The morning began misty and magical. Galicia is truly a beautiful part of Spain. Visit!
Many of the pilgrims were getting late stars after the long previous day. After coffee in Olveiroa the Camino ascended and the geography changed.
It was a rural morning until the small town of Hospital (I didn’t see any hospital ruins). One restaurant before the next 14 k meant second coffee and a snack.
Then the choice came! The route splits towards two coastal towns.
I had decided to head to Finisterre first and that’s all that E had time for, so we went left!
The Camino winds through forests, offering stunning views.
Even though we are near the end, it seems that most pilgrims prefer to stay in the moment and not venture too far into conversations of post-Camino life. I have a few new or potential ideas, but it’s not as if it’s all gotten figured out in the last 40-ish days.
The moment that the sea came into view was pretty special. A steep downhill brings you into the town of Cee (I love this name). The start of the town isn’t so pretty; there is a big factory, but then you arrive to the center and there is some charm. Another pilgrim told us his albwrgue was full, so with a last push of energy we walked on and found space right on the edge of Cee and Corcubión. By the sea!
After a rest, we found seafood for dinner and had a wander around - I put my feet in the water and it wasn’t too cold.
Tomorrow: Finisterre, aka, the end of the world!
Kilometers walked: 22.72 (Fitbit), 23 (Guidebook from the pilgrim office in Santiago), 23,6 (gronze.com).
A lucky breakfast of gluten free toast (!) and an americano and I left the Albergue ready for the day. E and I passed the historic section of town...
And decided to take the alternate route that passed by the river (and would add 3 k to the day). It was gorgeous!
The signs continued guiding the way:
And although there were some long sections of asphalt, there were also some amazing views and countryside.
The day started to feel long when it was 3 and there were still 8?, 11? kilometers to the end of the etapa (stage) recommended in the guides. But there was still a little mountain to climb, descend, snake around and then pass by.
We saw an albergue at the bridge a few k before town and decided to call it a day (it was after 5!). Dinner was caldo gallego at the albergue’s restaurant. I’m looking forward to a shorter day tomorrow!
Kilometers walked: 25.96 (Fitbit), 34.4 (Guidebook from the pilgrim office in Santiago), 33,6 (gronze.com).
Today was a welcome return to walking. Although I didn’t sleep great, I was up at 7:15 and out before 8. The cool morning air felt nice and I decided to postpone coffee. I almost went down the wrong street (trying to follow a pen line drawn on a map), but a friendly stranger interrupted me and pointed me in the correct direction. This is what the early morning street looked like.
After that is was easy! There were lots of markers. Familiar faces and some new signs too.
I used my phone light a little and followed the way. Today is a holiday in Spain and the towns I passed had nothing open. Finally, there was a coffee shop that just about every pilgrim stopped into. They even offered a new credencial for the Finisterre/Muxia walk, good thing as my other one only had 3 spaces left.
E also stopped for second breakfast and we walked together, doing some uphill for awhile, but breaking to take in the scenery too. Here’s going into Ponte Maceira:
The famous bridge the town is named for.
We arrived to Negreira and heard from another pilgrim that the Municipal Albergue was full so we are staying in a private tonight. The town is very quiet. The Camino guide says that Hemingway mentioned this town in For Whom The Bells Toll, but I haven’t seen any signs of him here!
There is a good Santiago statue! I like the shoe addition. :)
After a little rest time and laundry I had a wander in town. Dinner at the albergue’s restaurant was the option and it’s bedtime now; tomorrow is going to be a longer day kilometers-wise. Buenas noches to an absolutely lovely day back on the Camino.
Kilometers walked: 21.58 (Fitbit), 21 (Guidebook from the pilgrim office in Santiago), 20.6 (gronze.com). It was a nice, easy transition day back into walking.
My second full day in Santiago was much more restful than the first and it was also filled with joy, chance encounters and bittersweet goodbyes. First things first, I slept in! I lounged in bed, stretched, took my time and then packed up my backpack (I had to switch hostals) and went out to coffee. Over a soy milk café con leche, I worked on yesterday’s blog entry and looked up some information for my next 3-4 day Camino to the Galician coast. I’m looking at about 90 k to Finisterre and then another 30 to Muxia.
I enjoyed a gentle wander through town and was glad not to be one of the tourists in line for the cathedral.
I met Ch after she attended mass and we had a celebratory lunch...
We are camino sisters. We started walking the same day (September 5) and met just the second day, not far outside Roncesvalles. Here we are with Compostela certificates in hand.
I had a little more time to wander, I switched accommodations and had a little rest.
Then I met E for some plaza people watching and now I’m tucked in for an early bedtime; I’ve got to transition back to pilgrim time!
Kilometers walked: 8.51 (Fitbit). Hardly a Camino day, but there it is!
A late night of celebrating and a small, but short sleep in my sweet single room and my internal pilgrim alarm clock kicked in. I was up and out before 8, not because I didn’t want to lounge in bed, but because a few of us had decided the best strategy in dealing with the Compostela line was to arrive early. The office didn’t even open until 8. I got there at 7:51. This is what I saw.
I joined P (Madrid) and H (Canada) in line and D (Barcelona) was not far behind me.
So, what is the Compostela? It’s an official certificate stating that you did the Camino and you can also pay a small fee (€3) and they will personalize it, writing your start date, point of departure and kilometers walked. I knew that I had some explaining to do, since I started the Francés and then jumped to the Primitivo, but it hardly seemed complicated or irregular... two hours later when my turn came, the clerks had other ideas. My Camino didn’t fit their idea of what the Camino is and despite my explanation and gentle request to represent what I had actually done, they would not write my France departure point, nor any of the kilometers walked on the French route (around 500) on the certificate. I almost lost it in the office, but I’ve lived in Asia long enough to know that strong emotions get you nowhere in terms of requests. I also had this voice in my head telling me that it was all ridiculous; my reasons for doing the Camino are many and not a single one has anything to do with a piece of paper. My friends hugged me and agreed as we left the office. Emotions are all just below the surface after a month of walking and your arrival to the destination.
(Above - Santiago in the pilgrim’s office chapel)
We went out for coffee, I said “see you later” and “Buen Camino” to H and P and we parted. I picked up a couple of grocery and toiletry items and returned to my room for a few minutes of rest.
Then, it was time to head to the cathedral for mass. Santiago is a huge tourist destination and pilgrim’s mass is held twice a day. I scooted into line next to M (South Korea), had my bag checked by security and filed in. There were no seats left and pilgrims stood at the back and sides and sat on the floor. I squeezed in next to a stone column and realized I was right next to R and R (Málaga)... it’s funny how the Camino keeps delivering you to certain people. :)
The big event of the Santiago mass is the botafumeiro, a huge metal ball filled with incense that is swung to purify the pilgrims and cover up their smell. It’s quite the task as it’s heavy (62 kg empty and about 40 kg of incense is added) and all the incense required is expensive.
I took a few videos, but this one is better:
We also waited in line to hug the Santiago statue.
And visit his tomb.
Lunch and more time with friends was next. I had texted with K to surprise D and E (they didn’t know she was back in Santiago after visiting the coast).
I opted for coffee instead of a siesta so that I could shop, wander and hang out with D since he was returning the next day.
I then met Ch in the plaza and exchanged a few quick stories.
About this time I was feeling physically and emotionally spent... I made the call to stay one more night and day in Santiago and postpone my epilogue walk to the coast (More soon! You didn’t think I was done walking, did you?!?).
Another brief rest in the room and I met friends for drinks, tapas, dinners and goodbyes. More on Santiago and the next Camino tomorrow. :)
Do you want to see what a pilgrim arrival to Santiago looks like? You can! Check out the webcam at the link below. The “Praza de Obradoiro” is the arrival point in front of the cathedral.
I woke up a little after 6 after sleeping hard and made tea with the kettle in my room. A few gluten free cookies later and I was on my way out!
The stars, moon and my iPhone flashlight guided me until it became light. I passed O Pedrouzo and walked on...
I was hoping to surprise a few friends I had met on the French route earlier. I had to stop for a tea and water refill... and I saw them! We were all surprised - they to see me (I told them I was starting late) and me since I didn’t think I would catch up with them so soon. The other surprise was that I also saw, C, the Texan, who I had walked with for much of my first day over the Pyrenees. It was a great reunion!
A lot of the Camino follows the highway into Santiago on this day, but there are also some nice spots.
There are signs of fall.
It also passes the airport.
Despite meeting up with friends and a busy trail, I also had some solo time.
I arrived to Monte de Gozo with D and E, my two Spanish friends from way back on the Francés and it felt right to descend into the city with them. We took an alternative route into the city, which gave us an extra 3k to chat, reflect and soak in the moment. ;)
It’s a hard feeling to capture, the arrival to Santiago, and it’s a long arrival, outskirts, modern buildings and finally the historic center. This stone is the last step.
It’s a time of happiness, reunions, disbelief and much more.
A late lunch was the next activity, then we all wandered off to our albergues or pensions to shower and rest before an evening meet up. I was stoked to have my own small room and bathroom... first time in 36 days!!!
And a view!
More photos, food and celebrating followed. At this table, there are pilgrims from both Caminos, from South Korea, Spain, Russia and the USA.
Primitivo friends (France, Canada, Spain, USA):
There’s also a sadness, or sensation of closing, and though we aren’t talking about it yet, goodbyes are coming soon. Some friends leave as early as tomorrow, some to go home, others to travel Europe, some to continue walking to Finisterre and/or Muxia. I’m leaning towards the last option. :)
Kilometers walked: 24.62 (Fitbit), 25.13 (Buen Camino app). D, a Canadian I shared dinner with last night, explained that walking with poles messes up the step count... that explains a lot of inconsistencies!
Despite a lovely, quiet room, I didn’t sleep a lot. I stretched and got out of bed as I heard the others in my room get ready. I had breakfast with M, a Korean girl I had met weeks ago on the French route (!) and then made my way out of town. It was still darkish as I turned to look back. You can see the stream of pilgrims... are they tired? Rested? Ready? Hungover? Excited? Bored?
And more amazing sunrise colors. :)
I soon ran into B, from Oregon and we chatted and met up with a few other family members at a coffee stop. The way felt busier, but not overly crowded. I had plenty of alone time and saw lots of Camino with no one else on it.
And landscapes like this.
Here I am in Ribadoso; a nice Basque man took my picture after we talked and walked for a bit.
(I stayed in this village last year.)
But, there were also signs that we are on a more populated trail. Whoa!
I made it farther than I thought, but not as far as some of my friends. I’m in a tiny village called Brea. A family here runs a little pension. I’m in a room for 4, but there are only 3 of us. There are a few other guests in private rooms.
The facilities include gracious hospitality, a garden, swimming pool (!!!) and home-cooked dinner. This was some of the best food I’ve had on the Camino.
News: I booked a small hotel and committed to arriving to Santiago tomorrow. Tomorrow! More on that... tomorrow.
Kilometers walked: 26.66 (Fitbit), 44.49 (Buen Camino app, another bug, though 44 would be hardcore!).
