But, first I had to get here... my internal alarm dinged just before 7 and I was awake. I did some stretching in bed and then gathered my things so I could pack up outside of the shared room. I went downstairs for coffee at 7:30 and happily sipped my americano, caught up with friends and family on the wonderful what’s app technology and ate some of my gluten free bread with strawberry jam. The television showed the news and it was all bad. I lingered as there was no reason to leave in the dark (sunrise is almost at 9 now).
Around 8:20 the sky was dark blue so I set off. I gazed at the silvery sliver moon, carefully followed my shells and crossed a bridge leaving town.
I didn’t take too many pictures to start because I was just really soaking in my last day.
Storm and fire stories have been in the news, but I saw blue skies and only smelled pine, eucalyptus and farms. I walked and walked, not taking breaks. There are days, and times, when the Camino still feels very hard, my backpack very heavy or my body very tired, even with all my practice. But, I also feel stronger and I know my pace has picked up.
I ran into a French pilgrim (heading to Finisterre) that I’d stayed with way back in Estella (Day 7). We stopped and chatted about post-Camino plans, the sea and what the way felt like now. We are both ready for the next thing. It’s good! It’s so crazy-cool how you can see someone weeks later and still have a sense of camrederie.
Turning back towards the ocean has not lost its charm.
At this point the Camino begins its descent into Muxia and it is absolutely unbelievably beautiful.
Coming into town.
I thought I would stay at one more Municipal Albergue, but it wasn’t open at noon as I passed, I thought I would have a coffee and a wander and head back, but then I remembered H’s recommendation from a few days earlier. I happily checked in to a private albergue in the center of town, received my Muxia Compostela certificate and visited the grocery store. I made a salad and some rice here and then it was nap time.
Raquel, my backpack, next to my bed. This place is great - individual charging stations and night stands, privacy curtains and lockers. And they even let you use a real towel!
Wandering around Muxia is a great end to Camino life. The sea breeze, chilled out vibe and smiles from fellow pilgrims all add to the town’s atmosphere.
First entering town:
The harbor:
Seaside street:
More boots and beaches:
Rain has blown in this afternoon, so I’ve had some time for writing, music and relaxing at the albergue. The scene has really changed. I am on the Coast of Death at the end of the world; it seems appropriate that the weather turn dark. Despite the clouds, rain and wind, I set out just before 7 in the evening to walk the last kilometer out to the edge of it all; I’m from Seattle!, rain won’t stop me, I thought.
The beginning of the climb up:
The weather didn’t stop me, but it was fierce! I made my way carefully, following the arrows along the path and then rocks.
They went past the cemetery.
I saw a dog eating some chicken bones that someone had left and it stopped me. I realized it had been a long time since I saw a stray.
I made it to the top of the hill and looked back at Muxia. Same town, but different look! And, the dog had followed me! He seemed to know where to go, we kept moving closer towards the coast.
Laughing in the wind and rain; what else do you do?!?
The path evened out, and, well, became an actual path again. I followed my doggy guide.
We saw the sites:
An amazing church stands out there:
And I took one last picture of the lighthouse before I started fearing for my phone’s wellbeing. I was drenched!
I zipped my precious in my raincoat pocket and hurried back to town and my albergue.
Dinner at the albergue, using the dryer, catching up on the phone with Y and a little planning for tomorrow followed. Tomorrow: Santiago, Thursday: Madrid, Friday: Málaga!!!
I have at least two more Camino blogs to write (what I packed, the differences between the French and Original ways), but entry 44 ends this creative project on 17/10/17, 6 weeks after it started. I do like numbers. Thank you again to all my readers and to everyone who helped me get to the Camino. I hope you will experience it, too, one day.
Buen camino a todos.
Kilometers walked: 21.45 (Fitbit), 15.7 (Guidebook from the pilgrim office in Santiago). I walked all over town and out to the lighthouse and back. :)
