Saturday, September 30, 2017

Day 26: San Juan de Villapañada - Bodenaya

Wow, what a day! I won't be able to fit it all in here because I am walking hard and having way too much fun. But, here's an overview...

Another Amazing sunrise:

So many beautiful flowers and stone houses:

Tiny mountain villages:


Walking time, sharing stories, picnics, coffees, feet-soaking, learning history and new words with friends. (Pictures forthcoming)

The ever-beautiful Camino:


We didn't get lost in the fog!


And to top it all off, incredible hospitality with heart in Bodenaya. Shared dinner, ONE agreed upon wake up time for tomorrow (6:52am), lots of swapped stories and smiles all at a "donativo" price. Muy buena onda. ;)




I'm going to bed happy. I hope you will too. 

Kilometers walked: 25.71 (Fitbit), 25.60 (Buen Camino app). Plenty of ups and downs today, too. Hey, hey, pretty close today! :D

Friday, September 29, 2017

Day 25: Oviedo - San Juan de Villapañada

The soft stirrings of my roommates woke up my brain a little bit after 6, I let my eyes stay closed and stretched and twisted in bed before opening them and getting up. I was ready, packed and out before 7. Walking with the stars while the city still slept was peaceful and I soon spotted two French pilgrims and my Canadian friend from the albergue. We shared coffee before heading on our ways out of town. I lost the markers and went in a little circle, but for the most part the way was well-marked. It is beautiful! 

I can definitely tell I am in a new part of Spain. The soft green hills rolled along as I followed country roads out of the city. The path became more rural, rising and falling, passing through tiny villages and lots of farmland. It is a different landscape, but there are still familiar "faces."

I feel like I have walked into a picture storybook. I would not take a second look if the Seven Dwarves marched by or if I bumped into Alice. 

I visited a few lovely small chapels. 



An overdue snack, rest stop, bathroom stop and water refill finally happened in Peñaflor. I ordered a salad and refilled my water (I picked out the egg.).

The two Russian pilgrims that I kept crossing paths with ordered cider, a traditional drink from this region. It was served to them in a very interesting contraption which sucked the liquid out of the bottle and funneled it into the glass. So cool! They shared a sip with me. The spirit of sharing is one of the beautiful things about the Camino. 

The day was hot as I moved on, crosssing another bridge and making my way towards Grado, which is the end of the first stage according to some guides. I had heard great things about the albergue in the next village, so I pushed on. 

I bought some snacks in Grado and rested in a park. And moved on! Uphill! I was probably about halfway there (a couple of k to go) when a truck pulled up next to me, the driver greeted me in Spanish and said that he was Domingo - we had spoken the day before! He told me to get in! I hesitated, he insisted, "it's hot; it's still a little ways," I conceded, calling him my angel. :) They say that the Camino gives you what you need; I guess I needed a lift. 
Check out the spot:

And the view! Oviedo is way in the background. 

And my new friends: 

Domingo, our super host, takes a selfie with us. 

I should explain the name, Camino Primitivo, you may be thinking your Spanglish understands this word, but it actually means original. It's the way Alfonso II went to visit the apóstol and it's the first path from which we have pilgrimage information. 

It's been a lovely, restful evening here. Everyone cooked and shared food, B from Oregon did her stand up routine (and I interpreted into Spanish!) and we learned more about tomorrow's path from Domingo.  It's not as chilly as the Francés has been (at least this evening) and it's definitely a less crowded path. Tomorrow another big day awaits, but I have a reservation at the next spot (along with my other friends in the picture), so I don't have to worry or rush for a bed. It's early, but so far, I'm loving the Primitivo experience. 

Kilometers walked: 26.97 (Fitbit), 32.78 (Buen Camino app). There should be a little discrepancy, but not that much! 

Wednesday, September 27, 2017

Day 24: León - Oviedo (Bus!)

Like Russian nesting dolls, there are caminos within the Camino. Each etapa, stage, that you walk in one day is a camino and there are times when the path splits and you have a choice of routes. I started the Camino Francés in St. Jean because this is the most well-traveled camino and I wanted to cover the ground that I didn't have time for last year (and I did repeat the Pamplona - Navarrete section), but going forward on the Francés now would mean about two weeks of repetían. Repetition that would not be ugly or bad, just a path already walked. 

This fact directed me to the Camino Primitivo, which begins in Oviedo and also ends in Santiago. I will be covering about the same amount of kilometers and stages, but I will see a lot of Asturias and I'll pilgrim my way on new paths. Here's a park path in Oviedo:

Today is essentially a rest day for me... I did spot a shell in Oviedo, but I had a two hour bus ride and then time to explore another drop-dead gorgeous Spanish city, including another cathedral tour. 





I stocked up on a few mini-size toiletry items and met H from Canada for a salad before tucking myself in for a good night's sleep at the albergue. It's an old school!

A special note: Thanks for following me! I appreciate folks letting me know they are there... I know I have readers in Europe, the US and Asia! This blog started 3 years ago when I moved to Myanmar as a way to share with family and friends back home, but it's growing up! The creative experiment of writing everyday on the Camino has been good for my brain so far, I plan to keep it going. ¡Gracias!

Kilometers walked: 15.33 (Fitbit). Normal travel walking (to and from bus stations) and wandering around Oviedo. 

Day 23: Puente Villarente - León

A huge and delicious dinner, a smooth night's sleep thanks to a quiet, half-empty albergue room and a coffee to start the morning and I was on my way to León. 

My Spanish friends soon walked ahead, but I didn't mind taking it a little leisurely as there weren't so many kilometers between me and the city. 

As per usual, arriving to a city is a different aesthetic experience than walking through the countryside. I stopped for an apple, a rest and some organizing in a small plaza on the outskirts of León. Old Camino friends were already in or arriving and we were trying to organize and meet up. 

I dropped my backpack at the albergue (only 4 beds in a room, our own private bathroom and shower too! 10 euros), said hello to my 3 roommates and followed the adrenaline that always comes with arriving to a new city out!

To-do:
  • Bus station
  • Toiletry shopping
  • Vodafone
  • Wandering
  • Food!
León is gorgeous. I can't believe it, here I am falling in love with another Spanish city. Can you see why?

A touch of fall in the trees along a pedestrian street.

Gaudí museum 

Shops in the center 

Cathedral

The errands all ticked off, I met D for some tapas in the Barrio Húmedo (humid neighborhood because of all the spots to drink...) and we sampled chorizo, morcilla (both Spanish sausages), octopus, ham and peppers. 

The crazy coincidence of the afternoon was that one of D's earlier Camino friends walked by while we were sitting on a patio and it turns out she was my roommate! K joined us and soon E came too. It was sweet to see how excited they all were to see each other again. I had predicted that León would be a mini-Santiago as far as surprises and happy reunions. It was. 

My happy reunion came later with Ch's arrival. Thanks to K for capturing the moment. :)

Ch, D and I headed out to visit an outdoor store and we all ooh-ed and ahh-ed over the beautiful, new and lightweight gear. I bought socks, leggings and a new knife/fork/spoon since my other one had broken. 

Next up was a visit to the gorgeous cathedral. The stained glass is amazing, in size, detail and color, the most impressive I can remember seeing. 





Some more tapas and it was time for "hasta luego"... my bus ticket is taking me off of the Camino Francés (the main Camino you hear about) to the original Camino Primitivo which starts in Oviedo. It is a bittersweet moment since I have made good friends, but I have already walked the portion that they will do next and I had planned to make this jump. I knew I had to stick with my plan and walk my Camino. Doing what you need to do for you is one of the Camino's lessons. 

Hasta luego, D! I hope to see all these friends again when our two paths join, about two days before Santiago. 

Kilometers walked: 19.81 (Fitbit), 12.51 (Buen Camino app). Plenty of walking was done around León. Lots of walking. 

Monday, September 25, 2017

Day 22: El Burgo Ranero - Puente Villarente

Today an accidental alarm woke us up before we had planned, but we took advantage and started walking. The sunrise is always a great reward for getting up early. This photo is looking west, forwards! 

A long, dry 12 k lay between our start and the first pueblo. Luckily, there were some benches and well situated parks to rest along the way. The scenery is changing a little, today I saw corn fields, the mountains appear closer and there are signs we are near a larger city. 

I love the blue blue sky, the bright green grass and the yellow crops. 

Crossing over the bridge to find today's albergue. 

Check in space at the albergue, €5 tonight. :D

This afternoon/evening was spent writing, researching and chilling at the albergue. Researching what?!? Stay tuned!

León tomorrow! 

Kilometers walked: 21.93 (Fitbit), 24.77 (Buen Camino app)

Day 21: Sahagún - El Burgo Ranero

Today I was still dozing when the 7:15 am alarm sounded. A short walk in the morning light and I met my friends for coffee before leaving the pueblo. The meseta continues!


I realize that perhaps I haven't shown all the Spanish foods since there are some that I can't eat. D helped me out with a few pictures.  

Meat is popular in Spain. 

So are sandwiches on thick bread. Here is one masterpiece. 

And here is our snack stop - an espresso shot for me (walnuts and rice cakes not shown), beers and bocadillos for the boys. 

There are plenty of veggies too. :)

And of course vino. 

Relaxing in the garden:

And the sky and steeple on the walk back to the hostel. 

Kilometers walked: 17.92 (Fitbit), 18.19 (Buen Camino app). Today was another easier day. Tomorrow the pace will pick back up again!