Day 32: O Cádavo - Lugo

Today my Italian "uncle," R, woke me up at 5:52. And I wasn't mad at him. ;) The plan was: get up and out EARLY in order to cover the 30 k to Lugo (no options for breaking up this stage) so that we could see and enjoy the city. And it is in its annual fiesta, with music, dance and more! I had never heard of it before the Primitivo, but, wow, it's worth seeing! I wish I would have had more time here. 

Back to the morning... G (Argentina), C (Italy), R (Italy) and I headed out at 7. Pitch dark, totally nighttime. R was the only one with a headlamp, so we followed him like an angel, looking for shells, getting a little confused, but finding the way! And when the sunrise colors came, they were amazing. 

After a couple hours of walking, we arrived in Castroverde, our coffee and second breakfast stop. Learn from the Spanish! This is how they do it!

Here's what one Italian ordered. No bread or milk for me, but how beautiful!!

Walking continued; we needed to make time. 

Notice the Santiago image below the cross. 

It's definitely fall here. 

It was a long walking day. There weren't any intense hills, but doing 30 k with a full backpack does its toll on your body. But, I saw a face in a tree:

And a star in a log:

You notice things on the Camino that you probably miss in normal life. But they are always there. :)

Back to Lugo; it seems like a great town. I certainly haven't done it justice, but I do walk out tomorrow. My friends and I wandered, saw an artisan market, had a beverage, visited the cathedral and had a delicious dinner. 

There's some beautiful music playing, but our albergue has a curfew, so I'm back here now. Pilgrim life is not party life. 
We passed the 100 k marker today; Santiago is 4-5 days away and the many Caminos join in 2 days, which will certainly result in a different vibe. I have super-mixed feelings of relief, excitement and already nostalgia for the simplicity of the Camino days once I return to "normal" life. I'll soak in all I can over the next few days and if my body allows, I'll extend my walk to the coast. More on that later! Buenas noches. 

Kilometers walked: 29.51 (Fitbit), 42.50 (Buen Camino app), 29.5 (gronze.com). The app is definitely way off today, but I feel pretty sure I did 30k. :)

Day 31: A Fonsagrada - O Cádavo

To finish the night before... mass was lovely. The priest made a special effort to include the pilgrims and his blessing at the end was heartfelt. He even took our picture afterwards. We are Italy, Germany, Spain, France and the USA. 

My blogger app let me down yesterday... I was uploading my post and somehow it disappeared. This has never happened before; if internet is slow, it saves as offline. Anyway, this is a recreation in brief of yesterday. 

I slept well and left at 8am with the church bells. I saw magical rest stops:

Misty forests and wise trees:

Seas of clouds and windmills:

A dog that looked like a plump Bert:

Traditional houses:

And LOTS of ups and downs, ups and downs, ups and downs!!! It was a hilly day. 

But then there are views like this and you forget about the panting and pain. Or you don't care. ;)

And there are smiles like these at a shared dinner at the albergue. :D

It's been one month since I left Madrid and started this locura... I mean adventure! ;) I can't wait to see what the next day brings!!!

Kilometers walked: 26.38 (Fitbit), 31.33 (Buen Camino app), 24.3 (gronze.com).

Day 30: Grandas de Salime - A Fonsagrada

After an on-again, off-again night's sleep, I decided it was time to get up just after 6. I made a green tea at the albergue, ate a nectarine and went through the now very familiar routine of packing my backpack. Once again I left in the misty night, but the "rain" wasn't even falling hard enough to warrant a jacket or backpack cover. After the lights of town ended I used my phone flashlight to track the shells. Sunrise has changed by almost an hour since I started walking. A headlamp would be a good thing to bring next time... (In June and July it's not necessary as the days are so long.) When it did get light I could see the tunnel-y, forest-y path. 

I love the stone houses here. 

I'm always impressed by how quickly the landscape can change - we are only moving on foot after all. 

And there are those highway crossings... often with no cars in sight. It can feel quite eerie. 

The big accomplishment of today was crossing from Asturias into Galicia. The path followed a long and steep climb, but my legs carried me up, over the top, I said adiós to Asturias and ¡HOLA! to Galicia. Santiago is in Galicia; this feels like progress! 

As I walked down the mountain I considered all that I still wanted to do on this Camino. Now is when. 

The pilgrim news is that the shell markers flip directions in Galicia. The top of the shell points the way (before it was usually the bottom). Can you see what I mean?

There were more amazing views but there hadn't been more than a water fountain all day. Good thing I am good at squirreling away snacks. 

I think every single pilgrim stopped at this bar/restaurant about 6k from A Fonsagrada for some kind of nourishment. Here's mine. Salad (€6), water (no charge).

It was a sunny afternoon as I set back off and I talked to my mom while the connection held. Then it was time for the final intense climb into town. I arrived hot, sweaty and happy to join many of my tribe members at the albergue. Showers, laundry and resting is usually the order of business and today was the same. B and I splurged on washer and dryer cycles so the treat of today was no hand washing!

A quick trip to the supermarket is providing my dinner (garbanzos with spinach), fruit for tomorrow and some gluten free breadsticks. The tentative plan for tonight is to attend the pilgrim's mass at 8. Folks are rallying to go out for traditional Galician fare after, but I'm not sure that will be in this pilgrim's plan tonight. 

Kilometers walked: 25.16 (Fitbit), 25.33 (Buen Camino app), 25.2 (gronze.com). Pretty nice agreement today. :)

Day 29: Berducedo - Grandas de Salime

I slept great in my little room and headed out just before dawn with B, from Oregon. The misty rain felt refreshing and the black sky turned dark blue and then lighter still. We carefully followed the shells. 

We settled into our own paces and I walked ahead. We met again at a home in La Mesa, the family opened it up to pilgrims for breakfast and coffee in exchange for a donation. This kind of generosity is common on the Camino. The second cup of strong coffee helped propel me up a hill and soon there was a diversion. My app recommended I take it, so I did. I felt like I was looking down at a sea of clouds. 

Somehow I caught up with M (or she caught up with me?) and we walked together for a bit. She took this shot of me!

There are very hard parts of walking each day. The downhill today was long and brutal. The beauty of the Primitivo is you get distracted by how amazing your surroundings are! I feel so fortunate to be here. 

From the top I could see a dam below and the path slowly snaked its way down. 

I walked over it!

And the Camino took us back up... The sun contributed its part - gorgeous light sparkling through the leaves to the shade or an extra hot challenge boiling down... depending on which section of the path you were on. ;)

The beauty of fall is here on the Primitivo. 

I guess I should get to the big decision of today. Last night the family/tribe/group of us that had been coinciding called ahead to reserve in Castro. I arrived here just about 3, hot, tired and ready to rest (and still 5-8 k from Castro depending which map you look at). I decided to stay. It was a tough call because I will miss my friends, but one of the most important lessons (to me) of the Camino is that we all must walk our own way. I decided to stay in this lovely town and I made new friends from France and Italy. We are all cooking and sharing dinner (well, M, the Italian is taking charge, but how perfect that there will be gluten-free vegan pasta?). I helped prep some veggies. 

I also met another gluten-free blogger from France. Check out her voyage on the Camino del Norte and then Primitivo here: https://www.myatlas.com/colinejardin/go-to-camino-del-norte

It's a nice, clean and modern albergue and I know I made the right call to have a shorter day today. I hope I'll see old friends and stay in touch with new ones tomorrow. 

Kilometers walked: 25.54 (Fitbit), 20.08 (Buen Camino app). This time Fitbit wins! I read that the diversion I took added 4 k.  

Day 28: Campiello - Berducedo

Sleep is important. M says that your rest the night before determines the quality of your walk the next day. I agree. I had great sleep last night and today was amazing. It was one of my top Camino days so far. 

There was an important decision on today's route: La Pola or Hospitales. I learned that neither is the more authentic or original route, but that both are Primitivo routes. Back in the day pilgrims tended to take La Pola in winter or bad weather (it doesn't climb as high) and Hospitales in the summer (it is more intense in ups and downs, but shaves off a few k). When the Primitivo was first being walked pilgrims sometimes got lost on the Hospitales route (and some died... notice how I am telling mom and dad this now, after I've done it...Hi guys!!!) or were robbed. Even now, it's not recommended to take this route in bad weather and even on nice days you should go with a buddy. Good thing I have a Primitivo family. :) We organized, exchanged phone numbers and looked after each other throughout the day. We are from Spain, Italy, Argentina, Canada and the US. 

Alfonso II ordered that the hospitals be built so he pilgrims would have safe stopovers, though now there are only ruins left. Hospitales is probably the most famous part of the Primitivo. One seasoned pilgrim told me, "for me, walking the Primitivo means taking Hospitales." 

I would say it's the Primitivo's crown jewel, but also considered by some to be its thorn, since it is long and there are considerable climbs up and steep descents. It's other feature is that there are really no services all day, so you must carry all your own food and water (remember that the Camino Francés is known for its frequent and abundant services). 

It was a long day. I was intimidated before I even began. I am quite confident in my ability to research, write, teach, speak...to be determined, and I guess it's that last one I am tapping on days like today. 

(My friends approach me at a rest stop.)

Gorgeous and more gorgeous. 

Below: the "main" street of one "town." Note the chickens. 

Sometimes I can't believe I am here. It's fascinating to watch the scenery change over the course of the day. 

I arrived at about 5:15, again another long day. I was happily greeted by family members and the special news of today is that I have my own room! 

Today completes week FOUR on the Camino and I have shared a room every single night since I began. I splurged on this luxury single for €20. I have sheets! And towels! And a key to my very own space!!! I think I deserve it. :) Here's to a good night's sleep and another epic day tomorrow. 

Kilometers walked: 28.64 (Fitbit), 31.42 (Buen Camino app). I don't have the numbers on how much we climbed...but a lot!!!

Day 27: Bodenaya - Campiello

Despite the super groovy vibes, I didn't sleep well last night. Worries danced in my brain as I lay in bed (yes, that can happen even on the Camino), I had weird dreams, I woke up in the middle of the night and even when David (our hospitalero) woke us up with gentle music and the sweet smell of fresh coffee, I didn't feel so fresh myself. Coffee and conversation helped. 

David is a super-hospitalero and had washed, dried and folded all of our clothes for us. 

I hugged David and said goodbye to this sweet place. 

It was the first rainy day in quite awhile and the first water I had seen on the Primitivo. Squish-squash as I went through the mud, rain jacket on and rain cover on my backpack. The mist made the mountains look pretty magical. There is a reason everything is all green!

Most of the path was okay, but some parts were quite muddy. Check out the mud and mushrooms here. 

I stopped to dry out and warm up with a tea in Tineo. I considered staying, but M, a lively and fast-walking woman from Madrid told me to move on!

Acorns underfoot. 

Wildflowers:

After the enchanted forest section of the walk, I was back in fields, passing cows. I had a snack sitting on a big, flat rock in the middle of the Camino and soaked in the sun (now out) and view. I felt like I was in a milk commercial (most of Spain's milk comes from this region of Spain).

I arrived at about 4... earlier than the last couple of days, but not really early. Oh well. I still had some time to rest, write and gear up for tomorrow. It's going to be another BIG day!

Kilometers walked: 26.41 (Fitbit), 25.37 (Buen Camino app). Some guidebooks quote 27...