Seattle Love

Hey Seattle, I love you! I realized that I never wrote about my former-home city. When this lil blog was born three and a half years ago, I was focusing on TRAVEL and my transition to Myanmar. Seattle did get an honorary mention as my road trip and travels began, but I think she deserves her own post; don't you?

As part of my USA visit, I booked two weeks in Seattle (note to self, and friends, please remind me, next visit should be 3+) at the beginning of December. No, that's not the most beautiful weather time to visit, but my friends look just as good in the gray. ;) When the clouds finally parted, as we descended, this was my first glimpse.

Seattle, impressive rain or shine

The first week I stayed at R's lovely home, visited a lot with Y and hit up some favorite spots. Araya's is an old favorite vegan Thai restaurant. My first meal in Seattle was at their Madison valley location; they had one restaurant when I first moved to Seattle (U-District), now they have three!

At Araya's with J, yes, I visited more than once. ;)

One of my favorite things about Seattle is the live music scene. It's also one of my most-missed aspects of living abroad. Seattle has small, medium and giant-sized music venues and there is something interesting happening every single night of the week. While living in Seattle I saw plenty of shows at the Paramount and I was amazed to see that another old favorite, the Pixies, had decided to visit Seattle on their tour at the same time as me. I managed to get a ticket to the sold-out show and they rocked as much as always. La la, love them!

A familiar landmark

As amazing as ever

Plum Bistro is an all-vegan restaurant on Capitol Hill. It's a cute, but tiny spot and they don't take reservations. Their mac n yease recipe is an experience (to die for!) and everything on the menu is delicious, whether you have dietary restrictions or not.

R and I visit Plum

It's an interesting experience to be in the states without a car. I spent a lot of money on taxis, Lyfts, Ubers, walked and got back into the bus system. I enjoy not having to own a vehicle, but that's something that is a lot harder to manage if you live in the US.

Waiting for my bus

In my first week, I also visited my beloved Eastside Prep. It has expanded and the physical layout and campus have changed a lot! Still, after visiting with former students, administrators and teachers, I would say that the soul of the place hasn't changed. Teachers: if you want to work in Seattle, apply here! Parents: if you want your kids to learn and grow in a supportive yet encouraged-to-stretch environment, apply here!

Another very vegetarian, vegan and gluten free friendly restaurant is Cafe Flora in Madison Valley. I love their tofu scrambles and coffee in the morning. Gosh, it's easy to have dietary restrictions and live in Seattle.

R, Y and I caffeinate and prepare for the day at Flora

After a week in the city I was whisked a little farther north for a couple of days to reunite with A and A (elementary school friends!). We chatted, chatted, joked and chatted one morning at the Skagit Valley Co-op in Mt. Vernon. They have a great natural market and lots of deli dishes too. My favorite was the turmeric almond milk latte.

Two old friends and one very new one.

My second week began back in Seattle, but West Seattle this time. Have I mentioned all the sunny days that Seattle shined on me? Maybe she was trying to woo me back... Too bad, during my stay here I signed a contract with would pull me south. 

Seattle skyline from West Seattle

I had my very own room at J and M's, J graciously let me use her car to attend Yoga training in Redmond at Sattva Yoga (I'm very close to finishing my 500-hour cert!), M made the best popcorn, J made the best vegan chilli, Bowie is the cuddliest kitty-company and J and I even had time to do a little touristing, too.

I was in town just in time for a show at the Skylark, featuring many friends and former colleagues playing their music.

One Sunday morning there was a reunion at A and V's new place in West Seattle. Everyone was moving too quickly for me to get any great photos (including the twins!), but here they are!

V oversees the prep

A in position barista!

J and I decided that our favorite spot for breakfast/brunch is Chaco Canyon Cafe. They have kombucha on tap and lots of delicious organic options!

Pike's Place Market, downtown is a not-to-miss spot on any Seattle tour and this trip was no exception.

Required photo shoot!

The last day was a walk along West Seattle with this one and lunch at my new favorite Thai spot outside of Thailand - Buddha Ruksa - before my airport drop. Time went super-fast and I hope I'll have time to see everyone next trip.

Thanks to all my friends for hosting me, treating me and driving (or letting me drive!) around! I've got such great memories of our time together. See you next time! Or, maybe... in Mexico???

The Best of Chiang Mai

I've wanted to get back to Chiang Mai ever since I visited with students for a school trip. A friend who moved there a couple of years ago and an awesome professional development workshop (Proficiency Models in the Foreign Language Classroom!) finally gave me the reason to return.

I flew out on Myanmar Air on a Friday evening.

You walk out on the runway to catch this plane!

My window seat.

Pretty dusky views... BUT that colorful haze is pollution. Yangon is one of the worst cities in SE Asia. :(

My friend, J (yes, of Laneway fame), picked me up at the airport and off we zoomed on her scooter. We enjoyed gluten free, vegan pasta and duty-free Spanish wine with her boyfriend, cat and three dogs and we set our plan for the weekend...

The Best Coffee: Ristr8tto - great selection of beans and beverages, artfully crafted. Coffee should be treated like art, in my opinion.

...with soy milk and water to stay hydrated. 

The Best Wrap: Food for Thought - Being gluten-free, I don't eat a lot of wraps, but Food for Thought makes their own and they are amazing!

Avocado wrap and sweet potato fries

Best Place to Wander: Downtown - While Chiang Mai may not be as pedestrian-friendly as parts of Europe, it is a much more walkable city than Yangon. Parts of downtown are closed from traffic, there are great night markets, plenty of massage parlors and loads of shops.

A temple near downtown

There are pedestrian paths along these canals for miles.

Best Saturday Night: Wine and art! We cleaned up our mess, promise Mom.

My kitten painting amidst the craftermath...

Best Boutique Hotel: Kate and Hasu - Located just outside of old town, this hotel is a find. It's modern, clean and great value. Staff are friendly and helpful and breakfast is included. There is also a roof deck with loungers and a pool! I stayed with J the first two nights, but needed to be nearer my conference on Monday and Tuesday so this was my home. 

My little room - probably the best bed I have slept on in Asia.

Pre-conference coffee poolside

Iced coffee, coconut milk yogurt and thai sticky rice dessert (made blue by natural dyes from the peaflower)

Best Place for a Conference: The Shangri-La! This is probably the best swanky hotel as well, but it has the price tag to match.

We attended the conference in style

Best Street Statue: These rats!

Best Yoga Studio: Namo is a little studio near old town. Classes are held on the second floor studio, there are plenty of props and knowledgeable teachers. 

Best All-Around Vegan Restaurant: While many places in Chiang Mai offer vegan options, Vegan Heaven boasts a 100% vegan menu with many tasty Thai, Asian and even a few Western options. I ate here twice, but didn't snap a picture.

Best Chocolate Cake: Amrita Garden has a lovely outdoor seating area, many delicious vegan and gf food options, including this decadent chocolate cake.

Best Comfort Foods: Butter is Better has many classic diner options. They cater to those with food challenges as well, but it is tricky if you are gluten-free and vegan, as many of their gluten-free options contain eggs and many of their vegan options rely on wheat.

Best Baked Goods AND Veggie Thai: Blue Diamond is another little oasis in Chiang Mai. It has a beautiful patio, gf and vegan muffins, cookies and cakes and amazing Thai food.

Best friend in Chiang Mai goes to this one. :)

Just Finished Reading:

A History of God by Karen Armstrong - This book delivers what the title promises. A fascinating and educational read.

Just Finished Making:

Vegan and gluten-free Mac-n-cheese! Whether you have food challenges or not, this is a healthy take on my childhood favorite.

Vietnam, Part 1: Hanoi

Vietnam. There is so much to say about this country, the many different cultures that exist within its relatively small space, the contrasts that define it, its tangled past with my country and the experience of spending time there now. It's been intimidating to write about this trip, so I've decided to break it up into various posts. These entries won't even try to cover everything; I will limit myself to my experience, which is a limited experience! I spent two weeks exploring mostly central Vietnam during spring break of 2016.

As all trips do, this one began as soon as I started researching the country and became real when I booked the ticket. Some of my older family members and friends asked me about the historical places I might see and I admit that I brushed off their comments; I wasn't going on a historical site-seeing trip. I wanted to see a new country, have some outdoor adventures, try new foods and enjoy time away from school.

Although plenty from my trip will look like vacation, it is impossible to visit Vietnam and not learn about its past. While I am still no expert, all of this history does intermingle with any trip to this fascinating country, adding perspective to even the simplest plans for a holiday.

I started my trip in Hanoi. It's an easy city to fly in and out of and there are direct flights from Yangon! I spent most of my time wandering the city (my favorite way to get to know a place), drinking coffee, sampling food and I found a great yoga studio, too. 

Yoga class, vegetarian lunch and kombucha - yes!

Hanoi street at dusk

I hope the above video works for you so that you get an idea of what the traffic is like in Hanoi! It is world-famous for a reason!

Old jets outside of the war museum

City park - view from rooftop bar

I walked around the park pictured above and enjoyed a happy hour nearby. While I love all that cities have to offer, I live in another very busy city and after a few days I was ready for a change of pace.

GOAL: I am going to publish one post per week, from now until October break. My plan is to post on Tuesdays (Look Ma, this week I'm early!). That means you will get four new posts from me in the next month! Stay tuned!

My favorite food blog right now:

Simple Vegan Food Blog - it's written by a Spanish couple, but in English! They focus on what the title says, simple recipes that are vegan. Some are Spanish-inspired, which is a bonus for me. Their tortilla is amazing. I have missed eating tortilla ever since I found out I was allergic to eggs years ago.

My playlist as I trained for the Camino de Santiago (subject of a future post):

• Grimes - Art Angels
• Chvrches - Every Open Eye
• Bomba Estéreo - Amanecer 
• twenty one pilots - Blurryface

Recent Reads:

• The Space Between Us - Thrity Umrigar - this one was for my Yangon Book club and for me it was a very compelling and fast read, exploring issues of class, gender and friendship across generations in Bombay.
• Tiny Beautiful Things - Cheryl Strayed - by the author of Wild, this is a collection of her responses to an advice column that she wrote. Great stuff about love, life, relationships and Strayed's delivery always emphasizes compassion. 
• Room - Emma Donoghue - I started this book and had a hard time putting it down... finished it in just four days! There is a movie version, too, which deviates quite a bit from the plot in the second half of the book, but it is a well-done film.
• Is Everyone Hanging Out Without Me? (And Other Concerns) - Mindy Kaling - fun and funny. 
• Bluebeard - Kurt Vonnegut - I have been a Vonnegut fan since I first read Cat's Cradle in high school. This isn't one of his best novels (in my opinion), but it presents some interesting points about art, especially its longevity. 

Around Yangon: Special Events and Routine

Although I have settled into routine and many Myanmar occurrences are now part of my new normal, I still find myself struck with awe for this place. I love riding in taxis (when we are moving, not stuck in traffic) and just taking in the city from the window.

Selfie with my new glasses inside a taxi.

One of my favorite routines is swimming in the school's pool. Summer is in full swing here and it's hot!

One of the things I like about my school is the great community of international teachers that are here. Our students are respectful and hard-working and my job is fun everyday. One of the annual events is Fun Fair. It had a great turnout of teachers, students and parents. 

View from above.

The event I helped chaperone was this giant ball. I did not get the chance to try it out. The lines rivaled Disneyland! 

I volunteered for the dunking tank, which didn't actually work, so I had to "dunk" myself when a student hit the target.

A couple of the teachers are working really hard to get one of our lovely and loving local street dogs adopted.

And here's a video of the organized chaos which is a school event.

This shot is of the Shwe Dagon Pagoda, from a park at one of the city's lakes. During a holiday, a friend and I decided to explore; you can walk almost the entire way around. It's technically a park, but much of the path is right next to the road, not exactly a break from city noises. 

My Spanish 2 class has been begging for a field trip all year. Well, all Spanish classes beg for field trips all the time... Needless to say, there aren't many Spanish activities or places to visit in Yangon. However, we just finished an animals unit and we were beginning a food unit, so with the help of a couple of student organizers, we planned a trip to the Yangon Zoo and then Sai's Tacos, which, although not up to Dad's standards, is one of only Mexican-ish options here. 

We scheduled the field trip on a professional development day; I couldn't justify missing class for these activities. The field trip was optional, but I had 10 students sign up. It was cute to see them at the zoo - many had never been or hadn't been for years and it was interesting to take in a zoo through the lens of a different culture. The safety features we have in the states (high fences, solid dividers, plenty of zoo attendants) do not exist in such full form here!

Look how close we are to the hippo! All fingers returned home safely.

 The animals seemed well-cared for, but many of the zoo's visitors did not behave! We saw people giving the monkeys candies and cookies... and no zoo employees did anything about it!

Next to the monkeys.

El cocodrilo.

Los elefantes.

The elephants seemed particularly happy and I couldn't object to the visitors feeding them bananas. Humans and elephants have a long history together in Southeast Asia. 

The cats did make me sad. There were a lot of tigers at the zoo, including one beautiful white tiger, and two lions. Their concrete cages did not seem like quite enough space for them. 

El tigre triste.

All in all, it was a fun day - Spanish was spoken, we saw lots of animals and we ate Mexican food! For some of the kids it was their first time encountering a taco or burrito, so I had to teach them how to hold and approach these items. 

Speaking of food, I continue to enjoy my Vegan Gluten Free food club. We recently updated our name to Vegans Anonymous! We get together about once a month and share food items, sometimes for brunch, sometimes for dinner. Here are a few shots from our last get-together. 

These look like REAL crepes!

From top, moving clockwise, the toppings are: powdered sugar and lemon juice, maple syrup, cashew nut frosting and homemade peanut butter and banana!!! 

Jessica shows off her creation - thin mints!

Do you want the recipes? I bet you do! Here you go:

Vegan Buckwheat Crepes

Vegan Cheese

Vegan GF Thin Mints

And ending with another cool Yangon video. Check it out and then come see this place for yourself!

My friends and I debated the reasons in this article (some do not care for the cuisine here), but the fact remains that Myanmar is a fascinating place and I recommend coming to see it for yourself!

What I'm listening to: new Modest Mouse (Strangers to Ourselves), new AWOLNATION (Run), new Bob Dylan (Shadows in the Night)

What I'm reading:

You + Me: A Collection of Short Stories & Poems by Leslie Li Hikida, I'm lucky enough to call this author my friend! Check out her blog and buy this collection on Amazon.  

Just finished: 

We Need New Names by NoViolet Bulawayo

Americanah by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie

Blog posts I still owe you:

• Bagan
• Chiang Mai
• Mandalay and Pwin Oo Lwin
• ...and probably one from my upcoming trip to Taiwan!