Day 33: Lugo - San Román da Retorta

It was a quiet albergue last night... I think everyone was worn out from the long day to get to Lugo. I didn't hear any early packers or alarms, though I'm sure there were a few. I rolled out of my top bunk about 7 and was enjoying this splendid creation an hour later. Yay for soy milk!

I headed out with 6 of my friends; it took me awhile to feel awake despite the caffeine and it took us awhile to leve the city behind. 

Finding the way out of Lugo:

The landscape is changing. There are less mountains and it is less wild. Today we paralleled the road, or even walked on it, often. There is more farmland. 

Pilgrim path along the road:

But, we go up and down rolly hills in forests still as well. 

And the road sections are pretty easy on the eyes too. 

Today was a shorter day and I was happy to reach "town."

There is a church, cemetery and two albergues here. One of the albergues has a small bar/restaurant. Here's what the municipal albergue looks like. It has just 12 Cbeds and is full tonight. 

I learned how to pan roast the chestnuts that we find on the Camino tonight. They are delicious!

We are at the 80 k (to Santiago) mark. I can't believe it is that close. I can already feel the environment changing. There are new walkers on the path and it feels a bit more party than pilgrimage. Doing 100 k is the minimum required to earn the Compostela certificate and many choose to do the last 100 arriving to Santiago (starting from Lugo on the Primitivo or starting from Sarria on the Francés). 

Tomorrow the French and Primitivo paths join, so there will be a lot more pilgrims. I'll let you know how it all works out. 

Kilometers walked: 19.19 (Fitbit), 19.18 (Buen Camino app). I think this was my lightest day on the Primitivo yet. It felt good to have some extra rest and chill time. :)

Day 32: O Cádavo - Lugo

Today my Italian "uncle," R, woke me up at 5:52. And I wasn't mad at him. ;) The plan was: get up and out EARLY in order to cover the 30 k to Lugo (no options for breaking up this stage) so that we could see and enjoy the city. And it is in its annual fiesta, with music, dance and more! I had never heard of it before the Primitivo, but, wow, it's worth seeing! I wish I would have had more time here. 

Back to the morning... G (Argentina), C (Italy), R (Italy) and I headed out at 7. Pitch dark, totally nighttime. R was the only one with a headlamp, so we followed him like an angel, looking for shells, getting a little confused, but finding the way! And when the sunrise colors came, they were amazing. 

After a couple hours of walking, we arrived in Castroverde, our coffee and second breakfast stop. Learn from the Spanish! This is how they do it!

Here's what one Italian ordered. No bread or milk for me, but how beautiful!!

Walking continued; we needed to make time. 

Notice the Santiago image below the cross. 

It's definitely fall here. 

It was a long walking day. There weren't any intense hills, but doing 30 k with a full backpack does its toll on your body. But, I saw a face in a tree:

And a star in a log:

You notice things on the Camino that you probably miss in normal life. But they are always there. :)

Back to Lugo; it seems like a great town. I certainly haven't done it justice, but I do walk out tomorrow. My friends and I wandered, saw an artisan market, had a beverage, visited the cathedral and had a delicious dinner. 

There's some beautiful music playing, but our albergue has a curfew, so I'm back here now. Pilgrim life is not party life. 
We passed the 100 k marker today; Santiago is 4-5 days away and the many Caminos join in 2 days, which will certainly result in a different vibe. I have super-mixed feelings of relief, excitement and already nostalgia for the simplicity of the Camino days once I return to "normal" life. I'll soak in all I can over the next few days and if my body allows, I'll extend my walk to the coast. More on that later! Buenas noches. 

Kilometers walked: 29.51 (Fitbit), 42.50 (Buen Camino app), 29.5 (gronze.com). The app is definitely way off today, but I feel pretty sure I did 30k. :)