Day 43: Finisterre - Lires

I fell asleep and woke up to one of the best sounds in the world: the rolling waves. My room with a view:

It seems that my pilgrim days keep starting later and later... breakfast at the hotel, a stop at the pharmacy and a little shopping at the supermarket all happened before I began the last leg of this Camino: Finisterre - Muxia. I started to make my way out of town. 

Oh, and I also had to find the Camino. As I’ve said before, it can be tricky to catch the route as you leave a town or city. And the sun and sea and sky can be distracting...

The extra challenge this time is that some pilgrims walk Finisterre - Muxia like I am and others do it in reverse. Locals were friendly when I asked directions and I followed their cues until I saw the signs. Does this one count?

Here we go!

And there are moments when arrows indicate both directions! Pay attention!

The walk today was beautiful, quaint country roads, forests with lots of eucaliptis and plenty of panoramic views of the sea. 

Wow. 

I had started late and I took a rest stop at one of those cute and quirky places you only find on the Camino. 

I decided to stop in Lires today, dividing my Camino in half and taking one more day to arrive to Muxia. Some pilgrims do it in one day, but that’s 29-33 k, depending on which guide you believe. ;)

Below: arriving to Lires. 

The albergue is modern and has an ocean view!

Tomorrow really will be my last day of walking the Camino. I have mixed feelings about transitioning into post-Camino life - I’ve been here a long time; it’s home. But, I also feel ready for new adventures, my body is ready to relax (I took a nap again today!) and all my Camino friends and family have moved on. Some were long goodbyes, some were goodbyes that we didn’t realize were the last goodbyes and there are a few to whom I didn’t get the chance to say goodbye. Two quotes I remembered while walking today, from very different artists, were: “Be good with goodbyes” (AWOLNATION) and “Accept loss forever” (Jack Kerouac). They seem to be saying the same thing. Change is the only constant. After spending some time making train and air bnb reservations this afternoon, I know I also have some sweet reunions coming soon. 

Kilometers walked: 15.05 (Fitbit), 13.3 (Guidebook from the pilgrim office in Santiago). 

Day 42: Cee/Corcubión - Finisterre

The morning light shined down on Corcubión and I made my way after fruit and a soy milk coffee. 

And like always, I followed the shells. 

There was some steep uphill to start, but it soon evened out and the Camino passed through small seaside towns. 

I didn’t feel a hurry since there were only 14 k to Finisterre. I had a snack and watched the sea for awhile mid-morning. Once again, it proved amazing to come around a turn and see the sea! And Finisterre!

The way takes you down and the last 3 k are on, or along the beach. Which way did I choose? 

I did bathe my feet in the sea, though tradition would dictate that I go all the way in. Let’s see, there’s still time and the water isn’t as cold as I imagined!

And my end of the world victory shot!

Walking along the water feels like a very appropriate end to my pilgrimage. 

I dropped my backpack at the hotel (!), had a Nepalese veggie curry, wandered the town and queued for my Finisterre Compostela certificate. 

After a long nap it was time to climb the 3 k to the lighthouse for sunset. I ran into C, who I had met back on the Primitivo. 

It was a little cloudy and very windy, but there were plenty of tourists and pilgrims taking in the view at the end of the world. 

With the lighthouse:

And kilometer 0!!!

I did not, nor did I see, any pilgrims burning their clothes. It is tradition to do this as purification and to step forward into a new chapter of your life. There are lots of signs saying don’t start fires. As the daughter and sister of firefighters, this is one rule that seemed sensible to follow. ;) hi, Dad!

Kilometers walked: 21.81 (Fitbit), 14 (Guidebook from the pilgrim office in Santiago), 13,4 (gronze.com). Fitbit is ahead today... remember I did wander around town and do 3k each way to the lighthouse.