Vietnam, Part 3: Hue

This post describes my time in Hue. I had just two nights in this town and there is a LOT of history to take in so I stayed busy. I enjoyed wandering by the river, a great sushi restaurant (two meals!) and checking out the night market in addition to all of the historical sites.

I spent a few hot days trekking all over the town and I only made it to a few of the many enormous historical sites (The Citadel, Tomb of Minh Mang and Thien Mu Pagoda). Since most of the things to see are also huge spaces in which to walk around, this is a place where you get your exercise as you take it all in! To save my feet in between monuments I took a bicycle taxi, river cruise and motorbike taxi to get around.

Dragon detail at the Citadel 

I was really into all the arches at the Citadel

I woke up early to get to the Citadel before the heat, but by early April the hot season was already settling into Vietnam. Lots of water, sunglasses, a hat and sunscreen are recommended if you visit this time of year!

An iced coffee break at the Queen's Room

So this is a thing...you can rent the traditional costumes and dress up and have your photo taken. It seemed popular among young Vietnamese couples. This pair was delighted when I asked if I could take their photo.

Stunning architecture that was NOT destroyed by war bombs (a lot of the palace was)

Close up of detail

During the hottest part of the day I trekked around the Tomb of Minh Mang. There were a lot of stairs! I also enjoyed a fresh coconut in the shade and watched butterflies play on the lake. 

Sun or sun, climbing stairs!

It was too hot for much lunch, so I had snacks and drank lots of water as I explored each of these spots. I enjoyed my motorbike taxi because the breeze was refreshing (and a helmet was worn).

Part of Thien Mu Pagoda; a restful stop compared to the rest of my day.

To end my day I decided that I had to try the Dragon Boats that cruise the river. It took some haggling to get a decent fare back to the center because most people rent the boats for the entire day. It was not exactly a glamorous ride, but it was a nice change of pace and the dragons sure do look cool.

Boat ride back to the center...where I could hop off and have a rest in my room before dinner.

The next challenge of the trip was to figure out transportation from Hue to Hoi An... I had heard there was a train and a bus, and lots of people also hire private cabs. Find out which option I went with next week! 

New Old Favorite:

I have been a Pixies fan for years. Read about and listen to their new album here.

Interesting Article of the Week:

Does your moral compass change when you are operating in a second language? Studies say yes... Find out why here.

Vietnam, Part 2: Phung Nha and Vinh Moc

Like I said in Part 1, after a few days in Hanoi, I was ready for a change of pace. My friend, P, had recommended this Farmstay, near Phung Nha. Getting out of the constant noise, action and traffic was exactly what I needed. I miss the green of the Pacific Northwest and the relative closeness of so many wonderful outdoor activities near Seattle.

I hopped a very early morning flight and then was picked up by a van, making it to my Farmstay in time for breakfast, served with plenty more of that delicious coffee.

Panoramic view from my terrace...not a city in sight!

Wow, an intense and very real sign!

Sunset over the rice paddies

I had booked a cave tour, but the main "plan" was to relax. The Farmstay has an onsite restaurant and bar, small pool, loads of lounge chairs, bikes and plenty of information about the area. I spent a lot of time reading, lounging by the pool and just hanging out.

The Farmstay also organizes movie nights, projecting films about Vietnam on a big screen outside. The films they cycle through are: The Quiet American, Heaven and Earth and Good Morning, Vietnam. I saw The Quiet American while I was there. 

One excursion involved an "easy" bike ride to the Pub with Cold Beer. This place is a local and international legend; they have a simple menu and the main, er, course is the chicken, which you get to pick out, have killed and then prepared for you. This free range fowl is served up with sautéed local greens, peanut sauce and rice (of course!). 

The ride was not easy, short, relaxing or cool. The day boiled, my borrowed bike lacked any gears and it felt more like torture than vacation, but I eventually found the pub, chugged cold water and settled into a hammock. 

A lovely couple from the states who had just finished med school offered to share some of their chicken with me, so you will see a tiny bit of meat represented on this pescatarian's plate below. 

If you are interested in learning more about this spot, Huffington post did a nice write-up.

The world famous meal

Morning caffeine at the Farmstay - Vietnam has AMAZING coffee!

The cave trek was probably the most memorable part of the trip. Being able to step off the end of the wooden platform with a small group and experienced local guides felt so exciting. The beginning of the cave was beautiful, but the 7 kilometers we walked into is something that not many people get to see.

Selfie just before I had to put on a helmet and step off the boardwalk

Sparkling stalactites 

Our brave group of explorers

It was like being on another planet!

The trek included swimming across an underground river! Eventually we made it to the end of the cave, where a magical opening from above let in streams of sunlight. Here we settled in for a picnic before returning. It was a long day, but I highly recommend this experience if you are in this part of Vietnam.

One of the fish that lives in the cave. They have no color and no eyes!

Oh, I really hope this video works! I took my (waterproof) camera on the swim across the underground river. :)

The end of the cave. Yes, it felt magical.

So, speaking of that Vietnam history, here's an example of how things can happen, even when you don't plan a history tour. I booked a shuttle from my Farmstay to Hue. I thought this would be a tourist van, which would take us from point A to point B. As it turned out, the trip included a stop and tour at the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

On our guided tour we learned about the people who built and lived in these tunnels during the war. The central part of Vietnam is the skinniest and the US was trying to cut off communication between the north and the south, so this area was heavily bombed. This entire community (of men, women and children) sought shelter underground. Babies were born here and the community continued functioning. 

Exploring the underground tunnels...can you imagine living down here for years?

Touring through the tunnels

And this is what the coast looks like outside of the tunnels.

While it was a somber reminder of history, I'm so glad that this stop was included as part of our transport.

One thing that struck me many times on this trip, is that the Vietnamese are happy, open and welcoming. Not once did I feel like my country's past was being held against or over me. I think that says something pretty special about Vietnam's people.

Stories from Hue and Hoi An in the next posts as we continue south in Vietnam!

Blog Recommendation:

Are you interested in reading other blogs? Do you speak Spanish? Well, this one might have a limited audience, but my students and I are participating in an international blogging project this year. A teacher in the U.S. is organizing the collaboration, which includes schools from across the states, Peru, Paraguay, the Caiman Islands, and of course, Myanmar! Follow our journey of sharing stories and culture here.

Favorite TED Talk of late:

One of the questions that we all ask and hear a lot is "Where are you from?". While I'm pretty sure which country to answer that question with, if someone prompts me further I feel confused... I either need to explain a LOT, or say an answer which is inaccurate or incomplete. Taiye Selasi has an even more challenging where-are-you-from situation and she makes some important points about this question here.

Big News in Myanmar:

Maybe you have already heard, but Obama has announced that the US is ready to lift sanctions on Myanmar.

The background noise from the press in this video is insane, but it's a good clip of Aung San Su Kyi and Obama together.

You can check out the CNN clip also.

See you next week! :D

Vietnam, Part 1: Hanoi

Vietnam. There is so much to say about this country, the many different cultures that exist within its relatively small space, the contrasts that define it, its tangled past with my country and the experience of spending time there now. It's been intimidating to write about this trip, so I've decided to break it up into various posts. These entries won't even try to cover everything; I will limit myself to my experience, which is a limited experience! I spent two weeks exploring mostly central Vietnam during spring break of 2016.

As all trips do, this one began as soon as I started researching the country and became real when I booked the ticket. Some of my older family members and friends asked me about the historical places I might see and I admit that I brushed off their comments; I wasn't going on a historical site-seeing trip. I wanted to see a new country, have some outdoor adventures, try new foods and enjoy time away from school.

Although plenty from my trip will look like vacation, it is impossible to visit Vietnam and not learn about its past. While I am still no expert, all of this history does intermingle with any trip to this fascinating country, adding perspective to even the simplest plans for a holiday.

I started my trip in Hanoi. It's an easy city to fly in and out of and there are direct flights from Yangon! I spent most of my time wandering the city (my favorite way to get to know a place), drinking coffee, sampling food and I found a great yoga studio, too. 

Yoga class, vegetarian lunch and kombucha - yes!

Hanoi street at dusk

I hope the above video works for you so that you get an idea of what the traffic is like in Hanoi! It is world-famous for a reason!

Old jets outside of the war museum

City park - view from rooftop bar

I walked around the park pictured above and enjoyed a happy hour nearby. While I love all that cities have to offer, I live in another very busy city and after a few days I was ready for a change of pace.

GOAL: I am going to publish one post per week, from now until October break. My plan is to post on Tuesdays (Look Ma, this week I'm early!). That means you will get four new posts from me in the next month! Stay tuned!

My favorite food blog right now:

Simple Vegan Food Blog - it's written by a Spanish couple, but in English! They focus on what the title says, simple recipes that are vegan. Some are Spanish-inspired, which is a bonus for me. Their tortilla is amazing. I have missed eating tortilla ever since I found out I was allergic to eggs years ago.

My playlist as I trained for the Camino de Santiago (subject of a future post):

• Grimes - Art Angels
• Chvrches - Every Open Eye
• Bomba Estéreo - Amanecer 
• twenty one pilots - Blurryface

Recent Reads:

• The Space Between Us - Thrity Umrigar - this one was for my Yangon Book club and for me it was a very compelling and fast read, exploring issues of class, gender and friendship across generations in Bombay.
• Tiny Beautiful Things - Cheryl Strayed - by the author of Wild, this is a collection of her responses to an advice column that she wrote. Great stuff about love, life, relationships and Strayed's delivery always emphasizes compassion. 
• Room - Emma Donoghue - I started this book and had a hard time putting it down... finished it in just four days! There is a movie version, too, which deviates quite a bit from the plot in the second half of the book, but it is a well-done film.
• Is Everyone Hanging Out Without Me? (And Other Concerns) - Mindy Kaling - fun and funny. 
• Bluebeard - Kurt Vonnegut - I have been a Vonnegut fan since I first read Cat's Cradle in high school. This isn't one of his best novels (in my opinion), but it presents some interesting points about art, especially its longevity. 

Spring Break 2015: Taiwan!

Okay, okay, it's fair to say that I don't update my blog quite as often as many bloggers. I do take it seriously, though! I would like to do more frequent posts but many linger way too long in draft form as my perfectionist tendencies obstruct me from pushing that orange "publish" button (thanks, Dad!)... or the slow Myanmar internet makes uploading photos painful... or, real life: more traveling(!), work, friends or a combination of all of the above gets in the way. 

So here's an old story... but still a good one! Listen:

For spring break last year, which falls on Thingyan (Burmese New Year), I decided to venture to Taiwan. I had been curious about this country ever since I had a loooong layover there in 2012 on the way to Bali to get my yoga teacher certification. 

To start the red eye flight out of Yangon wasn't really long enough to get good sleep on and the layover in Hong Kong broke up the night. I was very grateful that my school's Chinese teacher was on the same flight and her friend had offered to pick us up at the airport. We zoomed in to Taipei on super modern roads and it occurred to me that I hadn't been in a developed country like this one since I'd left the US nine months earlier. My colleague's friend insisted on treating us to a multi-course seafood lunch and then they helped me get my pass to ride public transport. 

My dear Leslie had connected me with Rachael and her friends, who are teachers in Taiwan, so not only did I have a sweet place to stay in Taichung, but I also had the inside scoop on the country. With just over a week, I didn't want to run all over the island trying to see everything, so I know there are other great spots for another trip. However, I did see Taipei, Taichung, Sun Moon Lake and I found a lot of time to wander, discover art, make my way through tiny alleyways and just soak up the sun on walks (and do homework... remember this time last year I was working away on my teaching certification). A less planned and non-hectic travel pace is definitely what I was looking for on this trip.

I started my tour in Taipei, where I walked the city streets day and night, had some amazing coffees, visited lots of shops and markets and took in some of the sites. Rachael even joined me for the weekend, so I had a friend to go around with!

Street near my hostel in Taipei

Busy Taipei night scene

Taipei Temple

Dragon details on temple

Does the sky look gray to you? Taipei reminded me of the Pacific Northwest. It was rainy and gray while I was there. It's a modern city and I thought about my time in Seattle and Portland a lot while visiting.  

Me at the temple

Temple offerings

After a long weekend of shopping, walking, catching up with Rachael and only seeing a bit of Taipei (so much to see and do!), Rachael and I headed south to Taichung. We were both enrolled in Teach Now's certification program and we had Sunday evening virtual classes to log into! Rachael's roommates were waiting for us with homemade chili and her dogs greeted us with tail wags and kisses. 

After class and a sleep, I was ready to explore Taichung! The city is modern, but it has done an excellent job of integrating art and green space into its urban city spaces. 

Taichung has a lot of green space built in to the city. Love that color!

Coffee was in order and Rachael recommended the grooviest spot!

One of the coolest coffee shops I've visited - second floor made of glass.

I had homework for my course, but I also had lots of time to explore the city. I spent most of my time walking and wandering. In the evenings, I caught up with the teachers, enjoyed great vegetarian food (thank you all again for your hospitality!) and got tips for the next day. This was definitely the most challenging country that I have visited in terms of language barrier and being able to eat (I'm allergic to gluten, dairy and eggs and I don't eat meat).

Twisty tree branches in Taichung

I can't read what it says, but it is pretty!

Night market shopping

Night market food -not vegetarian friendly!

Nepalese food after exploring the Taichung night market.

One day I took a trip out to Sun Moon lake. This pretty spot has different ferry stops which allow you to take in the views, look at the temples, hike, take a gondola and just take in the ambience. 

First ferry ride of the day, coffee in hand!

the lake

View from one of my walks

Gondola ride selfie!

Path to the temple

Lots of steps to get to the top...

Entrance to the temple, elephants for dad!

A turtle picture for my sister

The view was worth the climb. :)

After a long day of exploring, I was ready to head back to my home away from home. Who wouldn't love returning to these two?

A ball of Lola

Vivi, ever hopeful, in the kitchen

Dog park near my "home" for the week

My last weekend was spent in Taipei. I visited the hills just outside the city, taking another gondola up to sample tea, walk and take in more views.

I decided to experiment with a new type of hostel: the cube. Basically you rent a sleeping cube in a room full of lots of cubes. You get a locker for your stuff, clean sheets, a shared bathroom and a place to lay your head. It was okay, but I don't know if I'd do it again...

My cube for a night

Last rainy night shot of Taipei

I hope to return to Taiwan someday and see more!

This Thingyan break is longer, just the way the holiday falls, so I have a full two weeks off of school. I'm headed to Vietnam to continue my explorations of Southeast Asia and to get some more practice trekking (Camino de Santiago, I am coming your way this June!).

In other travel news, I just purchased flights to Spain and will be there for most of June and July. Details of my trip are still coming into focus, but I am beyond excited to be returning - I don't think I have been back to visit since 2009.

These are two upcoming trips and teasers for future posts! :)

What I'm reading:

• Half of a Yellow Sun - Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie
• Siddhartha - Herman Hesse
• Human Dark with Sugar - Brenda Shaughnessy (poetry fix, thanks Y!)

Just finished:

• We Should All Be Feminists - Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie (re-reading and re-watching this one. If you haven't seen it, go here as soon as you can)
• Haunted - Chuck Palahniuk (not my favorite of his and not for the faint of heart or stomach...)