Day 24: León - Oviedo (Bus!)

Like Russian nesting dolls, there are caminos within the Camino. Each etapa, stage, that you walk in one day is a camino and there are times when the path splits and you have a choice of routes. I started the Camino Francés in St. Jean because this is the most well-traveled camino and I wanted to cover the ground that I didn't have time for last year (and I did repeat the Pamplona - Navarrete section), but going forward on the Francés now would mean about two weeks of repetían. Repetition that would not be ugly or bad, just a path already walked. 

This fact directed me to the Camino Primitivo, which begins in Oviedo and also ends in Santiago. I will be covering about the same amount of kilometers and stages, but I will see a lot of Asturias and I'll pilgrim my way on new paths. Here's a park path in Oviedo:

Today is essentially a rest day for me... I did spot a shell in Oviedo, but I had a two hour bus ride and then time to explore another drop-dead gorgeous Spanish city, including another cathedral tour. 

I stocked up on a few mini-size toiletry items and met H from Canada for a salad before tucking myself in for a good night's sleep at the albergue. It's an old school!

A special note: Thanks for following me! I appreciate folks letting me know they are there... I know I have readers in Europe, the US and Asia! This blog started 3 years ago when I moved to Myanmar as a way to share with family and friends back home, but it's growing up! The creative experiment of writing everyday on the Camino has been good for my brain so far, I plan to keep it going. ¡Gracias!

Kilometers walked: 15.33 (Fitbit). Normal travel walking (to and from bus stations) and wandering around Oviedo. 

Day 23: Puente Villarente - León

A huge and delicious dinner, a smooth night's sleep thanks to a quiet, half-empty albergue room and a coffee to start the morning and I was on my way to León. 

My Spanish friends soon walked ahead, but I didn't mind taking it a little leisurely as there weren't so many kilometers between me and the city. 

As per usual, arriving to a city is a different aesthetic experience than walking through the countryside. I stopped for an apple, a rest and some organizing in a small plaza on the outskirts of León. Old Camino friends were already in or arriving and we were trying to organize and meet up. 

I dropped my backpack at the albergue (only 4 beds in a room, our own private bathroom and shower too! 10 euros), said hello to my 3 roommates and followed the adrenaline that always comes with arriving to a new city out!

To-do:

• Bus station
• Toiletry shopping
• Vodafone
• Wandering
• Food!

León is gorgeous. I can't believe it, here I am falling in love with another Spanish city. Can you see why?

A touch of fall in the trees along a pedestrian street.

Gaudí museum 

Shops in the center 

Cathedral

The errands all ticked off, I met D for some tapas in the Barrio Húmedo (humid neighborhood because of all the spots to drink...) and we sampled chorizo, morcilla (both Spanish sausages), octopus, ham and peppers. 

The crazy coincidence of the afternoon was that one of D's earlier Camino friends walked by while we were sitting on a patio and it turns out she was my roommate! K joined us and soon E came too. It was sweet to see how excited they all were to see each other again. I had predicted that León would be a mini-Santiago as far as surprises and happy reunions. It was. 

My happy reunion came later with Ch's arrival. Thanks to K for capturing the moment. :)

Ch, D and I headed out to visit an outdoor store and we all ooh-ed and ahh-ed over the beautiful, new and lightweight gear. I bought socks, leggings and a new knife/fork/spoon since my other one had broken. 

Next up was a visit to the gorgeous cathedral. The stained glass is amazing, in size, detail and color, the most impressive I can remember seeing. 

Some more tapas and it was time for "hasta luego"... my bus ticket is taking me off of the Camino Francés (the main Camino you hear about) to the original Camino Primitivo which starts in Oviedo. It is a bittersweet moment since I have made good friends, but I have already walked the portion that they will do next and I had planned to make this jump. I knew I had to stick with my plan and walk my Camino. Doing what you need to do for you is one of the Camino's lessons. 

Hasta luego, D! I hope to see all these friends again when our two paths join, about two days before Santiago. 

Kilometers walked: 19.81 (Fitbit), 12.51 (Buen Camino app). Plenty of walking was done around León. Lots of walking.