The Mysterious Mrauk U

Mrauk U. This spot has been on my Myanmar Bucket List for quite some time. Say it kinda like "M-i-ah-oo." Mrauk U is a town and living archeological, historical and religious site in Rakhine State (northwestern Myanmar). Part of its allure is that it is not an easy spot to get to, so the trip requires more than a long weekend. Spring Break, or Thingyan (Burmese New Year), finally provided some time to make the journey.

My colleague, friend and travel buddy, B, and I began the trip on a Thursday morning. It was the first day of Thingyan, the Myanmar New Year celebration, which involves the whole country slowing waaaay down, stages constructed in every neighborhood, water fights, music and general partying all over. There is a spiritual aspect to the celebration as well, but it seems to be getting lost as the country develops. I was excited to experience the holiday myself as the last two years I have traveled during the entire break (Taiwan and Vietnam). I managed to secure a taxi driver who was working and he picked us up and safely drove us to the airport. Things didn't look too crazy yet; in fact, there was no traffic which is a rarity for Yangon!

It was a travel day; we had coffee, I ate vegetarian fried rice and we hung out at the airport. We were the only foreigners on our small plane to Sittwe and the just-over-an-hour flight flew by. Sittwe's airport is tiny and after checking in with immigration (this happens even for domestic travel in Myanmar for foreigners), we found a taxi driver who took us to the Shwe Thazin Hotel. We enjoyed watching the water festival revellers from the safety of the car, checked in to our room and relaxed at the hotel. The hotel restaurant serves great food and its roof deck offers excellent views. We worked to confirm our travel plans for the next day.

Sunset over a pagoda in Sittwe

We wanted to leave early for Mrauk U since Sittwe was basically a pit-stop, but our boat driver was out partying, so we were told we couldn't leave until 10am on Friday (hey, at least they were honest). B took advantage of the late start to go for a run and I slept in and did some reading. Another taxi ride later (and I did get splashed by a young boy on my way from the hotel to the cab parked just outside) and we were aboard and headed up river!

B enjoys the ride

It's about a 5 hour journey upstream from Sittwe to Mrauk U. Our boat was basic, but we napped, read and took pictures as we motored along. It was hot, despite the soft breeze and I would definitely recommend leaving earlier in the morning, especially if you make this trip in summer (like we did).

Approaching Mrauk U

View from the pier

We arrived late afternoon to a very quiet pier in the town of Mrauk U. Our boat driver called someone and we ended up on a tuk-tuk ride to our second Shwe Thazin Hotel. We didn't expect to stay dry and we didn't. As we drove through town, we were splashed with water by the celebrating locals. We felt like quite the spectacle. Technology was secure in waterproof cases and everything else dries, so it was all good.

Below is a video of one of the Thingyan floats. This one is playing traditional music, but it's not uncommon to hear heavy metal, pop or hip hop blasting as young people ride by crowded onto trucks.

The Shwe Thazin

After checking in, having snacks and renting bicycles at a shop nearby (1,000MMK for the evening, less than one dollar), we were off to explore some of the temples in the northern group. Here are a few of my favorite shots from the first evening.

First sunset in Mrauk U

Hallway to enter

And a peek inside

Our first full day in Mrauk U was Saturday and we had arranged for a car and driver for the day. Mrauk U is spread over miles of jungle and rural areas, so I'd recommend you do this, too. We scheduled a 5:30am pick-up and requested a sunrise view. Our driver parked below a small monastery on a hill and as we climbed past, I saw monks waking up and beginning their daily routine. There was a golden pagoda and we enjoyed the surrounding views as the light of day came over the area.

Magical? Yes.

Watching the morning come in

After breakfast back at the hotel, we set off again. Our morning consisted of exploring temples, wandering through monasteries and taking in the local life that is going on all around the historical sites. We started at Koe Thaung, probably one of the most photographed temples in Mrauk U.

Entering Koe Thaung

Koe Thaung in the distance

Our driver didn't speak much English, but he was cheerful and told us the names of each spot that we visited. We stayed mostly dry, as the water fights don't tend to be near the religious structures. 

I'm here!

The sound system at one monastery. Many monasteries broadcast services and chants.

We also got to observe more celebrations. It was a lot of fun to see everyone out and about, relaxed, smiling and celebrating. It's a challenge to capture, but I got a few pictures.

Most of the time Thingyan festivities looked like this...

Kids throwing water at our passing car.

We took an early lunch and a long afternoon nap to skip out on some of the heat. I think our young driver was happy to have a chunk of time off, too. He returned late afternoon to continue showing us around and we again asked for a place with a view for the sunset. It was a pretty amazing day!

B capturing the moment

Peek-a-boo

Temple dog

View looking back at the old castle's walls

The next day we were on our own so we rented bikes and set out to explore some more! There is something so adventurous and magical about going around and discovering these special spots. 

A steep climb to a small pagoda

Nature is working to re-claim this one

Action shot captured by B!

Celebrating Thingyan (water festival)

Sunset - photo credit to B

We had booked our boat back for Monday, but due to Cyclone Maruutha and storm warnings our travel agent cancelled the boat ride and set up a car instead. It took about three hours to drive from Mrauk U back to Sittwe. It was the last day of the new year celebrations and we enjoyed watching the festivities as we passed through many small towns on the way back to the airport.

The rest of my break was spent resting and relaxing in Yangon. I'm glad that I finally got to Mrauk U and that I was lucky enough to experience Myanmar New Year; both are truly memorable experiences.

What I'm Listening to:
I first "met" Tycho at Laneway. You can stream their album, Dive, but I recommend you buy it, too.

Just Finished Eating:
I've been a fan of Forks Over Knives for a long time. Today I tried their Crispy Baked Falafels. I don't have arrowroot powder, so I subbed tapioca starch. I also threw in some turmeric, smoky Spanish paprika and a little apple cider vinegar. The "dough" is pretty dry and it was hard to form the balls, so adding a little liquid helped.

This West African Peanut Soup is creamy, without cream! Give the combo of greens, peanut butter and tomato a chance. I used bok choy (instead of collard greens) and a red curry paste (instead of the sriracha) and it turned out great! I recommend serving it over brown rice.

Just Finished Reading:
This one is actually a re-read. I don't read a lot of books more than once, but Melissa Bank is a special exception. I strongly recommend The Girls' Guide to Hunting and Fishing. This collection of inter-connected stories will have you smiling, cringing and finally cheering. You can read the beginning of the book's first story here.

Vietnam, Part 4: On the Road

So, how would I get to Hoi An, my next destination??? Train? Plane? Bus? Private transfer? A fellow traveler tipped me off onto an even better option! The people you meet, the conversations you have and the tips that you get from fellow travelers are some of my favorite things about traveling.

And so I found the motorcycle tour company, Le Family Riders, that would not only drive me there, but stop to see sights along the way. They were friendly, organized and experienced. I strongly recommend that you use them if you visit the area!

I was picked up at my hotel early in the morning. We drove out of town, stopping for pictures and eventually for coffee. It was a cloudy day, but I was glad for the overcast skies because I was worried about burning since I knew I'd be outside most of the day.

A deceiving photo... I never actually drove this thing. ;)

At a traditional Vietnamese breakfast spot, I met up with other travelers in my group. We went on to visit a local fishing village.

Cloudy and windy, but not cold!

After the second stop we turned off of the main road, for a detour and another stop, curving up to a secret swimming spot. Most of the visitors were Vietnamese and they hung out under shelter, socializing and drinking beer. We decided that we had to take a dip in the water and try out the natural water slide.

A stop at natural pools and waterslides

After our dip in the pools, it was time to head towards lunch, which would be on a floating restaurant. 

A view back at the town towards the floating restaurant where we had a seafood lunch feast.

Next, it was time to go up and over the mountains, pass through Da Nang and arrive in Hoi An. Here is a video of us cruising up the hill! Mom, please note that helmets were worn the entire time. 

I guess this road is a famous twisty and turny uphill climb and has been featured in shows like Top Gear. It's a popular spot for locals to come and take photos. We saw several wedding photo shoots taking place as we climbed upwards. 

Cheese!

Looking back through the mist from the top.

These teens were playing in the wind and taking selfies - too cute!

View of the coast - the sun did begin to peek out.

Selfie on the back of my ride

Our last stop was the temple on top of Marble Mountain. A lot of the marble used to make decorations and religious statues comes from this mountain and there is a beautiful temple on the top. We left our drivers and bikes below as we whizzed to the top of the mountain in a glass elevator. From there we had some time so we explored the many nooks and caves, took pictures of the coastal views around (it is near Da Nang) and then descended via the stairs.

Winding around the different prayer spots

Garden and Buddha

Steps leading to the very tippy top of the mountain

And the view from the top!

Hi Mom! These marble statues look like Tarzi! ;)

Eventually a very long day ended at my hotel in Hoi An. Stay tuned for the last chapter in my series on Vietnam! (It probably won't be next week... we are on fall break and I will be in Thailand, where blogger doesn't work.)

I just finished reading:

The Heart Goes Last by Margaret Atwood - I think this is her newest novel and it is the first Atwood I have read. I liked it. It did get weirder than I thought it would at first, but it was pretty engrossing and definitely creative. I'm looking forward to discussing it at book club later this month.

Human Dark with Sugar by Brenda Shaughnessy - I don't read a lot of poetry, but Y recommended this book to me and Shaughnessy is amazing. It's definitely a book of poems that I will go back to.

And what I am really excited to listen to:

One of my favorite artists, Conor Oberst, is releasing a new record. You can hear it and read an article from NPR here. 

Trekking to Kyaiktiyo!

My loyal readers will remember my trip to Golden Rock, aka Kyaiktiyo, in November 2014 (for a refresher, check out the post here).

As I am now well into my second year in Myanmar, I definitely miss nature and being able to get outside and hike. So, when I saw that a three day weekend was approaching, I asked my friend HPA for recommendations to get my outside fix. She suggested Golden Rock and the idea of a road trip to the base and a hike to the top took form. The rock, by the way, is said to be floating on the edge of the mountain due to one of Buddha's hairs underneath it.

Sunglasses, seatbelts, let's go!

We left Saturday morning and it took us about six hours to get to the town at the base of Golden Rock (yes, we stopped for snacks and lunch). We filled the car with girl talk and good tunes as we made our way out of Yangon, through small towns, twisting and turning until we reached Kinpun.

The Road.

We arrived late afternoon, checked into the adorable Golden Sunrise Hotel (the same place I stayed before) and wandered into town. The town was buzzing with activity and we made our way to the main street, admiring locally made snacks, sandals and souvenirs. We both bought Kyaiktiyo t-shirts and I tried on a lot of locally-made sandals, but none of the Asian sizes were big enough to fit my US size 8 feet.

Kinpun at dusk

I discovered a new vegan gluten free food that I love, ka dett. This snack is made from a finely shredded tree root, which is then fried with chilis or garlic. There are many stalls with mounds of ka dett, which you can buy for less than fifty cents per package. It tastes a little like a potato chip and it's crispy with a chewier texture.

Ka dett - my new favorite snack!

After our walk, we returned to the hotel, relaxing in the room and later sharing vegetables, fish and rice at the hotel restaurant for dinner. Although we giggled and talked like young girls at a slumber party, we knew well enough to tuck ourselves into our twin beds and turn off the lights early enough to get a solid 8 hours of sleep before our trekking adventure. I think we both felt excited, but nervous, about our upcoming uphill climb. 

Our hike begins!

On Sunday, we woke up around 7, got dressed, packed and enjoyed a breakfast with fresh coffee at the hotel before stepping out onto the road at 8:11 to begin our hike. We smiled and chatted as we followed the street to town and then pushed past where we had shopped the evening before to step onto the dirt path that slowly rose way up the mountain. 

The steps were the most challenging physical aspect of the hike for me. 

We passed many small shops, traditional homes, children playing, stray dogs and we crossed paths with hikers descending, who must have started the climb down shortly after sunrise.

We are headed the right way!

Downward dog

On the trail

I was wearing my new hiking boots and backpack that R helped me pick out in Bangkok. They both worked great! Backpack felt like it floated above my shoulders and I didn't get any blisters. You may notice my skirt... I've preferred hiking in a skirt since I have been hiking, which in my family means since I have been walking (my dad and some family photos can vouch for this - pink frills on top of Angel's Landing in Zion).

The path varied between cement steps, stones and dirt.

We slowly twisted higher and higher. The way up was gradual enough most of the time. There were shady spots to rest and enjoy a cool drink and it felt amazing to be outside of the city breathing fresh mountain air.

Shops are common

In some ways this trek is an easy one - it's a well-trodden route and there are many shops along the way, so it's easy to buy snacks, water tissues and even hot food. We tried deep fried gourd battered in lentil flour at one rest break. 

Up I go...

The views keep getting better.

We took our time, resting frequently, eating snacks and drinking water. My favorite part of the hike was the ridge, offering stunning panoramic views. After climbing upwards all morning, it was nice to be on a flat-ish trail for awhile.

I <3 Myanmar

Selfie from the ridge, getting tired, but still happy!

The last part of the hike was the most grueling, the sun was at its hottest, our bodies were growing tired and the trail worked its way to a steep incline. But, we never got cranky and we both agreed that the challenge was more in the mind, than the body. We just had to keep going!

Rest stop!

And then... we pushed up one more hill and looked to the left and we had arrived!!! We walked past the trucks that bring most people up and made our way in.

I had to stop at the office and pay the foreigner's fee, but we used the opportunity to get a victory photo.

We officially made it!

Next stop was a restaurant for a late lunch of vegetarian fried rice, lephet thoke (Burmese tea leaf salad) and tea. From there, we wandered around, taking in the whole scene (and taking lots of photos - let me know if you want to see more the next time I visit you or you visit me). As women, we are not allowed out onto the platform to touch, or add additional gold leaf, to the rock.

Sitting at the top

In front of the monastery

Good hiking partners below the rock!

And one more.

As the sun dropped lower in the sky we knew it was time to head back down. This time, we would be riding, though! We piled into a truck, squeezing next to other visitors (mostly locals, though you do see foreign visitors as well), happy to sit for this leg of the journey.

Transport to and from the top

Here's a little video to give you an idea of what the ride is like. Don't worry, Mom!

Sunset views on the way down. 

After descending, we did the short walk back to our hotel. My shower felt amazing and we did a little bit of gentle yoga before tucking into another great dinner at the Golden Sunrise and then stretching out into our beds. 

The next day was mostly our trip back to Yangon, but I can't wait for our next road trip and trek, HPA!!!

So, what are we listening to on our road trip? From my iPhone:

• CHVRCHES - Every Open Eye
• Bomba estéreo - Amanecer
• Purity Ring - Another Eternity
• and a mix of pop, rock and electronic from HPA's library.