturday Night: Wine and art! We cleaned up our mess, promise Mom.

My kitten painting amidst the craftermath...

Best Boutique Hotel: Kate and Hasu - Located just outside of old town, this hotel is a find. It's modern, clean and great value. Staff are friendly and helpful and breakfast is included. There is also a roof deck with loungers and a pool! I stayed with J the first two nights, but needed to be nearer my conference on Monday and Tuesday so this was my home. 

My little room - probably the best bed I have slept on in Asia.

Pre-conference coffee poolside

Iced coffee, coconut milk yogurt and thai sticky rice dessert (made blue by natural dyes from the peaflower)

Best Place for a Conference: The Shangri-La! This is probably the best swanky hotel as well, but it has the price tag to match.

We attended the conference in style

Best Street Statue: These rats!

Best Yoga Studio: Namo is a little studio near old town. Classes are held on the second floor studio, there are plenty of props and knowledgeable teachers. 

Best All-Around Vegan Restaurant: While many places in Chiang Mai offer vegan options, Vegan Heaven boasts a 100% vegan menu with many tasty Thai, Asian and even a few Western options. I ate here twice, but didn't snap a picture.

Best Chocolate Cake: Amrita Garden has a lovely outdoor seating area, many delicious vegan and gf food options, including this decadent chocolate cake.

Best Comfort Foods: Butter is Better has many classic diner options. They cater to those with food challenges as well, but it is tricky if you are gluten-free and vegan, as many of their gluten-free options contain eggs and many of their vegan options rely on wheat.

Best Baked Goods AND Veggie Thai: Blue Diamond is another little oasis in Chiang Mai. It has a beautiful patio, gf and vegan muffins, cookies and cakes and amazing Thai food.

Best friend in Chiang Mai goes to this one. :)

Just Finished Reading:

A History of God by Karen Armstrong - This book delivers what the title promises. A fascinating and educational read.

Just Finished Making:

Vegan and gluten-free Mac-n-cheese! Whether you have food challenges or not, this is a healthy take on my childhood favorite.

LA Favorites

Skipping back in time a little and back to the states... I am not going to even try to write a comprehensive post about Los Angeles, California! What I will include here are a few favorite spots, especially those catering to the gluten free & vegan. I have been visiting LA for over ten years... I guess as long as my bestie has been living there. :) She is a great tour guide and takes good care of me.

Season Thai in downtown Burbank was our first dinner and it is an amazing option for Thai (and I think my opinion can hold a little weight - I live in SE Asia!). They can easily adjust menu options for vegan and/or gluten free.

If you are craving sushi, then I recommend Sushi Fuji. They have a great happy hour too!

My Christmas present from L - one of my favorite authors + coloring in one!

Pitfire Pizza has several locations throughout LA and has to-die-for gluten free crust and loads of scrumptious toppings. Sorry, no picture! We ate it up too fast. ;)

L models behind Lephet Thoke - a traditional Burmese salad made of fermented tea leaves.

Only the best for our New Year's Eve celebration!

The 2016-2017 transition happened here for us.

We take new year's resolutions very seriously. 

A must-try snack at The Federal is the sweet potato tater tots. Again that's sweet potato meets tater tot! Incredible! They are lightly drizzeled with maple syrup = pure perfection.

The famous tots

Another "always" stop on my LA tour is the Upright Citizens Brigade Theatre. I remember watching UCB when it aired on Comedy Central in my early college days... Always a fun night of laughing.

One of my favorite days was waking up early-ish, heading to a yoga flow class at Electric Soul and then crossing the street to Lemonade, for a huge variety of fresh, healthy lunch options. Not everything here is gluten free and vegan, but MANY options are and the cheerful staff will gladly direct you to the right dishes for your palate or diet. Don't forget to try one of their signature lemonade blends too!

Yoga Happy at Lemonade

I used to come to LA to warm up and escape the Seattle gray, but now my body is accustomed to living in a tropical climate... so what used to feel warm is now cold! Hot or cold weather aside, any time is a good time for ice cream! Salt and Straw offers a few vegan options (and most ice cream is gluten free already). 

Temperatures below 80? Brrrrr!!!

Just hanging out, catching up and playing with the kitties is also a major activity when I visit LA.

Sawyer fell in love with my suitcase.

Desmond contemplates.

We visited Hugo's Restaurant, a healthy take on all the feel-good diner favorites and I tasted rye bread for the first time since giving up gluten.

The LA family at Hugo's!

My "last meal" (for this trip!!!) was at our all-time favorite Sweet Chili (more Thai!) in West Hollywood. I hope to be back to visit these friendly faces, stop in to my favorite spots and find new ones soon!

Just finished eating:
Rice is such a lovely gluten free alternative. I had a few precious pine nuts from a package from Mom, some saffron from Granada and the other ingredients (or simple subs) for this Saffron Rice recipe.

I love that many southern Indian recipes are naturally vegan and gluten free. Gujarati Pudlas are just one example. And the best thing is that they are really simple to make! Chickpea flour is easy to find here and you can use whatever vegetables you like.

Just finished reading:
Kabul Beauty School by Deborah Rodriguez - Debbie tells her story of volunteering and then working to set up a beauty school in Afghanistan. Fascinating and inspiring true story which gives insight into a complex culture and complicated current situation.

The Bhagavad Gita (Gavin Flood translation) - I've picked up my yoga studies and my first course focuses on philosophy. Re-reading this classic has been my start. This translation is especially friendly and I can't wait to dig into the other books for the course and discuss with my teacher and classmates.

And I can't stop listening to:
Spoon - Hot Thoughts - I'm a long-time fan and the new album this month was like a birthday present. I think it's impossible for these guys to make a bad album. I like this one especially as I start my morning.

Conor Oberst - Salutations is another March release and Conor never disappoints. I can't wait to see him on tour this year. The interesting question is where will this be? ;) Stay tuned...