Vietnam, Part 2: Phung Nha and Vinh Moc

Like I said in Part 1, after a few days in Hanoi, I was ready for a change of pace. My friend, P, had recommended this Farmstay, near Phung Nha. Getting out of the constant noise, action and traffic was exactly what I needed. I miss the green of the Pacific Northwest and the relative closeness of so many wonderful outdoor activities near Seattle.

I hopped a very early morning flight and then was picked up by a van, making it to my Farmstay in time for breakfast, served with plenty more of that delicious coffee.

Panoramic view from my terrace...not a city in sight!

Wow, an intense and very real sign!

Sunset over the rice paddies

I had booked a cave tour, but the main "plan" was to relax. The Farmstay has an onsite restaurant and bar, small pool, loads of lounge chairs, bikes and plenty of information about the area. I spent a lot of time reading, lounging by the pool and just hanging out.

The Farmstay also organizes movie nights, projecting films about Vietnam on a big screen outside. The films they cycle through are: The Quiet American, Heaven and Earth and Good Morning, Vietnam. I saw The Quiet American while I was there. 

One excursion involved an "easy" bike ride to the Pub with Cold Beer. This place is a local and international legend; they have a simple menu and the main, er, course is the chicken, which you get to pick out, have killed and then prepared for you. This free range fowl is served up with sautéed local greens, peanut sauce and rice (of course!). 

The ride was not easy, short, relaxing or cool. The day boiled, my borrowed bike lacked any gears and it felt more like torture than vacation, but I eventually found the pub, chugged cold water and settled into a hammock. 

A lovely couple from the states who had just finished med school offered to share some of their chicken with me, so you will see a tiny bit of meat represented on this pescatarian's plate below. 

If you are interested in learning more about this spot, Huffington post did a nice write-up.

The world famous meal

Morning caffeine at the Farmstay - Vietnam has AMAZING coffee!

The cave trek was probably the most memorable part of the trip. Being able to step off the end of the wooden platform with a small group and experienced local guides felt so exciting. The beginning of the cave was beautiful, but the 7 kilometers we walked into is something that not many people get to see.

Selfie just before I had to put on a helmet and step off the boardwalk

Sparkling stalactites 

Our brave group of explorers

It was like being on another planet!

The trek included swimming across an underground river! Eventually we made it to the end of the cave, where a magical opening from above let in streams of sunlight. Here we settled in for a picnic before returning. It was a long day, but I highly recommend this experience if you are in this part of Vietnam.

One of the fish that lives in the cave. They have no color and no eyes!

Oh, I really hope this video works! I took my (waterproof) camera on the swim across the underground river. :)

The end of the cave. Yes, it felt magical.

So, speaking of that Vietnam history, here's an example of how things can happen, even when you don't plan a history tour. I booked a shuttle from my Farmstay to Hue. I thought this would be a tourist van, which would take us from point A to point B. As it turned out, the trip included a stop and tour at the Vinh Moc Tunnels.

On our guided tour we learned about the people who built and lived in these tunnels during the war. The central part of Vietnam is the skinniest and the US was trying to cut off communication between the north and the south, so this area was heavily bombed. This entire community (of men, women and children) sought shelter underground. Babies were born here and the community continued functioning. 

Exploring the underground tunnels...can you imagine living down here for years?

Touring through the tunnels

And this is what the coast looks like outside of the tunnels.

While it was a somber reminder of history, I'm so glad that this stop was included as part of our transport.

One thing that struck me many times on this trip, is that the Vietnamese are happy, open and welcoming. Not once did I feel like my country's past was being held against or over me. I think that says something pretty special about Vietnam's people.

Stories from Hue and Hoi An in the next posts as we continue south in Vietnam!

Blog Recommendation:

Are you interested in reading other blogs? Do you speak Spanish? Well, this one might have a limited audience, but my students and I are participating in an international blogging project this year. A teacher in the U.S. is organizing the collaboration, which includes schools from across the states, Peru, Paraguay, the Caiman Islands, and of course, Myanmar! Follow our journey of sharing stories and culture here.

Favorite TED Talk of late:

One of the questions that we all ask and hear a lot is "Where are you from?". While I'm pretty sure which country to answer that question with, if someone prompts me further I feel confused... I either need to explain a LOT, or say an answer which is inaccurate or incomplete. Taiye Selasi has an even more challenging where-are-you-from situation and she makes some important points about this question here.

Big News in Myanmar:

Maybe you have already heard, but Obama has announced that the US is ready to lift sanctions on Myanmar.

The background noise from the press in this video is insane, but it's a good clip of Aung San Su Kyi and Obama together.

You can check out the CNN clip also.

See you next week! :D